Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done this convo so it's not stuff I have heard.

- It does bolt straight up

- Get the RB25 elbow,or drill out the holes in the Rb20 one.Just beware the RB25 one is larger inside

- Use RB20det actuator coz it makes more boost

- One mod to do is tee into a hose from the plenum coz the RB25 compressor housing does'nt have a hole for it unlike the RB20 turbs.

Any more Q's just ask.

RB31 power , my opinion only , I would drill and tap the RB 25 comp cover and use the compressor discharge pressure as the wastgate actuator signal source . Using inlet manifold pressure signal can make the wastegate do strange things like opening and closing very quickly . Those Hitachi turbos have enough problems with ceramic turbine failure (particularly with increased boost meaning higher shaft rpm's) so throwing extra transient loads on them only agravates the probs .

My opinion only , not interested in turbo mods that could lead to failures , the cost and inconvienence is not worth it .

Cheers A .

P.S My prefference is the early RB25 turbo with the aluminium compressor wheel , seen too many shattered plastic ones .

Discopotato03,

Thats an interesting theory regarding the wastegate actuators signal source.

It could also explain why the rb20t turbo's appear to be much tougher than the rb25 turbo's. I.e able to run more boost and in my case 16psi for 2years or so.

16psi, im running my stock rb20 turbo at 14psi, from what i have heard the exhaust wheels dont like been overspeed.

Jst out of curiousity are the rb25 turbo's a ceramic design or steel wheeled?

I agree with what Discopotato03 said, you get a more acurate boost response when the actuator gets its vacume pressure from the comp cover..

For what its worth will i get much more power using a rb25 turbo or will I still be restricted at running 15psi??

I did try that once with eratic results . I'm not sure if the waste gate actuator is designed to run at lower that atmospheric pressure which you get in the inlet manifold at part throttle off boost . The danger is that the turbo could be running at higher boost than the manifold pressure indicates ie flow losses through intercoolers , leaks etc . Plenty of production cars can boost against a partly closed throttle so if the manifold pressure is below the actuators spring rate the turbo can be worked harder than intended . However if you take the signal from the turbos outlet you can be sure the pressure your regulating is what the compressor is putting out .

Would I be right in assuming R32GTST's don't have electronic boost control and R33 GTS25T's do ?

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...