Stalling Dramas - (This time the post worked :D)

[46n2]

Sorry Lads,

Guess the forum DB screwed things up for me....

I'm having probs same as basket case. Identical desc'n...

I have a next to stock RB20

K&N M's Pod filter.

Oil just changed

Plugs new and gapped to 0.8

SAFC2 installed and tuned (but this was happenning before the SAFC went in).

In my case it only seemed to start happening since the alarm went in, but since someone else is having the same troubl in an Rb i'm not so sure.

The alarm is getting bypassed on Thursday to eliminate it from the list of possibilities.

Any help appreciated.

Michael

X-POST...any help would be great pls

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55512

hey guys, I have an Rb 25 in my ceffie, and just recently every now and then seemably at random my motor just shits itself and looses power stalls, but if im quick and flick it into neutral and rev it a little, it will keep going as long as I don't let the revs drop to idle.  

Now this little siezure will last about 30s to a minute whilst I think my car is dead and im looking for a spot to bail by the side of the road. I pull over keep it going or even let it stall, then a min later and it will start and drive perfectly like nothing ever happened.

It doesn't matter whether the motor is hot or cold  but it only started in the last two weeks or so in this wet weather so I think that may have somthing to do with it.

Has anyone had anything similar happen with their Rb25s? I also noticed these tubes coming from the head have a little oil in them for the first time ever and this problem started cropping up - not my engine in pic and my tubes are clear hose thats why ican see there is oil in them. I thought they were oil breather hoses so i figure this is probably fine, but if anyone can correct me please do so!

Its the only way I'll learn...

[Sydneykid]

Time for a leak down test, both of you.

[VL-TRBO-RB20]

the same thing happened to me!!!

there was a hole in my air intake pipe so all the air was going back out after it got sucked in....

check it out it cant hurt if its not the prob but thats what was wrong with mine and fark it gave me the irrits when u came up to lights n then the rev's would just drop n the car would die!!!

PM me tell me ya results

[217/r33]

does this car have a bov? if so that might be the problems as the computer dumps more fuel and acts a full (corect me if im wrong) or might be a leaking bov wen u release the accelerator eg, come to a set of lights an the car will stall because the bov doesnt close in time and that will make it stall as i had the same problem with an aftermarket bov. ( went back to factory )

most people keep the factory bov, but some belive it leaks :bs!:

[shif_tea]

i had a similar prob in my rb25det, turned out it was dodgy coil or something.

[46n2]

thanks lads...

Sydneykid. 'scuse my ignorance but what's a leak down test? (*EDIT* cancel that, I overcame laziness and ran a search).

VL-TRBO-RB20 yeah i've had that prob before. I took it to a place in brisbane and they didn't do up any of the hose clams (among other things) on the intake side and the car would overfuel like a mo-fo when i gassed it... If that's what u mean then it doesn't feel like the prob this time.

217/r33: Nah standard BOV. SAFC2 installed so if i get an aftermarket jobbie i that will correct it anyway

shif_tea: thanks mate.

I'll get a multimeter and check the resistance on the coils. 0.7 should read OK yeah?

Anyone else have more i can try...It's a real pain in the arse

I've cleaned the AFM plug (few wks back) but still happenning. Connection didn't really have any corrosion anyway.

[maccattack]

Currently having an identical problem with mine.

Initially thought it was dirty fuel and that the fuel pump may be stuffed. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. No good.

Earthed the fuel pump for a constant 12v. No good.

Removed and cleaned out the air flow meters. No good.

Tried a replacement crank angle sensor. No good.

Tried a replacement spark amplifier. No good.

Refitted the original computer to the car (currently using a Power FC). No good.

At one stage the car actually died and refused to start. Got it on a flat bed and got it to my mechanic. Fitted a pressure guage to the fuel lines and found I had zero pressure. Someone touched some wiring near the fuel pump and pressure went up to 50psi. Assumed then that the problem must be electrical, relating to the fuel pump.

swapped the relay switches (aircon to fuel pump) to see if maybe it was a dodgy switch. Nuthin.

