Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have been after a immaculate set of r34 gt-t rims for a while and it looks like i wont be finding any soon.

I am looking for a set of either 17's or 18's in preferably a 5 or 6 spoke rim price i am looking to spend is < $1600 but naturally the less the better :headspin:

Also rims must be in in very good - excellent condition i am not looking for ones with dints and really bad gutter rash. if you have a set please let me know. otherwise i think i might have to go buy a brand new set of Lenso Muse's which look nice but are pretty expencive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56775-wtb-mags-for-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have a set of r34 gtt rims with brand new tyres 235's front and rear. They are not immaculate as i bought them with the car. I will be purchasing a set of r34gtr rims early next year so if you want to wait until then PM me and we can possibly arrange something.

Contact me as my parents have a set of R34 GT-T wheels on their R33. Only 1 wheels has a minor gutter rash on it (of memory)... but dont hold me to it!

They are after a set of Blitz Z1... if you have a set they'll gladly swap... or contact me via PM with a reasonable offer to forward to them.

:rofl:

woa cheers for all of the replys guys really appreciate it.

stav, kng-r32, xzibit

thanks for the replys but not after those rims but again appreciate the replys :)

japp_imports and croat i will send you a pm. As i said if they are not that great though i will probably leave them.

  • 4 weeks later...

I got a set of Buddy Club P1 racing 17" with 225 tyre all round asking for $1300

R34 GTT standard with front 235 and rear 255 asking for $1650

and also Advan RG 18" with 245 front and 265 rear ....asking for $2700

All wheels are in prefect condition

I am in Brisbane...also I have a set of R32 GTR standard asking for $900 and R33 GTR standard for $1900

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...