Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at finally putting a set of replacement front speakers in, and want to keep a tight budget.

I don't want to spend more than about $180-200 on the fronts, so I'm leaning towards the Jaycar Kevlar 6.5" Splits. I've got 2 channels on a Response 4x100wrms amp to run them off, so they'll have plenty of power. I'm not interested in spending $500 on Focals (although it would no doubt sound great).

I haven't found much feedback about them other than people saying they're good for the money. Given that I'm not running a top of the line amp etc, does this sound like a good way to go in that price bracket? (they sound decent to me)

Alternatives are things like the Pioneer TS-A1670S or the TS-C1602 maybe. I'm thinking the Response are probably the nicest splits for under $200 though?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56658-jaycar-splits/
Share on other sites

that or the some hertz splits.

ur amp is decent..matches the speakers well...shouldnt be that much of an issue for most speakers u choose...decent amount of power..

i'd prefer the hertz tho...

quality will improve with like $50 of sound deadener if possible...but up to u on what u want to acheive (:

good luck

tell us how it sounds

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56658-jaycar-splits/#findComment-1099665
Share on other sites

i answered a PM like this just yesterday

yeah they are decent etc. but they can he bought for like $150 from what i remember.. for another 30 or so $$ you can get some pheonix gold octane r splits which are very decent as well. good bright sound

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56658-jaycar-splits/#findComment-1100185
Share on other sites

I bought them and have now put them in, they're certainly crisp and bright sounding, with the 6x9s in the rear it all sounds very full and balanced now. For a while I was dissappointed with the extreme lack of bass coming from them, but discovered I had the amp high pass filtering (and adding plenty noise in the process - a think they're known for a shitty preamp stage) - oops.

$500 Pioneer DEH-P6450

$350 Response 4x100 amp (on special)

$200 JL Audio txi690

$170 splits

$60 cables/rcas

For a total cost of about $1300, am quite happy with the sound. Probably should have bought a better 4x50w amp for maybe $450, but this thing might be good for subs at some stage in the future.

Just put on a hacked RCA for aux input on the p-bus on the head unit too, will try an iPod tonight...

(that was my PM NO_RSPECT)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56658-jaycar-splits/#findComment-1100214
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...