So far the car has been at the auto electricians for two and a half days and they can't seem to find anything wrong.

If there is anything glaring that you think may be wrong or that we may have missed, PLEASE let me know.

Thanks

[cobo_11]

My problem started likes this......at first it was 2 coil packs.....replaced them and no worries.....but at the start of the year a similar problem came back.....took it to a place in cheltenham (VIC) and they "apprently" fixed it....ok for a month then started happening again...went to NZ for several months, just came back and decided to find the problem myself! 4 injector plugs fatigued and corroded like you wouldnt believe.....replacing them now......see what happens....

But definately check your coil packs! and NOT JUST the resistance.... i did that, but I also checked the little carbon thing inside the coil boot....2 were rat sh&t......dont know if R33's are carbon connectors or those little springs....but anyway, that fixed my problem and maybe similar fix for your problems....

[Sinista32]

Similar but not the exact same maccattack so don't flame me. I noticed you mentioned in your post earth grounding and fuel pump. Yours is at the AutoElec so prolly not same as my problem.

As recently as this morning my problem was resolved by stripping the wires back near the fuel pump and found poor wiring and not grounding properly. Fixed the wiring and resolved the problem.

[maccattack]

Thanks Sinista32 I'll pass it on

[46n2]

Well I've had the immobiliser "Bypassed" and it stalled again when idling in the garage...

With the help of a fellow SAU'er we quickly got into the boot with the mukltimeter and checked the voltage in the fuel pump wiring, and was reading 0.00 with ignition ON. Turned the ignition off and back on again, and i think it read 0.00 again, but the 3rd time it read ~12.0V.

So definitely something dodgy going on with the wiring to the pump.

Checking the wiring from the alarm / immobiliser, it looks as though only the ignition immobiliser circuit has been looped, and we had difficulty finding the 3rd point immobilisation.

An interesting theory put forward was that if the 3rd point was installed in line with one of the other immobilisation circuits, and another relay was installed on the fuel pump line then this could be causing issues (there's already 1 relay installed when it came from the factory according to the Engine Manual).

With the way it was explained to me (2 relays in line with each other) the "THEORY" made sense (step forward and explain away if you feel the need anonymous ), and it would also explain why I'm able to recover when i know it's happenning by pressing the accelerator pedal more.

So a few questions for the poor lads who are having similar issues...

1. Do you have a 3 point immobiliser circuit installed in your cars?

2. Where (Physically) is the fuel pump relay (factory) located?

Cheers guys...

Michael

[hellrazorette]

Hopefully found the cause of the problem...

Fuel pump relay appears to be in the boot (thanks for the help in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=58344)..

The terminals on the relay are corroded, and so time to get a new relay and see if it sorts it out...

46n2

[maccattack]

Thought I would give an update on my problems as we appear have to sorted it (knocks wood). Was having similar problems to 46n2 and hellrazorette, with regards to intermitant fuel pump failure, etc, etc, etc.

After testing near every wire and relay, the problem came down to 2 things.

It would appear that one of the AFM's was dodgy -and so we replaced it.

The second (and probably the root cause to most of the problems) was that the plug into the power FC had the ability to rock back and forth - temporarily loosing pin connections - to the fuel pump.

Even though the plug has a bolt in the centre of it, we put large zip ties around the plug and the computer. So far, we have had no problems.

So for those having similar problems - try checking the plug on the computer.

If it moves at all - it may be your problem.

Good luck.

[46n2]

Always interesting to see the long line of fixes for the same/similar problems

Well i replaced the relay on sat arvo and drove out to Calder on Sunday and all seemed OK, but it did misfire here and there, but nowhere near as bad as before.

But i did only replace the relay, not the plug (which was also corroded). I'll try replacing the plug tonight / tomorrow and see how goes

I'll check the ECU Harness too

Cheers

46n2

[grigor]

If you had success moving the ecu plug about, I'd check for dry solder joints in the ecu socket. Very common with older ecu's.

Acknowledgement to Skyline Stu.