Jump to content
SAU Community

HELP PLZ!!!! Auto r33 stalls with minor throttle

Tigger

By Tigger,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tigger Collaborator

Tigger

Posted
Posted

This has got me real worried! I hope someone can help me with this problem!

I have:

Automatic s2 r33

pod w/o cai

3.5" cat back exhaust

9psi

Driving on the way home today i noticed that my idle was doing something funny. Normally it would sit at the 600 or 700 rpm mark and not jump around but today it would rhythmically jump from 550 to 700 rpm and the engine would sound different... sortof like when you put some burden on the electricals (windows or moving the steering wheel). And when i push the accel down from the lights, at the start for a split second it feels like the engine is choking and about to stall but the revs pick up and off i go.

So i got home and in the driveway i wanted to test out if i could actually make it stall since it sounds like it was going to...

The revs are bouncing around again, and when i apply the slightest bit of pressure on the accel and keep it there, the revs drop to zero and the engine stalls. But if i apply the slightest bit more pressure, the rev pick up and its all fine and dandy. Its actually rather difficult to make the engine stall since i have to maintain the exact amount of pressure but it still bothers me that the engine sounds like its about to choke and stall. A couple of times i actually had the engine falling to about 50 (fifty) rpm and be able to pick up the revs again without the engine stalling.

Can someone please tell me what the problem is? I've noticed it doing something similar before but never as serious as it was just now. I have a suspicion it *might* be something sitting in my fuel tank because it tends to happen when im running fairly low on fuel. But i filled up on the way home and it still did it in the driveway! ArGH! Maybe i should wait for the fuel to settle? I dunno???

Anyway... somebody please shed some light into what the problem may be :ghost:

Fly_With_Sky Rising Star

Fly_With_Sky

Posted
Posted

yeh do a search as it could be somehting like a dirty afm to the idle control valve thingy malfunctioning. there is a heap of info on it as i have recently searched some of it myself.

Just a quick question, do you get compressor surge when taking you foot off the acclerator as my r33 auto started to do what you described sometimes as well. If your turbo is going su tu tu tu then my theory is that the afm thinks there is more air than there really so ecu dumps more fuel and car stalls sometiomes because of it.

Tigger Collaborator

Tigger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just got back after i took her for a drive and theres nothing wrong! :)

Now im pretty sure there must be some bad crud sitting in the fuel tank that stuffs around with the engine when im running low on fuel.

How do i go about flushing the fuel tank?

Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

It is very rare for a car problem to fix itself

it will probably come back worse

if there was dirt in the fuel tank the fuel filter would have stopped the majority of it

my car keeps killing afm's and is also an auto doing exactly the same as yours.

as soon as it happens again take it to an auto electrician to be safe.

if your prob is the same as mine it will detonate really easily on high boost when the prob gets worse.

Be very careful....have it checked out in my opinion

Nizmo Grand Master

Nizmo

Posted
Posted

my car does that on and off. Stalling when low revs - if you creep forward or in reverse if you creep back - sometimes when your sitting at the lights the revs will just start gonig spastic and it will cut out - these days when the revs start gonig spastic i slip it into neutral and its fine. Its just occasionally - have no idea whats wrong - i just put it down to my car being female therefore tempremental haha

Fly_With_Sky Rising Star

Fly_With_Sky

Posted
Posted

yeha putting it in neutral takes the strain of the engine so thats why its all good there.

When i take my car for a service and little bit of modifying very soon i will get my mechanic to look into why my car sometimes feels like it will stall and every now and then, and fix the problem for good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • niZmO_Man
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...