Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I have a Cefiro, 10inch JL sub, 5 1/4inch MB Quart Discus splits up the front, both running off amps.

Question being, do I need rear fill at all, I have some cheap VDO 4inch two ways I can put back there, or I can put the 6x9s back (the carrozza jap ones that sit on the parcel shelf). Like is putting anything back there going to distort the sound I already have, or will it just make it sound more 'full' so to speek.

Also, where would the best position for the sub be? (pre fab box)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/
Share on other sites

Personal preference I reckon Dave...

I like a bit of rear fill, keeps the kids happy :P My setup basically: 12" Sub, 6.5" Splits in the doors. Both powered by the amp, 6.5" Coaxials in the parcel shelf powered by the deck with the fader slightly to the front...

I reckon the 6 x 9's would make a mess of the sound, but ultimately be louder... In your situation, I'd either go with the 4's or fork out for some cheapish 6.5 coax's...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1107869
Share on other sites

Struttos on the money here - the 6x9's won't be great so the 4's or coaxs would be the go.

Personal preference - I have always liked rear fill but usually it only accounts for about 10-20% of what I hear in the front.

When there's someone in the back I up it a little so they don't just get bass'ed out (don't have sub in cefiro at the moment so no worries there).

At the moment my setup consists of a 4x60wrms (or so) pioneer gmx-414 amp powering 2 focal kvp2 6.5" splits up front.

The stock 6x9's are crap but are currently powered by the 7450 pioneer head unit for tiny amount of rear fill.

When I get off my fat ass I'll be ripping the stockies out and putting in some el-cheapo 6.5" phillips drivers in the back which came from a splits set but won't have the tweeters (one was crushed in the a piller so bugger it) and they will be running from the amp.

Can't afford my amp+sub yet but I'd like it to be a 1.400 audison + ID max 12" of some sort..... heh still don't have 1-1.5k for amp+sub so I think this may be in a year or two :rofl:

Good luck tho davo - nice avatar btw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1108137
Share on other sites

Again, 6x9's would be a poor choice as I find the tweeters to be too bright and will drag your sound stage to the rear.

6.5" coax's would be ideal and I usually fade the head unit around 75% to the amplified front, 25% rear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1108390
Share on other sites

Again, 6x9's would be a poor choice as I find the tweeters to be too bright and will drag your sound stage to the rear.

6.5" coax's would be ideal and I usually fade the head unit around 75% to the amplified front, 25% rear.

When you put it that way I dont think I'll bother with the stuffing about.

Any thoughts on the sub positioning tho?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1109120
Share on other sites

I have Rockford in front and in trunk. But I have also rear fill with Rockford coaxial, not just because there is space for it, but it is needed with the upcoming surround processor! :rant:

Regards

Håkan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1109268
Share on other sites

']I have Rockford in front and in trunk. But I have also rear fill with Rockford coaxial, not just because there is space for it, but it is needed with the upcoming surround processor! :D

Regards

Håkan

That's because you're a crazy Euro with crazy gear in your car!! :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1109837
Share on other sites

I don't understand the use of an American full range speaker when many of the local products are very good in Europe.

As for sub positioning, I would just put it where it is most practical for daily use of the car. As for firing direction, trial and error would be the best bet but not many can be bothered knocking up a dummy box for testing, unless of course you dont plan to mould the box shape into your install, then you could use the dummy box full time :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1109923
Share on other sites

yeah.... rear fill I think is essential actually for a good sounding setup. Some say its optional, but I disagree.

At the moment, in the R31 I just have a pair of 6" fronts, and a decent amp powered sub, but the whole setup still really lacks the "fullness" that I like where the sound is coming from all around you. It was much better in the R33, with the 4x speakers and the sub.

Don't use the 6x9's like people are saying, but some 6" (even cheaper ones) should do the job nicely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1110740
Share on other sites

That's because you're a crazy Euro with crazy gear in your car!!  :wassup:

Yop, and more is to come in that Skyline, I can promise you.

Btw, rear fill was included in the first step, no discussion when we did that. If there is a space for speakers, fill it! :D

Regards

Håkan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57430-rear-fill-needed/#findComment-1111970
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...