Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done this convo so it's not stuff I have heard.

- It does bolt straight up

- Get the RB25 elbow,or drill out the holes in the Rb20 one.Just beware the RB25 one is larger inside

- Use RB20det actuator coz it makes more boost

- One mod to do is tee into a hose from the plenum coz the RB25 compressor housing does'nt have a hole for it unlike the RB20 turbs.

Any more Q's just ask.

RB31 power , my opinion only , I would drill and tap the RB 25 comp cover and use the compressor discharge pressure as the wastgate actuator signal source . Using inlet manifold pressure signal can make the wastegate do strange things like opening and closing very quickly . Those Hitachi turbos have enough problems with ceramic turbine failure (particularly with increased boost meaning higher shaft rpm's) so throwing extra transient loads on them only agravates the probs .

My opinion only , not interested in turbo mods that could lead to failures , the cost and inconvienence is not worth it .

Cheers A .

P.S My prefference is the early RB25 turbo with the aluminium compressor wheel , seen too many shattered plastic ones .

Discopotato03,

Thats an interesting theory regarding the wastegate actuators signal source.

It could also explain why the rb20t turbo's appear to be much tougher than the rb25 turbo's. I.e able to run more boost and in my case 16psi for 2years or so.

16psi, im running my stock rb20 turbo at 14psi, from what i have heard the exhaust wheels dont like been overspeed.

Jst out of curiousity are the rb25 turbo's a ceramic design or steel wheeled?

I agree with what Discopotato03 said, you get a more acurate boost response when the actuator gets its vacume pressure from the comp cover..

For what its worth will i get much more power using a rb25 turbo or will I still be restricted at running 15psi??

I did try that once with eratic results . I'm not sure if the waste gate actuator is designed to run at lower that atmospheric pressure which you get in the inlet manifold at part throttle off boost . The danger is that the turbo could be running at higher boost than the manifold pressure indicates ie flow losses through intercoolers , leaks etc . Plenty of production cars can boost against a partly closed throttle so if the manifold pressure is below the actuators spring rate the turbo can be worked harder than intended . However if you take the signal from the turbos outlet you can be sure the pressure your regulating is what the compressor is putting out .

Would I be right in assuming R32GTST's don't have electronic boost control and R33 GTS25T's do ?

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...