Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Yall,

I just got my block back from the shop. I had them O ring the block, however I ashumed they would put the wire into the grooves already, to my dismay I recieve my block along with a roll of fence wire (well it looks like).

what I want to know is how do you put the wire in properly?... how does it stay there while you stick the head gasket and head on?... and my main concern what do you do with the ends of the wire once in the groove? do they need to be joined or do they just but up together??????

thanx for ya help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58010-installing-o-rings-into-rb30-block/
Share on other sites

You might be best off taking it back and getting them to fit the wire, I'd say it's part of the job when you o-ring the block. You have to butt the ends of the wire together and it needs to be spot on or it wont seal as well as it should. The wire should be an interference fit in the groove, meaning you have to tap it into the block and you need to snip of the ends square so they can butt up properly.

When you say fencing wire, what is the diameter of it and what is it made of? I always use 1mm copper wire when I o-ring blocks. Also, if the wire isn't fitted by the sounds of it the head hasn't had receiver grooves cut in it? you need to fit the wire to mark the position of the receiver grooves before you cut them. If you're running a copper gasket you are much better off having the receiver grooves in the head.

Ill try to attach some pics of what I'm talking about.

Do I have to have reciever grooves. I was told i dont! im only running a stnd head gasket for now. i heard that the stnd head gasket starts to fail around 18psi unless you o ring it or put in a metal one.

oh and the metal of the wire isnt copper its ally i think.

I haven't o-ringed an RB using the standard head gasket, I have done other engines though when customers want them done. You don't need a receiver groove with the std gasket but the ring needs to sit directly below the steel fire ring on the head gasket.

The only problem I've seen with this setup is if the o-ring is too far from the bore it can squeeze the gasket in over the cylinder. You also dont want to run as much protrusion on the o-ring, .010" (.25mm) would be more than enough.

I'd still get the guys that did the job to fit the wire and check the protrusion. It takes a bit of practice to butt the wire up spot on. There are a lot of different ways to do it, I'm not saying the way I do it is the only way but it works for me.

In my opinion though, a MLS gasket like a Cometic or Tomei etc would seal better than a composite gasket with an o-ring. The next step up from those would be o-ringed and receiver grooves with a copper gasket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
    • I was just going to say that it's good to see you picking up the pace again. Hope the surgery goes well. More downtime just means more time to come up with new ways of digging a deeper rabbithole  
    • How do they compare in size? I have the Yaris coil packs in mine and they work fine. But they are either bigger or sit differently so the engine cover doesn't fit anymore. Not the end of the world but not great either. Do the R35 ones sit flush?
    • Righto,  enough of ADHD Anonymous! 🤣🤣 Rear end is completely stripped out apart from coil overs that will take 5 minutes.  Fingers crossed it doesn't look like that for too long!   Cleaning up some bits as I go so they can go straight back on. It amazes me how good stuff looks just with a good hard scrub! That will be it for a couple of weeks. I've got ot a bit of surgery Friday that will put me out of action for a few weeks. Hopefully the motivation is still there when I'm ready to get back into it!
    • The povo spec CA18S one, yeah. All turbos had 16x6.5 5 stud and 4pot brakes.
×
×
  • Create New...