Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There were some differences throughout the series, have a search through the forums, I cant remember them all off the top of my head.

EDIT: Below are the changes I can easily find

21/8/1989: R32 GTR released

22/2/1990: R32 GTR Nismo (Grp A base) released. No aircon, no audio, no abs and no rear wiper. Steel wheeled turbos not ceramic

7/1991: R32 GTR N1 released. Almost same as Nismo base but ceramic turbos and non projector headlight

20/8/1991: Minor change to production. Weight increased by 50kg due to side intrusion bars being installed from factory. Projector headlights improved. I am pretty sure there were some other changes around this time (to do with trim etc) but cannot find it.

2/1992: R32 GTR N1 revised with steel wheel turbos.

3/2/1993: Minor change to production. Clutch system changed from push type to pull type. Missions are improved.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58184-r32-gtr-89-94/#findComment-1116639
Share on other sites

Yep, the only thing I can suggest is if its already in Australia, get it taken to a reputable mechanic for a check over and compression test. Get it fully checked out as all the steering and suspension components can cost a damn fortune if they need replacing etc. If its not already in Australia, well good luck :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58184-r32-gtr-89-94/#findComment-1116856
Share on other sites

Cool....

Well its a guy that has been posting around a bit.

Dead stock GTR and engine has been rebuilt 11000km ago by japan peeps coz of AFM failure which caused engine to blow

Yall tell me what you think.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...bayphotohosting

Give me honest opinions...

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58184-r32-gtr-89-94/#findComment-1116894
Share on other sites

With the problems he has listed on the car (failed airflow meter, rebuilt clutch master cylinder, exhaust leak, worn drivers seat) its more consistent with a 80 - 100,000km car in my opinion. But 99.8% of cars are wound back in Japan so that counts for dick.

See if you can get more photos from him, including engine bay pics and interior pics. As its already in AU, also spot the $400 or so to get it fully checked out before you buy it. $400 is some cheap insurance to make sure youre not buying a lemon.

All in all it looks good, and its still got the stock exhaust!!! Something I have never seen before. Get it checked out, if its all a-ok (there will probably be a few problems with cars that age) go for it :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58184-r32-gtr-89-94/#findComment-1116917
Share on other sites

If yr looking for someone to check out a car you intend to purchase, and you don't know who to get, NRMA will do it. Also look in the Trading Post, heaps of mechanics advertise this service in there.

Hope this helps............

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58184-r32-gtr-89-94/#findComment-1117210
Share on other sites

the 89's have increased in cost now. I can show you what a decent 89 GTR is like if you are around (pm me) - (as I imagine many others here can!) It is worth getting a good one in Aust. if you have the extra $$$ to spend, but keep in mind that even an Aussie one might go bang after you have bought it.

The extra $$$ you save by getting an earlier model means more for mods.

I don't think you will get a good 89 for the mid teens now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58184-r32-gtr-89-94/#findComment-1117391
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
×
×
  • Create New...