RB20 rebuild!!!

[blackrb20silvia]

hey people

just a few Qs

1 .. does anyone know where i can get a rebuild kit for a rb20 silver from and how much?

2 .. what else is involved.. ie..machineing? ect.. ?

(3 and 4 are not QS)

3 .. i just want a standard rebuild no forgies or anything just standard.

4 .. yes i can do all assembly myself just need the parts, cost and location?

also im not after people to tell me its not worth it... or just put this in... or just do this ...or do that

i would love to do all that but i have spent to much money based on the rb20

so changing is out of the Q at the moment

also have priced a second hand engine frow wreckers still weighs in at $1200

at least id rather spend a bit more and have a brand spanker under the bonnet

and not another time bomb

thanks to all who reply your info is greatly appreciated

matt

[Ed G]

check out this guy http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/catdown.htm

last time I looked they had all sorts of std rb20 stuff... last time i looked it was about 110 per piston + 180 for rings + 120 for all the bearings + 350 for full gasket kit etc etc... it adds up...

[SXC180]

any spare parts shop can order a full gasket set for a rb20det

its about $500

[cobo_11]

any spare parts shop can order a full gasket set for a rb20det  

its about $500

ouch!

[Ed G]

check out this guy http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/catdown.htm

.....350 for full gasket kit......

^^

[Roy]

also have priced a second hand engine frow wreckers still weighs in at $1200

at least id rather spend a bit more and have a brand spanker under the bonnet

and not another time bomb

thanks to all who reply your info is greatly appreciated

 

matt

Try another wrecker, for $600 you can get an RB20 with warranty. As for rebuild, if th rpistons and rings are ok then just throw fresh bearing throughout, should be pretty cheap. As for particular price, well depends, do you want tnew valvesprings as well etc etc

[blackrb20silvia]

cheers guys

but i rang nearly every wrecker i trust in sydney that i got shit from before and cheapest is $1100

the price has gone up heaps in bout 6 months last time i checked they where $750 and that was from SSS automotive now they are $1100

but to my own contradiction i can get a set of forgies with rings for bout 100 dearer than standard so i will be using forgiesand aside from the piston and rings what else do i need (obvious gasket kit)?

[DofDof]

u gotta account the $$$$ of labour (removing engine, taking it apart, putting back together) then add in the $$$$ of machining work of block (bore & hone). u might find ya crank is scored (screwed) hence machine that too...head maintenance (machine head).

also chemically clean engine (acid bath)

all this above doesnt include any parts wat so eva...this is wat needs to be done to rebuild an engine.

i would say that this part of the rebuild is where u will be spending most of ur $$$$

i would also recommend the use of forged pistons (arias)....the price of them these days, u would be stupid to ignore them.

if u want u could upgrade ur rods too (possibly eagle, crower)

adding the pistons and rods will stength'n engine up completely...this would provide u with a strong & reliable bottom end capable of producing high hp figures

other things u might want to consider...type of bearings, cylinder sleeves / liners, head studs (arp)

hope this helps ...i in process of gettn engine rebuilt too...it a long and lengthy process which involves lots of time and $$$$

good luck

cameron

[Cubes]

I wouldn't worry about using aftermarket rods in the RB20t.

Its very unlikely you will be getting any where near 300rwkw. lol

If I were to build up an rb20t I would leave the bottom end std. with the largest overbore possible and concentrate on a little bit of headwork to get the air in to the chambers a little easier.

Just a few specs on the valve sizes.

RB20

- Inlet 30mm

- Exhaust 27mm

R32 RB25

- Inlet 35mm

- Exhaust 29.5mm

R33 RB25

- Inlet 34mm

- Exhaust 29mm

RB26

- Inlet 35mm

- Exhaust 29.5mm

Those valve sizes are from my measurements.

The exhaust:

I would think hard about spending a cent on the exhaust side of the RB20t head as it is plenty free flowing.

- Providing there is enough room (maybe deshroud a little to make room) I would look in to the use of RB25 exhaust valves, all depends on price.

The inlet.

The little nasty 30mm valves is what makes the rb20t require so much boost to make decent power.

There isn't much room in the combustion chamber however if the bore is oversized it may be possible to deshroud the inlet valves quite a bit and use the rb25 bigger valves.

Second I would spend money on the usual porting with a port match and ensure the inlet port is opened up nicely all the way through.

Get the motor breathing much better and it will make good power much much easier.

For example the RB20 turbo requires around 1bar to make 160-170rwkw.

That same turbo on a rb25 with the better breathing head only needs 10-11psi.

