Jump to content
SAU Community

Ticking sound after installing B.O.V

R33_Series2Lover
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33_Series2Lover Collaborator

R33_Series2Lover

Posted
Posted

Hey all ever since ive installed my blow off valve when i start the car and leave it to warm up I begin to hear this ticking sound coming from the engine. When i first start it nothing its fine but after a little while of just leaving it there the ticking sound begins. When i begin to drive the car the ticking goes away. Wierd?? Never happened before I had the Blow off valve fitted. When Installing the blow off valve also the guy had the idle adjusted the guy was using a screwdriver to tighten something in the engine bay. What could the reason for the ticking sound

be??? Ive spoken to the mechanic he just goes it just because it takes time for oil to rise when the oil rises the noise stops. Also my idle is wierd also. Before i use to turn it on and go on 600. now everytime i turn the car on it goes to 1000 then drops slowly to 900 then to 600. Then basically it stays between 600-800.

But when i first turn it on for the day it goes to like 1200 then takes a long time to get to 600. If i just get the stock B.O.V refitted and get idle adjusted would it all be good??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58165-ticking-sound-after-installing-bov/
Share on other sites
TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

i don't think that the 2 are connected..

It sounds like the ticking is Lifter noise..

does it get faster and slower with revs? if so, it is the lifters.. nothing to do with the bov.

as for the idle, well you said the guy increased the base idle so that is the reason for the high idle..

plus if it is an atmo bov, then they do weird things to the cars idle most of the time so it could be to do with that that it doesn't idle as it use to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Red Sky II
      Looking for autoelectrician in Perth who can do the OEM to double din stereo upgrade.

      By Red Sky II · Posted

      Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...