Jump to content
SAU Community

Gone from WRX to GTR?


Recommended Posts

I went like this;

new'93 WRX sedan (10gearboxes, then sold the sh*tter) , new '98 WRX wagon (kept std, only broke 2 gearboxes and sold the sh*tter), then I woke up, built a 11sec flat 32 GTR that I always wanted, tuned 350 odd rwkw, stepped off the clutch and fried tyres in third, never broke a box, da da da.... Loved it, sold it, cryin!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It just comes down to how much they sell for and what people are prepared to pay for one.

For example, my next door neighbour just bought a brand new shiney WRX (MY99) for the handsome sum or $25k. 5 years old.

I will land my 89 GTR for about $23k all up. 15 years old.

So I guess you could say the GTR is roughly three times better than a WRX based on their value alone. We all know that its a lot more than that :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keithy George.

Budget to have the suspension bushes, shocks and springs done.

You may end up better off buying a stock example, if thats possible.

Windscreens being 1700 od.. Thats what you get for going Genuine.

Aftermarket Windscreens are available for R32 GTR/GTS-T's for standard windscreen price.

Aftermarket window rubbers are also available for a cheap price ($30 front - $40 rear)

Aftermarket PBR clutch master cylinder is also available - ~$65

Aftermarket PBR slave cylinder (gtst not sure about the r) is available -$30

Radiator hoses, sub $20.

Engine coolant hoses you will have to go genuine. Expect up to around $400 for a complete set. These will need doing.

Replace all fuel line hoses. cheap.

Expect coils to crap them selves. (Import a HP $500 set from Nengun)

I wouldn't worry about the gearbox or diff's.

Providing the car is relatively stock the motor will be fine.

If you do have to rebuild a stock build (you removing and installing) will set you back anywhere from $2000 for just the bottom end or $6000 for a set of forged pistons, rebuilt top end, ported/polished and shotpeened rods, balanced, blueprinted.

Obviously some people charge the earth when the hear the word Nissan Turbo.

You will have to find the right bloke to do the build which some times is very hard.

One thing you can't replace is a banged up shell or one that has had an accident and bogged/welded up. They never quite look the same.

If I were buying an R I would concentrate on getting the shell/interior as clean as possible. The driveline/diff/suspension & motor can all be replaced.

A wonky guard can be I suppose but it is depressing. Especially when you would most probably spend the $$ replacing that motor etc when the power bug bites anyway.

Time to hit the sack. I've been up since 12am for work to feed my rb30det addiction. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to have 4 WRX in my house (House mate car) From 95 to 2002 (have driven all the car and has trash alll the WRX before) and during that time i own a R34 GTT. However now i have an R33 GTR. I would say GO for GTR. Also i am selling my GTR now too for 35k.. looking for R34GTR. I Will NEVER EVER get a WRX.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...