Jump to content
SAU Community

gtr front bar on gts-t

GOR33

By GOR33,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

GOR33 Mentor

GOR33

Posted
Posted

hey peoples

i have asked this before but i did not get much feedback, so i did a search and couldnt find much on the topic, so i thought id try again:)

i want to try and fit a genuine gtr bar onto my gts-t. ive heared that this can be done but there is a little over hang in the wheel arch.

i was looking through some old hpi mags and in the gts special, there was a harlequin coloured gts-t with a gtr bar on it, it looks like it fits good but if you look closer, the bar is slighty odd shapped under the headlights, as if it has been sqeezed on or something.

im just wondering if anyone has actually fitted a gtr bar to their gts-t, or knows if it works???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57768-gtr-front-bar-on-gts-t/
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Hey Rodney,

Yeps. Fitted a GTR Veilside front bar to my R32 GTS-T. I bought it from UAS for around $500. The best way to fit, in my opinion, is take a small section out of the centre. That's what we did with mine. It wasn't much (1-2") but it fitted soooo good.

GOR33 Mentor

GOR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh i dont see why it shouldnt fit on, the gtr guards arnt too much bigger, its just thta this pic in the magazine looked bad, like he had used a gtr bar and squashed it into place makeing the top of the bar sorta bend under where the lights are.

also, does anyone know were u can get gtr lips? fibreglass or plastic, it doesnt bother me really?

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Ive seen 2 r32 gtst with genuine gtr front bars that fit pretty well with no modification. They over hang into the wheel arches about 1cm maybe.

The main benefit of getting a genuine gtr front bar is that they are plastic, not fibreglass, and therefore much stronger and resistance to smashing.

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

I.ve got a gen gtr bar on my 32 and all you have to do is put 2 slots in the bumper support and fold it up a little where there is that little rise for the number plate. Don't lissen to anybody who says they won't fit because there to wide.

GOR33 Mentor

GOR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sounds good, but im still worried about buying a bar that doesnt fit and needs extensive work.

if any of you have the hpi skyline special edition that was out a few months back, take a look at the green r33 in it, he fitted a genuine gtr bar, and it looks like its weird under the lights

linxus40 Community Regular

linxus40

Posted
Posted

this is my gts-t with gtr front bar

http://members.optusnet.com.au/linxus40/newcar1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/linxus40/newcar2.jpg

pic dosent really show it but there is a small gap in the sides below the indecators, about 5mm rinning back towards the wheels.

a very sexy look v's the gts-t stock one tho for sure

The Sherrid Proficient

The Sherrid

Posted
Posted

If I may put my two cents in here, I don't want to step on anyones toes here but i have to say that the comment from xrhettx about original bars being stronger is simply not the case. I make the GTR bar out of fibreglass to fit R33's and i have this to say. after makeing fibreglass spoiler kits for cars for some time now, it becomes aparent that people who make boats and kidies slides don't seem to think that its nescessary to think about what happens to front bars when they hit gutters and stuff. Understand this there are a few things to consider about a bars structure and they are,

any material that is bent slightly and returns to its original shape has the property of being elastic, if it doesn't return to its original shape then it is a plastic material. A hard material is more resistant to wear then softer materials and a tough material can withstand a large force without breaking where as its oposite state is a brittle material.

an original bar being made of a plastic material has a much greater ability to act in an elastic manner then a fibreglass bar, which idealy is what you want in a front bar, basically the more elastic the material the better. However there are other things to consider in a front bar. such as paint and once the bar becomes plastic then you will never get it back to its original shape. it remains eternally deformed and then fitting it properly and or fitting indicators back into place becomes next to imposible. A fibreglass bar can be repaired no matter how many peices it comes in. the most costly bar that i have ever repaired cost $150 and yes it was ****ed. none the less it was still cheaper to repeir then the cost of a new plastic one.

fibreglass is a hard material unlike your standard polyurathane bars which means that it doesn't wear as much as standard bars, this does'nt mean much because we are not subjecting our front bars to wear. except on the bottom of the front when you do gutters and shit. a good example here is the GTR lip on an original bar. its made of a highly elastic material which is actually different to the rest of the bar and can flex a whole 180 degrees except for a few hair line creases and thats about it. the best part is that its not painted so it still looks brand new. the fibreglass side is that you can lay the fibreglass in certain ways so that it has a considerable amount of flex in certain points. this makes the paint stay in tact and if it comes right off your car it wont try to rip the front guards off with it, which can become costly too.

The other good thing about fibreglass is that it is a tough material which means it can handle a harder hit then a standard bar. its a good property to have because it means that the paint wont crack when you hit something like some ****s foot. As a matter of fact when i make my front bars i am so confident inn there toughness that i have kicked one around the backyard for a bit, full pelt until i got tired (smoker) and it looked exactly the same as when i started. if i were to do that to a standard bar it would cave in.

the other thing about fibreglass bars is that they apear to be lighter then original bars. true and not true. you can make a front bar out of fibreglass and it can be half the weight. the only problem with that is it cracks very easy. this is the usual method that most manufacturers use because its cheaper to use less materials. if you count all the ribbing that supports a standard bar which is needed to reduce elasticity(looks like ribing on your gearbox) then you can have a front bar that is about the same weight as a properly made fibreglass bar.

to sum up in my opinion, an original bar is the better option if you cant find a fibreglass replacement of good quality or if it does not need to be painted like the original GTR lip.

GOR33 Mentor

GOR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sounds very true bogdan

i was under the impression that plastic bars were better, plus this guy on the forums has a genuine bar thats painted the colour of my car for a price i can afford at the moment, so this is why i am curious as to weather it will fit on my car.

the only thing is that his bar doesnt have the bottom lip on it, and i dont know if i will ever find one that i can afford either, escpecially around christmas!

so i might even have to just buy a full fibreglass bar unless i can just get a lip, or find sumone who can paint the bar for cheap:)

GOR33 Mentor

GOR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
another pic to show the gap

http://members.optusnet.com.au/linxus40/side1-s.jpg

going to get kit resprayed and see if they can make the fit even tighter shortly

yeh mate you can see that gap a little more, i wonder if its different for 33s?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...