Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My RB20 is dead.Second gear burnout at 7000rpm broke something in the bottom end.It sounds like a rex and knocks very bad.I'm not sure if I should just get another 20 to put in,rebuild my blown one with forgies etc,standard RB26 or RB30DET?

My RB20 is dead.Second gear burnout at 7000rpm broke something in the bottom end.It sounds like a rex and knocks very bad.I'm not sure if I should just get another 20 to put in,rebuild my blown one with forgies etc,standard RB26 or RB30DET?

go a rb30et bullay, they orse engines unna. My cousin edwin had one in his vl and she used to move out!

go a rb30et bullay, they orse engines unna. My cousin edwin had one in his vl and she used to move out!

RB30ET suffers from 2 diseases;

1. Insufficient camshafts

2. Insufficient valves

:rofl:

Someone should make a thread like that RB25DET one with dyno results of different turbo upgrades for the RB20 =) 260kw is a bit out of my league but i'm aiming for 200rwkw... it'll be a nice upgrade from my old Pintara Ti. Just a quick question which one of you more knowledgeable guys might be able to help me with- My car has the following performance mods;

Aftermarket Front-mount Intercooler

BLITZ Dual SBC (Electronic Dual Boost Controller)

R32 GTR Fuel Pump

Hi-Flow 3" Cat Converter

Height Adjustable Suspension

Front Pipe

3" Turbo-Back Exhaust

APEXi Pod Filter (Building airbox and CAI)

GTR Aluminium Bonnet

I plan to get the following at some stage (money permitting)

R32 GTR Injectors

Power FC

Z32 AFM

Heavy duty clutch

Turbo (Either a standard R33 or 2530)

Just curious what you would recommend I upgrade next? As far as I know the car is still running a completely un-altered standard ECU. Should I invest in a Power FC? GTR Injectors? Z32 AFM?...Clutch? hehe. I don't have the cash to get everything at once.

Also has anyone modified the intake on the manifold so that it faces that front? I was reading that will give an increased throttle response due to the shorter distance the air has to travel, but when I mentioned it to my brother (mechanical engineer) he said there might be a possibilty of uneven air distribution as a result of moving it (i think that's what he said hehe) Anyone know the price of getting it modified?

lol nice tune man... u were getting 270ish at wheels with the 2535 and it died?

hrmm... unlucky i guess

im running 235hp with stock rb20 turbo from a tuning shop where everyone bags and its still runnning good.

Good luck with next motor choice!

My RB20 is dead.Second gear burnout at 7000rpm broke something in the bottom end.It sounds like a rex and knocks very bad.I'm not sure if I should just get another 20 to put in,rebuild my blown one with forgies etc,standard RB26 or RB30DET?

I wont now what happened till I open the motor up.One thing i noticed on start up yesterday is it had like no/very very little oil pressure!!Maybe the oil pump bolts went?they come loose sometimes don't they?

lol best rb20 skids ever! bugger about the break hope it is something minor. Got pretty much the same setup cept a lumpy rom (very conservative tune) and r33 turbo. Pulls 250hp atw on 1.1 bar. need a front/dump pipe, PFC and gtr injectors and hopefully push towards 280. then its on to a stainless mainifold and GT-Rs turbo :D

Yes with that turbo it wudnt be a daily driver!! Thats for sure lol

 

Dont agree, it sounds as though we are running the same turbo, and i use my car to drive to work, the video shop, the pub (but not home:)) i drive interstate with it...and the thing is fine for everyday driving, these days i dotn wind boost any lower then 14-15psi and about 215rwkws. When i want some fun i wind it up to 1bout 17-18psi for about 235rwkws.

Its a great daily driver....nad from what i have read and seen of some others results it makes boost/power as early as a Hi-flow but comfortable makes more power...so until i see soem results of a 2835 i think the TD06-20G is about the perfect street /track turbo for the RB20.

If you want bottome end punch and dont want to track it then id say look at a hi-flow, 2510/2530/GT-SS etc etc etc...but the 20G aint too big :O

Hey Roy, just a few questions, u have a rb20 with a td06 20g right, and u made around 250rwkw,

what psi did u use, what other supporting mods do u have, did the tuners say the turbo had much more left in it rwhp wise.

At 14/15psi i make 215rwkws, 1t 17/18psi i make 234rwkws...adn at 22psi my car made something like 260odd rwkws.

Quick punch lis tof mods:

- TD06-20G Greddy turbo, with Type R Wastegate and Greddy SS exhaust manifold

- GTR Injectors

- Power Fc

- HKS Type S intercooler, HKS air filter and HKS Hyper exhaust

Its pointless comparing dyno figures, but i dont think my power figures are way out at 235rwkws as i ran a 114mph at the drags with 17/18psi

...and R31 POWER, bugger mate, shame to see you did an engien. It looks like you were doign a pretty god brake job in it...what were teh water temps and knock levels like on the handcontroller?

Looks like I have a cracked exhaust manifold or a few snapped studs, as when mine comes on boost its making a strange whistling noise and you get a ig whif of exhaust gas smell in the cabin

Whacked a log (yes log, not a branch lol!) overtaking a car a month or so ago, I had to get the dump pipe replaced, as it was dented to all hell

Can only smell it on boost, so I reckon its a leak

On a more positive note, I did a bit of backyard tuning to stop a bit of detonation I was having, the car feels nice now, spins up 235 wide 17's in second as soon as it comes onto boost now, so its a bit of fun

also, one thing to note, just clocked over 10,000 kms mark running at 1.3-1.4bar, and 158,000kms on my motor ;)

Bummer to R31 POWER, don't loose the RB20 faith mate, stay true! Whack another 20 in there!

