New RMR30 owner with problem

[83_R30_Hatch]

Hi guys, I got myself an RMR30 Hatchback a few weeks ago and while its a very nice car to drive I've got a few queations.

The steering at the moment has a bit of a dead zone in it where the steering wheel moves but the wheels do not. its only a few inches of play but its not direct enough for my likeing. Is there any fix to make the steering more precise?

Another thing is I've just noticed an oil leak coming from the rear of the motor (L24E). It looks as if the rear crankshaft oil seal is failing but I am wondering if its somthing else? anyone had this problem and know hot to, or how much it will cost to fix it? I am in Frankston .VIC BTW.

Can the 'afterburner' style tail lamps of a similar model be used in place of the blocky OEM ones without heaps of wiring or modifiaction?

Other than that this is a great car with only 180,000Km on the clock and only ever been driven by two elderly owners, the first was a retired mechanic and serviced it weekly for 15 years.

Only other thing is that Slick50 has been used at some stage, and I've herd plenty of horror stories about that stuff, so I hope this motor dose last me untill I get a second car to drive while I work on the Skyline.

Yes, its a auto, and I'm regretting not finding a manual instead.

All of the factory service and repair manuals came with it too

[SteveL]

I had an R30 hatch for a few years, very good cars and the L24E gives surprisingly good performance (better if it's a manual). Anyway one thing that does let them down is....

  83_R30_Hatch said:

The steering at the moment has a bit of a dead zone in it where the steering wheel moves but the wheels do not. its only a few inches of play but its not direct enough for my likeing. Is there any fix to make the steering more precise?

...recirc ball steering. When they get a bit of wear, these cars steer like a boat. First thing to check is the idler arm attached to the passenger side rail. There are 2 plastic bushes that support the arm which are notorious for wearing out. When they do, the steering feels really loose. You should also check all the other steering parts for wear (eg tie-rod ends) as there are a number of joints in the system and a bit of wear in each 'adds up'. Steering box usually doesn't give problems, but if everything else checks out might be worth having a specialist look at it.

  83_R30_Hatch said:

Another thing is I've just noticed an oil leak coming from the rear of the motor (L24E). It looks as if the rear crankshaft oil seal is failing but I am wondering if its somthing else? anyone had this problem and know hot to, or how much it will cost to fix it? I am in Frankston .VIC BTW.

It would be unusual for the rear seal to give problems unless the engine's done a lot of k's or was badly installed at an overhaul. The side seals on the rearmost main cap sometimes give problems, but again usually only after high k's or a bad install. Another possibility is leaking sump seal as the oil tends to gravitate to the rear and it's common to loose tension on the sump bolts over time. Best thing to do is to give the whole engine a thorough degrease and try to spot the source of the leak after that.

[83_R30_Hatch]

Thanks Steve, I'l get my friend to put it on his hoist and look at it soon.

[BensDR30]

Hey the auto's not too bad! yours is a 4-speed too, which means that the tunnel is effectively larger than the 3-speed or manuals.

(the bodyshell is the same, there's a section removed to allow the larger 4-speed ato to fit - did it to my ol MR30).

The steering boxes are not too flash in their precision. Once you've checked the idler, drag link & pitman arm you can try tighening up the preload, but to it by the book or you'll bind up the gears.

Fitting JDM lights is pretty easy - the sockets may be different (they are on the early MR's), but since yours is a series 2 I epxect that they will go stright in with zero mods.

The rear main sounds leaky (not uncommon for a 20 year old datto!). It can be replaced without pulling the engine, but I'd suggest trying a slightly heavier oil to see if that helps.

It looks real neat inside & out. Original carpets too.

[StraightSix]

  SteveL said:

I had an R30 hatch for a few years, very good cars and the L24E gives surprisingly good performance (better if it's a manual).  Anyway one thing that does let them down is....

...recirc ball steering.  When they get a bit of wear, these cars steer like a boat.  First thing to check is the idler arm attached to the passenger side rail.  There are 2 plastic bushes that support the arm which are notorious for wearing out.  When they do, the steering feels really loose.   You should also check all the other steering parts for wear (eg tie-rod ends) as there are a number of joints in the system and a bit of wear in each 'adds up'.  Steering box usually doesn't give problems, but if everything else checks out might be worth having a specialist look at it.

Is it possible to retrofit an R32 or other rack-and-pinion steering rack?

