Jump to content
SAU Community

Triple plate Fcuk up??

West

By West,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

just got a question regarding to my 32GTR , it had triple plate clutch on it. I was really hard make noise when reverse, need at least 3000rpm to have a good/normal at the light taking off ...ect..but recently i lanuch my car really hard at 7000rpm once or twice and now the clutch feels like a normal heavy duty/button type thing.

. First scenario :

Ok my thought is with my old car ( 33gtst ) when i first had exceedy button clutch in, it wasn't behave until things sit in and settle down ( like new engines run in ) so i think this would be the case?

. Second scenario :

I fcuked it up lol

. Third scenario :

There never was a tripple plate ..? but still why was it so hard..ect..until recently it become a ***** cat? ( mind that i never was putting the clutch in cos' i bought the car it came with it and we never open anything up to inspect )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57763-triple-plate-fcuk-up/
Share on other sites
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

I think you'll find most competition oriented devices have side effects on road cars . I've never run multiplate clutches but have asked those who have on competition cars . Until recently I thought they were all about multiple small diameter friction plates to increase grip and reduce innertia or the flywheel effect . Another advantage of the things is the multiple plates have their own hubs on the gearboxes input shaft sharing the load , compared to a single plate single hub . By the sounds of things the down side of using them in road cars is cost and the rattle that the drive plate makes at idle . Sydneykid did mention recently that one of the aftermarket Jap mobs was doing one that didn't rattle so it must have some kind of pre-load spring . I know of at least one import GTR that had its removed for a more conventional clutch because its a road car .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • MBS206
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • WARLORD
      injectors top feed for sale

      By WARLORD · Posted

      Deatschwerks 1800cc sold
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...