Dont agree, it sounds as though we are running the same turbo, and i use my car to drive to work, the video shop, the pub (but not home:)) i drive interstate with it...and the thing is fine for everyday driving, these days i dotn wind boost any lower then 14-15psi and about 215rwkws. When i want some fun i wind it up to 1bout 17-18psi for about 235rwkws.

Its a great daily driver....nad from what i have read and seen of some others results it makes boost/power as early as a Hi-flow but comfortable makes more power...so until i see soem results of a 2835 i think the TD06-20G is about the perfect street /track turbo for the RB20.

If you want bottome end punch and dont want to track it then id say look at a hi-flow, 2510/2530/GT-SS etc etc etc...but the 20G aint too big :rant:

Well i figure i will run about 10-12 psi for daily driving and just wind it up for club/race days or when i want to have a bit of fun.

What yours like on fuel consumption Roy???

In Sydney driving approx 120kms a day, livingt at Richmond, working in Chatswood i was getting about 410-430kms before the light was coming on. Driving up from Melb i was over at about 400kms with still plenty on the dial, but filled up as didnt want to get stuckbetween Albury and Goulbourn:)

So economy is pretty good as long as im not getting stuck up it.

edit... Just worked out fuel economy. Pure highway driving i get 9.2L/100km. City driving i get 11.2L/100km, thats putting around never using more then 50% throttle and 3,500rpm so always off boost.

Roy - I was a dick and did'nt let it warm up enough before the show,water temp started at 49degrees and when the motor stopped it was 99degrees.Knock went up to 90 but I was'nt watching the controller so dunno if it only hit 90 once or what.

Chris32 - I was thinking other motors but I'm leaning towards another 20,gotta love the big revs!!I hope my next motor lasts longer :rant:,I'll look after it more since I've had my fun.

i made 298.7 @ 16.5 psi on sat... dyno dynamics

car had been on dyno for about 2 hours tuning so intercooler was getting a bit heat soaked and piping was fairly hot. would have cracked over 300 easy when not so hot

full boost at about 4100-4200 ish and holds dead steady all way to 7500

car drives heaps better now, lots more responsive and a little more top end, fuel is about 11.3-11.7 afrs and Power FC knock count doesnt go above 35 so is very safe.

will post power graph on friday as i dont have a scanner here. will get tuned again in a little while at 18psi and will hopefully get between 320-330rwhp

Roy - I was a dick and did'nt let it warm up enough before the show,water temp started at 49degrees and when the motor stopped it was 99degrees.Knock went up to 90 but I was'nt watching the controller so dunno if it only hit 90 once or what.

Chris32 - I was thinking other motors but I'm leaning towards another 20,gotta love the big revs!!I hope my next motor lasts longer :P,I'll look after it more since I've had my fun.

Damn, cold motor, big revs and load = big bang! I'd go another 20, at the end of the day, its only a car, it will wear out again, and you can have plenty of fun with the 20. I could'nt drive my car the way I do if I had 10 grand worth of RB25/6 under the bonnett, but knowing its only a bit over a grand if it does shat itself, it makes it more fun. I'd be to worried about nuking it if I had a big dollar motor, to much pain if it shits itself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • H2 (for cars) will never happen. It's not reasonable for any number of reasons. It's also not reasonable for almost all of the industrial uses that the fanbois say that it will be used for, again for a large number of reasons. There are some cases where it will be good. But, even those will be massively hampered by the economics. The only way that H2 can be economic is if we somehow manage to get from where we are to the other side of the economic-valley-of-death in which no-one can operate. You need there to be sufficient renewable generated electricity to be available so that it is effectively free. Once you are there, you can do whatever the hell you want and hang the efficiency. But until you get there, the ever diminishing value of electricity makes it harder and harder to encourage businesses to build the new generation capacity, and they will simply stop investing in generation projects. (I kinda think there needs to be just government money spent on building the required capacity in a non-commercial way, similar to how the first fossil fueled grids were built, as national-government owned utilities. And probably some nuclear in there to start. But this all should have started 10-15 years ago to avoid the chasm of death that we face right now). Synth fuels will be much more likely, but will only occur is there is at least some renewable H2 production, because you need H2 to do it. And you need stacks of free (or at least extraordinarily cheap) energy because assembling molecules back into fuels is exactly the opposite process to burning the fuel, and the reason we burn fuels is because there is so much energy squeezed into each molecule. So you're somewhat subject to the same economic valley of death problem as above anyway. That is unless people are willing to pay the current equivalent of $5 or $6 per litre of petrol-ish liquid fuels. Can you imagine it? The squealing at $2 now is bad enough.
    • This is so cool. Get a dashcam that records audio and hopefully you'll catch it.  Maybe there's a brand or some kind of markings on the back ? Are the pics hand drawn? I love it so much.
    • Hahaha yep, point(s) taken. I just like seeing different things and an EV in an R32 is pretty different. I'm not on the EV band wagon, I'm waiting for synthetic fuels or hydrogen personally. 
    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
×
×
  • Create New...