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kabab Experienced

kabab

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by dbasteve

I am going to scream!..:D

Kabab,  

Do you have the M Spec R32 GTS?

If so can you tell me if it uses the Nissan 4 Piston caliper with DB1170 pads?

I think this disc could be the 296mm x 30mm disc as per the R33 GTSt

Thanks

Okay okay sorry...

I have a M Spec R32 gts-t all i know is when i get bendix ultimate pads they are the same model as the 300zx TT pads and they are 4 Piston calipers.

I have no idea on the size of the disc's if you like i can bring my car down for you guys to look at.

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dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

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Posted
Originally posted by dbasteve

Hmmmm!  Confusion.:)  

The R32 GTR = 32mm   DBA 926

The R33 GTSt = 30mm  DBA 9?? (Still Waiting)

Fatz is your car a GTR or GTSt? I thought it was a GTSt but your signature says R32 GTR.

Our guy that does the catalogue entries is banging his head on the floor because of these Skylines.

Part Number for the 30mm disc will be DBA 963.

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dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

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Posted
Originally posted by red900ss

Steve the dba catalogue states :

R33 GTS Single Turbo 2.5L 8/93 - 7/98

F 926 296mm Dia, Min thickness 30mm, New 32mm

same as the R32 GT-R.

So the R33 GTS25t definately had 30mm discs?

We have found 3 different rotors for the R33 GTS worldwide. I think the catalogue needs some fine tuning too.

The popular R33 GTS in Australia appears to have the 296mm x 30mm disc with a Min.th of 28mm.

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  • 2 weeks later...
dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

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Posted
Originally posted by Brody

What are the chances or organising a group buy for this? :D

Im interested in either the club spec rotors (if they make them for a r32 gtst) or the kpaw slotted when they're ment to be released in jan/feb?

From the looks of it im sure there'd be alot of ppl interested...

I will talk to some people about it and the minimum order requirements. There was a group buy organised in Melb with the WRX club which went well, so it is possible.

Steve

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slip Mentor

slip

Posted
Posted

steve are you able to help with a possible upgrade for the rear of my Australian R31? I already have slotted undrilled 909's on order for the front. Ive never locked the rears so i think 1. they have issues and 2. they are going to be pissweak compared to the new fronts. single piston solid rotor bah.

can we look at putting r32 rear rotors or even my current front rotors on? Dont know if R32 GTS-T rear callipers will bolt on.

any suggestions?

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dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

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Originally posted by slip

steve are you able to help with a possible upgrade for the rear of my Australian R31?  I already have slotted undrilled 909's on order for the front.  Ive never locked the rears so i think 1. they have issues and 2. they are going to be pissweak compared to the new fronts.  single piston solid rotor bah.

can we look at putting r32 rear rotors or even my current front rotors on?  Dont know if R32 GTS-T rear callipers will bolt on.

any suggestions?

A vented rear rotor like the R32 will perform better especially with a good rigid caliper. I am not aware of any success stories with rear upgrades on your car but this doesn't mean it hasn't been done. If you can check out the caliper issues I have put in an order for some undrilled DBA 908's for stock that you can use if it looks O.K.

Steve

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Brody Experienced

Brody

Posted
Posted

Hey Steve,

Are all models using kpaw now?

Im interested in 908 and 909 for a 32 gtst though im sure others will want to know...

Also,

The debate on crossdrilled...

From what ive gathered, every1 says don't go with crossdrilled for track use, because of the major heat build up. So if you were to use them for street only, would this give better stopping performance than slotted only? If so, should you also be concious not to thrash them too much?

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JimX Grand Master

JimX

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If drilled don't dissipate any extra heat then I'd say there's no point in getting them if you're concerned with stopping power. The primary way to prevent brake fade is to dissipate more heat so if the brakes aren't improving on that then you can't improve on brake fade. The surface of the disc in and of itself does not really improve the braking effect directly.

For normal stopping a drilled or slotted rotor isn't going to pull you up any quicker than a normal disc, they'll just give you added benefits like wiping the brake dust off the rotor and getting rid of a little extra heat (though I thought slotted was better at this than drilled).

This is why I think I'd prefer an unslotted/undrilled kangaroo paw disc over a slotted regular ventillated disc, because I believe the kangaroo paw design removes more heat than surface slots. But I'll have to think about the other things like removing of brake dust with the slots and hopefully there will be the option of slotted kangaroo paw for the best of both worlds.

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dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by Brody

Hey Steve,

Are all models using kpaw now?

Im interested in 908 and 909 for a 32 gtst though im sure others will want to know...

Also,

The debate on crossdrilled...

From what ive gathered, every1 says don't go with crossdrilled for track use, because of the major heat build up. So if you were to use them for street only, would this give better stopping performance than slotted only? If so, should you also be concious not to thrash them too much?

Cross drilled discs are definitely not suitable for track use. Heat and cracking from accelerated fatigue are the major issues. Unfortunately over many years people have been led to believe that Cross drilling is a Motor Sport standard.

From the testing I have done a Cross drilled disc will give the shortest stopping distance in an emergency braking situation but are not designed for repetitive heavy braking as in racing or a severe street thrashing. Towing heavy trailers is another No No for the Cross Drilled disc.

Cross drilled rotors will always have a place in the market but for the purpose of reduced stopping distances. Quite a lot of guys use these discs for Auto-X overseas which only involves a single heavy stop at the end of the course.

I hope this clears things up a bit.

Steve

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dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

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Originally posted by JimX

If drilled don't dissipate any extra heat then I'd say there's no point in getting them if you're concerned with stopping power. The primary way to prevent brake fade is to dissipate more heat so if the brakes aren't improving on that then you can't improve on brake fade. The surface of the disc in and of itself does not really improve the braking effect directly.

For normal stopping a drilled or slotted rotor isn't going to pull you up any quicker than a normal disc, they'll just give you added benefits like wiping the brake dust off the rotor and getting rid of a little extra heat (though I thought slotted was better at this than drilled).  

This is why I think I'd prefer an unslotted/undrilled kangaroo paw disc over a slotted regular ventillated disc, because I believe the kangaroo paw design removes more heat than surface slots. But I'll have to think about the other things like removing of brake dust with the slots and hopefully there will be the option of slotted kangaroo paw for the best of both worlds.

Sorry! Missed this question.

The DBA 909 is not K/Paw yet. This tooling is due to be rebuilt very soon.

Ideally the more disc mass the better the ability to absorb heat energy. This can have other problems if taken too far though. So this means that a standard plain disc has the best heat capacity, but doesn't have the same ability to remove dust and expelled resin during fade. This is where the compromise comes in.

The K/Paw (Skippy) ventilation promotes good air flow and stability which helps maintain consistancy in braking. If I had a spare 3 hours I could explain all the parrameters involved.

Its all about control of heat input in a very short period of time, heat output in a controlled manner, and maximising stability during this process.

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dbasteve Enthusiast

dbasteve

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Originally posted by JimX

Steve, I don't doubt your words because of who you work for :P but how exactly do drilled rotors pull you up quicker? I just can't imagine the physics.

The holes and slots in the friction surface tend to add resistance which aids the friction process. Sort of like dragging the sole of your shoe over a steel grate.

Its a little difficult to explain as it doesn't really alter the friction coefficient but does aid the braking torque. This added efficiency increases with compressability of the pad material.

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