My '85 RX-7 has made me quite familiar with sloppy steering

[83_R30_Hatch]

  BensDR30 said:

Hey the auto's not too bad! yours is a 4-speed too, which means that the tunnel is effectively larger than the 3-speed or manuals.

(the bodyshell is the same, there's a section removed to allow the larger 4-speed ato to fit - did it to my ol MR30).

 

The steering boxes are not too flash in their precision. Once you've checked the idler, drag link & pitman arm you can try tighening up the preload, but to it by the book or you'll bind up the gears.

 

Fitting JDM lights is pretty easy - the sockets may be different (they are on the early MR's), but since yours is a series 2 I epxect that they will go stright in with zero mods.

 

The rear main sounds leaky (not uncommon for a 20 year old datto!). It can be replaced without pulling the engine, but I'd suggest trying a slightly heavier oil to see if that helps.

 

It looks real neat inside & out. Original carpets too.

Thanks, I need to change the oil soon anyway so I'l use somthing heavier. Would synthetic be a good idea/worth it for an engine this old?

Right now she's idling/runing quite rough, I think its an ignition problem, so I'l look into a new set of plugs, leads and maybe points and rotor button. This problem started immediately what I started the engine after a few days of not driving.

Are the JDM lights the same as the R31's or do I need to import them? otherwise I could get them from a wreckers.

[machg]

  83_R30_Hatch said:

Thanks, I need to change the oil soon anyway so I'l use somthing heavier. Would synthetic be a good idea/worth it for an engine this old?

Right now she's idling/runing quite rough, I think its an ignition problem, so I'l look into a new set of plugs, leads and maybe points and rotor button. This problem started immediately what I started the engine after a few days of not driving.

Are the JDM lights the same as the R31's or do I need to import them? otherwise  I could get them from a wreckers.

R31 lights are different.

machg

[B0oStEr]

There are two different styles of R30 afterburner tail-lights. I think they come from early and late HR30 and DR30s. They also come in dark tint versions.

If you can get some from an import wrecker don't forget to get the matching trim strip from the tailgate because the MR30 chrome trim looks odd without its corresponding strip in the lights.

[BensDR30]

Run the car at night, in darkness & see if there is arcing between the leads. My MR30 had a visible glow all the way along the original plugleads. Also check the coil for leaks (it's oil-filled), if it's leaking then it's stuffed....

Synthetic is fantastic (I don't use anything else - in my engines, manual tranmissions or diffs), but if your seals are on the way out already, the superior detergent qualities of synthetic blends may make the leak worse.

[83_R30_Hatch]

Thanks for the tip,

The rough engine problem has sorted itself out, but the leads are getting a bit old anyway, so I'l replace them when I do the plugs and oil in the next week.

I'l use mineral oil untill the leak is sorted out too.

[V8skylineMAN]

it is just a matter of adjusting the steering box...best to leave it to someone who knows what they are doing tho......but as with most things.......sometimes adjustment just aint enough

[CarChick]

Hi

I was just wondering if anyone could help me.

My boyfriend has a 1983 Nissan L24E and i have been trying to look for the specifications for it on the internet but Im having trouble. I was wondering if anyone has an idea of an internet address where i would be able to find the specifications.

I would be greatful of any help given to me.

[george.bryant]

What type of information?

Whats the L24E in? A Skyline i assume?

[blind_elk]

It's the R30, george.

Carol, I'm not aware of anything on the net, but you can get a comprehensive Workshop Manual (genuine Nissan) from some bookshops (like Pitstop - www.pitstop.net.au) - a bit over $100.

[george.bryant]

Well i have 2 books "How to modify your Nissan Datun motor" & "How to rebuild your Nissan Datsun L". And i have a workshop manual (that i got off trademe.co.nz for $3).

Let me know what info your after

[R30kc70UGE]

there are the cars specs in Japanese cant remember the Link though :9 but if u search it on a Jap search engine you might get lucky! oops i just relised its probaly for the JDM model hey George what does it say in your How tou modify your L cause i dono what to do with them which i swhy i am getting a strong na replacment but if i could keep the original motor would be Much better!

[mr30_2.4e]

go the l24e 5spd :):) very fun in the skyline

[george.bryant]

u can do a shitload to them!!

[R30kc70UGE]

can u please elaborate! maybe in post message Form So where not concidered Post whores And get the whip lol