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Does anyone have and questions or problems with disc rotors?

We are doing some more development on Skyline rotors and are interested in some quality feedback to customize a better product.

Thanks

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Originally posted by russcb007

If you like you could send me a set I'll do some tests and drive around with them and let you know if there are any problems...

Cheers,

Russ

Thanks....But we have no shortage of volunteers, just quality feedback at the moment.:uh-huh:

I.E

Warpage, Thermal Shudder, Cold Shudder, Pad problems, ect

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Hi Steve,

Been meaning to talk to you guys about some uprated discs, perhaps you need a development car:D

Street driving, even hard - never had a problem. No fade, nothing.

Track driving. This gets very frustrating after 5 quick laps, I get significant fade, and I can't stay on the pace coz I'm not willing to trust them into the corner.

I have run nissan standard pads, ebc greenstuff and bendix ultimates, and stuck with the bendix coz they have great initial bite. Terrible for dust though. Discs need machining every time I replace the pads, but I guess that is more the due to the pad being agressive than any inherant problem with the rotor.

Never had an issue with warping on the skyline, but I always cool down before stopping (& no handbrake).

A lot of us will be going to Eastern Creek for the afternoon on 21/11, perhaps you could drop by then, should be up to 10 skylines.

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Hmmm!

Uprated discs :P

This what I do.

Thursday 21st right?

What time in the afternoon?

R33 GTS-T

Rotors = DBA 926 (296mm x 32mm)? (or the other GTS-T 310mm)

Pad part number = DB ????

I know of a few solutions for this problem. Please confirm the part numbers and I will see what we can do.

I would like to come out to Eastern Creek and have a look.

Thanks

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gday

ive got an R33 S1 gtst auto

i find that on the track the only pads i can use that dont fade

are kentek metal, although the down side to these is they chew the discks a bit and they squeal a lot when the dust builds up.

apparently the gtst has a lot of squeal issues with brakes.

on the up side these pads stop realy well !!

i have asked around for which discs are best suited to track use without breaking the budget , and have been told the standard

solid items are best

i have been also told on a large number of occasions to steer clear of the dba slotted or dirlled rotors if using for track because they apparently warp much easier than standard units

i would be interested to see what else is available or recommended as my rotors are due for replacement in about 4 weeks im already on minimum thickness.and i would like to replace them with someting better than standard.

send me an email if you want more infor on the punishment my brakes receive

[email protected]

glad to help

Martin

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Originally posted by MYGTST

gday

i have asked around for which discs are best suited to track use without breaking the budget , and have been told the standard

solid items are best

i have been also told on a large number of occasions to steer clear of the dba slotted or dirlled rotors if using for track because they apparently warp much easier than standard units

i would be interested to see what else is available or recommended as my rotors are due for replacement in about 4 weeks im already on minimum thickness.and i would like to replace them with someting better than standard.

send me an email if you want more infor on the punishment my brakes receive

[email protected]

glad to help

Martin

Thanks,

I've heard these comments about our rotors on the track a few times and it is a fair statement regarding our rotors on some cars. Basically they are designed for for street use and can only handle street generated temperatures.

What we have been developing for the past few years is a track orientated rotor for street cars (Club Spec). There are a few cars in the upcoming Bathurst 24 hour race using these discs and certain cars have been using them for the last 2 to 3 years.

We are only just starting on the Skylines for this class of rotor and this is the main reason I've jumped on this forum.

We have a few GTR (Club Spec) rotors for trials in Japan and it sounds like we need to do a few GTS ones as well.

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I don't understand... Don't you already have discs for skylines? They're listed in your catalogue, and I have them on my car...

Front

AP Racing 6 Piston Calipers

DBA 330mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (Two Piece Rotors w/ Seperate Mounting Hat)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS3000 (Track) / DS2500 (Road) Brake Pads

Rear

Nissan 2 Piston Calipers

DBA 294mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (One Piece Rotors)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pads

127-2778_IMG.jpg

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Has anyone noticed that when the slotted discs are not slotted all the way to the outer edge that a groove starts to wear at the tip of the slot around the circumference of the disc.