I've got a good RB20t head going for cheap if any one wants to pick it, port it then drop on their RB20t.

If I don't sell it, I will pull the sucker apart and see how hard it is to make the rb25 valves fit.

No doubt a decent overbore will be required and obviously deshrouded valves.

[BHDave]

I'm with Roy, mains and big ends are the most important. Unless you've holed a piston they should be ok. I'd do the rings as well though. With new rings you'll need to have the block honed to bed the rings in.

Also as a minimum i'd get the head skimmed so it's definately flat, the block should be ok. Do the oil and water pumps and the timing belt while it's apart, it'll make life easier to do it now rather than to do it 6 months later once the water pump starts to leak on you.

As you are now getting forgies check the clearance required as you may now need to machine the bores to suit.

[Cubes]

blackrb20silvia,

Have you thought about ACL aftermarket pistons?

Forgy's are not always the best way to go if you want to rack up hundreds of thousands of kays.

I think you would get better results by spending the money from a set of pistons on headwork to get the head breathing better hence less boost required to make the same power.

Get the inlet really worked on.

[Ed G]

that price seems expensive for the motor alone! I think thats a price for the motor+all the bits (turbo/manafolds etc etc)... ask them what you are actually getting, I think you can get a bare engine for ~600 up here

[blackrb20silvia]

thanks all

al the above info helps heaps

at the moment i dont know what state the engine is in at all

the full story goes like this

seen a silvia advetised with rb20 smashed front end pretty serious bent chassis rail

all straight dead flat panels full black respray with purple pearl

the car was built by TOKYO TOYS so i knew is was the goods

the car blew the brake master brake master and caused the acco

there are no brake master cyls in the country for a ABS eqquiped silvia

replaced with a patrol cyl brand new

found that all the turbo was siezed, manifold, dump pipe, and turbo was held by a few bolts

new turbo found on ebay t3 rear and a lrgaer than t4 front been highflowed and rebuiltfor some reason it was made by borg warner???? i dont fnow what type of turbo it is but its big.

had custom manifold made for it high mount with a 38 mm tial wastegate 3 inch now turbo back,

front mount, brand new Xtreme clutch, master cyl slave cyl, gtr fuel pump and ignighters

after nearly $17,000 later she was ready to start

but no spark and #6 injector being held open flooding 6

off to the auto elects

bad news did a compression test 50% down on cylinder 3 compared to the others

i think that my life has ended and wwas up for a rebuild

but in the last few days some close friends have said that this could be for many reasons 1 that could be that the valve was siezed cuz the motor hasnt been run in bout a year and might need a splash of oil to get it going

so at the end of the day fingers crossed that is all it is

so by the end of the week we should have engineers report blue slip and rego

and maybe i can free up the engine and get some compression

if not then im going the rebuild

so that is the full story

does anyone know of this happening to someone and does it sound like a realistic problem

P.S all the above parts were purchased because the where A) foorked

eg.. turbo, clutch

or B) missing eg.. T4 that was in the add and the fuel pump i coulnt see it

this car has been bad luck since i bought it that is why i assumed that the engine is cooked it just ties in with the theme of the car

i was ripped off (not really) and now my ass is bleeding cuz of it

[Angry]

awesome info guys.

gives me plenty of scope for my Rb24 rebuild

cheers

Matt

[Ed G]

was the compression test done warm or cold?

[blackrb20silvia]

was the compression test done  warm or cold?

the compression test was done cold

i only know this because the car wont start i have #6 injector being held open causing hydrolic lock and i have no spark this was way out of my leauge

auto elect did the check still waiting for the car to come back then ill do a compression test myself

ive been told to do a wet test which i suppose you lube the cylinder first with a bit of oil cuz the engine has been dorment for bout a year

assumed problem is a stuck valve???

does this sound right???

[Ed G]

check this out

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55219

[blackrb20silvia]

its been a long time between drinks at the moment

i have finally driven the car ....whoo hoo

but... smashed it :Oops:

well not my fault it had been at the auto elects for three months forgot the bonnt latch was not on the car and yep you guessed it on the way home doing 50 after boosting only 1 min earlier the wind picked up and flipped the bonnet smashed the screen and roof

well 1500 later all good again

anyway engine came apart found that the head gasket was all good just recently changed

head sent for check came back 100% could not be better

so must be the bottom end pulled the rest of engine out of car pulled bottom end apart hping all i needed was a set of rings

nope looks like that when the previuos owner did the head gasket they left it to late water had pitted the bores thats why i was losing compression and had a broken ring in three

so a new bolt in replacement is being sourced at the moment

matt