Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know its not a Nissan but the car that will be replacing it is.

I'm looking for $35000 ono.

I have all the original bits I've taken off the car and they will be sold with the car.

Engine -

351 Windsor 2V

new waterpump

gilmer drive

16 thermo fan with sensor control

new starter motor

new starter solenoid

new battery (in boot)

K&N 14" filter with extreme flow top

rebuilt original Autolite 2100 carby

radiator has been recently flushed and pressure tested

transmission cooler

Underneath -

all new suspension, pedders sports shocks/front springs, new rear leafs

2" lower ride height, new bushes

new uni joints

brakes have just been serviced

Weld Prostar wheels 15x7 fronts 15x8 rears

BFGoodrich tires with 95% tread

9" diff (not sure of the ratios)

Transmission -

FMX 3sp

completely rebuilt

2500 highstall ccnvertor

stage 2 shift kit

B&M starshifter (can be shifted manually as well as normal full auto)

was told it would be good for 600 horses

Interior -

SAAS reclining bucket seats

SAAS 3 point Harnesses

new carpet

custom centre console

custom door trims

Mustang dashmat :D

JVC MP3 head unit

MB Quartz splits

Mechanically the is nothing wrong with this car, bar a slight weep out of the PS pump.

The windows have just been tinted, bumpers and some of the other exterior bits have been resprayed, has a new set of headlight glass with halogen globes, all the rubbers have been replaced as well.

Is fitted with a Brant 3 point immobiliser that is independant of the alarm with has its own 2 point immobiliser, central locking etc.

Car currently has 11 months rego.

I also have an engineers certificate for the modifications that warrent one.

sorry but the pictures seem to come and go. (dodgy cheap webhost)

Boot.JPG

Dash_Center.JPG

Dash_Driver.JPG

Door_Trim.JPG

Engine.JPG

Front.JPG

Int_Driver.JPG

Int_Passenger.JPG

Int_Rear.JPG

Left_Rear.JPG

Left_Side.JPG

Mach_stripes.JPG

Right_Front.JPG

Right_Rear.JPG

Right_Side.JPG

Wheel.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57761-1970-mustang-mach-1/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
×
×
  • Create New...