Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Two quick questiosn for ppl that own a Pfc.

1. If i removed the ECU from the car for 24hrs, then plug it back in, will it still (guaranteed?) have the tune in it. I imagine it doesnt default back to base maps?

I ask because i want to get my car dyno'd with my Jap ECu to compare how it goes, as seat of the pants feels the same but with far worse fuel economy...so just want to see / compare the two ECUs and want to be sure that i wont wipe the PFC tune doign so.

2. When the car went into the workshop with std ECU and functioning low fuel light. Car came back with PFc installed and tuned and now the light doesnt work, but the fuel pump to the best of my knowledge was not touched?

Coincidence...i cant see how the fuel light is related to ECU, especially since i suspect the light is operated off the voltage signal from the float in the tank????? but before i start ripping things apart and checkign them all, thought id see if other ppl have had similar experiences

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56924-apexi-power-fc-ownership/
Share on other sites

ive had my r32 with the power fc sitting in it roy with no battery at all in the car for over a week...same as having it out the car.....and it dont forget Roy :(

Interesting about the low fuel light....i havent seen it come on either with my pfc installed too....probably cos im too scared to let it get too low now with me bosch pump :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...