Im assuming this is from where pad material builds up and cannot clear out thru the caliper etc. I have noticed some slotted discs are grooved all the way to the edge, is this the reason to stop this local build up of used pad and erosion of disc.

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Originally posted by Merli

I don't understand... Don't you already have discs for skylines? They're listed in your catalogue, and I have them on my car...

Front

AP Racing 6 Piston Calipers

DBA 330mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (Two Piece Rotors w/ Seperate Mounting Hat)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS3000 (Track) / DS2500 (Road) Brake Pads

Rear

Nissan 2 Piston Calipers

DBA 294mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (One Piece Rotors)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pads

Very nice!

That looks like a Gavsport setup using some of our U.S export rotors and aluminium hats made by them. These kits are assembled by the brake workshops. The rears are off the shelf.

I was talking about direct O.E replacement rotors modified for track use. Basically the rotors listed in the catalogue but with a few tweaks. The setup you have is the ultimate for your car.

Sorry to confuse. Keep asking questions please.

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Originally posted by Roy

Has anyone noticed that when the slotted discs are not slotted all the way to the outer edge that a groove starts to wear at the tip of the slot around the circumference of the disc.

Im assuming this is from where pad material builds up and cannot clear out thru the caliper etc. I have noticed some slotted discs are grooved all the way to the edge, is this the reason to stop this local build up of used pad and erosion of disc.

You are exactly right.

These are some of the tweaks that can be done. Its not recommended to slot a standard street rotor to the outside edge because of the increased risk of cracking. Discs using modified material can be slotted to the outside as per the picture I posted.

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Originally posted by dbasteve

Very nice!

That looks like a Gavsport setup using some of our U.S export rotors and aluminium hats made by them. These kits are assembled by the brake workshops. The rears are off the shelf.

I was talking about direct O.E replacement rotors modified for track use. Basically the rotors listed in the catalogue but with a few tweaks. The setup you have is the ultimate for your car.

Sorry to confuse. Keep asking questions please. [/b]

Ahhh I see...

Well I had standard brakes and I boiled the brake fluid on the back straight of Wakefield in 4 laps (including 1 warmup lap, so really 3 laps)...

So I spoke to Kevin Gavin and we put together a suitable brake package for my horsepower levels...

For more standard cars that see track work, I would suggest just a simple Kangaroo Paw core, with perhaps a stronger metal composite for better wear characteristics that can withstand harsh metallic trackwork pads, and still last a decent amount of time...

I know a few people do what I do and use a harsher compund pad for the track, but fear that we'll eat through the rotors...

Strong rotors, one set of pads for street and one for track, braided lines and good brake fluid should be all most cars need...

....in my humble opinion obviously. If I'm wrong, please correct me Steve.

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Originally posted by Merli

Ahhh I see...

Well I had standard brakes and I boiled the brake fluid on the back straight of Wakefield in 4 laps (including 1 warmup lap, so really 3 laps)...  

So I spoke to Kevin Gavin and we put together a suitable brake package for my horsepower levels...

For more standard cars that see track work, I would suggest just a simple Kangaroo Paw core, with perhaps a stronger metal composite for better wear characteristics that can withstand harsh metallic trackwork pads, and still last a decent amount of time...  

I know a few people do what I do and use a harsher compund pad for the track, but fear that we'll eat through the rotors...

Strong rotors, one set of pads for street and one for track, braided lines and good brake fluid should be all most cars need...

....in my humble opinion obviously. If I'm wrong, please correct me Steve.

Your on the ball mate.

Has anyone used DS 3000 pads?

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Originally posted by dbasteve

Has anyone used DS 3000 pads?

I put DS3000s in everytime I goto the track... I quickly swap out the DS2500s, and put the DS3000s in when I change my wheels to track rims and rubber... Takes an extra 5 minutes per wheel and personally I reckon they're awesome...

No fade whatsoever (this is probably a combination of pads, rotors and fluid though), and they haul my ass up 100%, every single corner, no matter how late I brake, or how long I stay out there for...

Noisy as hell though, and everyone thinks my car is going to fall apart when I drive to and from the track with the DS3000s, and obviously very dusty.

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