Jump to content
SAU Community

Which intercooler? Apexi v Hybrid v Hyb. copy

B0oStEr

By B0oStEr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

I'm buying a fmic for my near stock R32

I've found three alternatives in my budget.

1. Hybrid 600x300x76mm 15 bars. (rated to 800hp)

2. Hybrid copy 600x300x76mm 16 bars (rated to 1000? hp)

3. Apexi 400x270x100? Designed for R32GTSt with built in outlet for an underneath return pipe. (rated to 400hp) Twice the price of the other two.

I'm going to fit it by extending the factory piping.

I don't think any future mods will see any more than 400hp so would the Apexi be better for response due to it's smaller volume and slightly shorter pipe length?

Is there any real difference between the 15 and 16 bar designs? I've been told by people selling something else that the newer Hybrid copies are too light weight and they have durability problems.

I don't believe everything sales people tell me. I'd rather talk to people that are using them. Is there another alternative for under $800?

What would you go for?

DRFT33 Collaborator

DRFT33

Posted
Posted

apparently the 15 bar is better because there is less restriction. i'm also lookin for a FMIC and some people tell me an FMIC is an FMIC as long as it cools the air. and then some say pay the extra and something decent because you'll notice it esp. with boost leakage.

its up to you if you wanna spend the money i guess!!!

the cheaper alternative to the Apexi is a GReddy V-SPL... have a look around for them you can get them for around $1450.

B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

drft33

Who told you the 15 bar ones flow better? One eBay listing said they are superior to 16 bar ones because they have higher velocity. Higher velocity sounds good but you can get higher velocity when you reduce cross-sectional area and thus increase backpressure so I'm not sure if they actually flow better or not.

I saw the small Apexi GTSt intercoolers new on eBay as a buy it now for $799 but they're over now. I'll have to see if they relist them.

32vspecII Mentor

32vspecII

Posted
Posted
i have a hybrid (not  a copy) and it is great...

yeah , great results from all the hybrids I have seen running . I have one to go on my skyline asap .

some of the "copies" i have seen are not the same cooler , similar though but not the same .

DRFT33 Collaborator

DRFT33

Posted
Posted
drft33

Who told you the 15 bar ones flow better? One eBay listing said they are superior to 16 bar ones because they have higher velocity. Higher velocity sounds good but you can get higher velocity when you reduce cross-sectional area and thus increase backpressure so I'm not sure if they actually flow better or not.

I saw the small Apexi GTSt intercoolers new on eBay as a buy it now for $799 but they're over now. I'll have to see if they relist them.

i guess i shouldn't trust the guys from NS.com then.. hehe.

and sorry, by boost leakage i mean the boost holding. say ur runnin 12psi it doesn't drop to 11psi.

RiverSide Proficient

RiverSide

Posted
Posted

I have a hybrid (not copy) waiting to be put onto a car........for the price and performance i have seen with them i see no other option.....

Where else can you get a cooler that does the same job, brand new, and looks as good (i prefer the look of bar and plate over tube and fin)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

      Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
×
×
  • Create New...