Jump to content
SAU Community

Group Buy: FMIC Front Mount Intercooler 600*300*76mm


Recommended Posts

Front Mount Intercooler *OEM Hybrid*

- Polished Surface

- Core size 600x300x76mm

- Overall size 780x300x76mm

- Compressed air flow rate = 750 cubic feet/min, rated 750-800 max hp

- Working pressure = 35-40 psi

- Pressure drop = 2 - 5 psi @ 35 psi

- Hot air temp = 0-150°C

- Universal front mount fit

- Comes with mounting plates and bolts for fitment

- Core in fin (Bar and Plate)

- Hybrid OEM core

- 3" in/out end tanks

Pictures available upon request. Please send your request to [email protected]

Its a minimum purchase of 20 numbers, directly from China. The price worked out has already include the freight charges, insurance, 15% duties, 10% GST, customs broker fees, port clearance charges, quarantine charges and all other misc documentation fees.

Price - $310. (EXCL post within Australia) For Perthies, pickup is good for me. Other state, cost to cost post PLUS a $10 charge for misc fees such as delivering the coolers to the courier companies, calling them to get quote etc. :cheers:

FMIC - Closing deadline for orders 15th Dec, 2004

Arrival to my port - End of Dec, 2004

You should get it by 15th of Jan, 2005

Payment, deposit of AUD$250., the rest payable when the coolers arrive.

I have got 3 people including myself getting the coolers, any takers?

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

FMIC Buyers List

1) (ME)

2) (ME)

3) (ME)

4) phatBoy77 (SilviaWA)

5) boosted (SilviaWA)

6) r0ma (SkylineSAUtralia)

7) r33 newbie (SkylineSAUatralia)

8) Jarus (SAU)

9) rb25freak (SAU)

10)Lanfoh (SAU)

11)White-R33 (SAU)

12)Wizard2K (SAU)

13)Linxus40 (SAU)

14)BOOSTD (SAU)

15)R32Big_Boy (SAU)

16)aussnick (SAU)

17)stromJ01-uwa (SilviaWA)

18)Taken

19)Taken

20)Taken

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey peeps, I know I'm new in this forum and I understand how you would feel putting your money with a stranger. So I wont want any deposit until the closing date of the orders. When you wish to make the deposit, you are welcome to come over personally to my place in Thornlie (Perth) and pay. This is just so that everyone knows where I stay and everything. Nothing to hide .. Nothing dodgy ... =)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alternative site for order reference - www.silviawa.com/forum

sorry mate, i only ordered the coolers from overseas. as the coolers are universal, its hard for me to find a metal fabricator company to do up models for different cars.

however, i believe most workshops are willing to do the installation which will include the neccesary pipings at a small fee.

sorry about that.

Im pretty keen, How do go about paying you?

Hi there, if you have friends in Perth or coming to Perth or staying in Perth, I welcome buyers to make the deposit when the order date close at my house.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If ya not able to pay personally or get any friends to pay etc, I will forward you my bank details when the order date is closed. I wont take any money right now.

Hope this helps.

R33 newbie, Jarus, RB25freak. Thanks for indicating your interests.

---------------------------------

Things are looking great for the FMIC so the order will go ahead without any hitches.

Please kindly drop me an email with your home address to my email address at [email protected] or [email protected] so I can forward you guys the bank details when the order date is closed. The home address is also for me to check out the postage pricing when the coolers arrive.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hope this helps.

Count me in for one aswell - will be going into an RB30ET R31, since it's universal that wouldn't be a problem would it?

Universal FMIC isnt a problem for most turbo cars. Just get a couple of mates and get the piping ready and on a spare day, DIY! Save money and learn more about your own car! If not, just get a reliable mech to do the installation for it.

Hope this helps.

Universal FMIC isnt a problem for most turbo cars. Just get a couple of mates and get the piping ready and on a spare day, DIY! Save money and learn more about your own car! If not, just get a reliable mech to do the installation for it.  

Hope this helps.

Some Fm's dont fit very easily - you may need to hack at the inside of your front bar to fit them and you may lose your AC fan and you may have to do some relocation (best to look into it if ur doing it urself. Youd be better off getting a reliable mech to do the job.

Could I get a measurement(width) of the end tanks and also the bar and fin width? Also, Is it cast or alloy??

:)

Does any body know of anybody that can do the plumbwork (for R33 gtst)cheap in Sydney, the cheapest Ive found is about $700.00 mandrel bent polished pipes though. Maybe we can organise a group buy in plumbing for the r33gtst?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
×
×
  • Create New...