Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?

[Cubes]

I always ask for all 3.

AFR, Torque and Boost.

[Butler]

Haha nah that was exactly how I recieved the car from Japan with just an airpod and catback exhaust with a straight through pipe added. No tuning involved, just put it on the dyno for two runs to see the power I recieved and thats what I got. Is that result unusually high?

I thought that lower graph the one not showing the hp output was the A/F ratio?

hey dude,

nah thats your boost level. It looks like ur runnin a bit more than 9psi and its runnin out at the top end.

[jazza08]

I think you could of asked for an a/f ratio on the side? Most give boost readings, but some give a/f ratios. Some give torque figures... all dynos are different remember dude.

His cars doin what 99% of turbo cars wit no boost controllers do so no worries there Even some bleed valves and incorrectly installed/tuned boost controllers drop boost levels down at higher rpm

If you have a stock (small) turbo its very hard to keep it at high boost levels at high rpm remember

[Cubes]

Unfortunately the DD Dyno's can only display one at a time.

So for all three you will require 3 print outs.

[Baz]

Yeah I should have asked for the different printouts.

Was reading the latest issue of HPI with the latest update for there R32 RB20DET. They just got there car dyno tuned and it produced 145rwkw. Mine produced 193hp which is about 144rwkw. Im trying to figure out why this is the case because with a 1rwkw difference they also have a FMIC and GTR injectors.

Is there anything I should be looking for in case something is playing up and producing more power but at the same time damaging it? Like advanced timing? Running rich? Just want to get those things out of the way before going and looking for hidden mods which I havent discovered yet.

Cheers

[jazza08]

GTR injectors wudnt do anything extra power wise as standard ones can do that much power as you proved!

Different dynos read differently, some read higher some read lower.

Yes advanced timing would play a part, can get you as easy +- 10rwkw as well as other tuning (as well as other things like engine/turbo condition too!).. i wouldnt worry get hyperdrive to service your car and they will check things over and let you know if anythings up dude Lumpy knows his stuff and would let you know if something was up!

[Cubes]

Is there anything I should be looking for in case something is playing up and producing more power but at the same time damaging it? Like advanced timing? Running rich? Just want to get those things out of the way before going and looking for hidden mods which I havent discovered yet.

Cheers

Dyno readings from shop to shop vary. Its as simple as that.

Or you could have a chipped ecu?

BUT.. Something looks a-miss.

Is that an Intake temp of 45degree's I can see?

Possibly the intake temp sensor was position incorrectly causing an inflated reading.

[Interloper]

Dyno readings from shop to shop vary. Its as simple as that.

Or you could have a chipped ecu?

 

BUT.. Something looks a-miss.

 

Is that an Intake temp of 45degree's I can see?

Possibly the intake temp sensor was position incorrectly causing an inflated reading.

i was wondering about those temps too

45 degrees in winter?........

[Sydneykid]

i was wondering about those temps too

45 degrees in winter?........

The ambient temp was 28 degrees, in a Perth dyno room, sounds reasonable. Note the car has POD, no CAI or heat shielding mentioned. So +17 degrees (28 to 45) due to hot air through the radiator and into the POD is not unusual.

[Cubes]

Bugger that then.. I'll stick with my stock air box + 100mm cai.

I was getting 25degree AT temps & 25degree IT temps with the sensor placed up the CAI poking in to the airbox a little.

Boostworx dyno room is located at the back of a Tin Shed, he does have a big arsed noisy fan though.

[Baz]

The ambient temp was 28 degrees, in a Perth dyno room, sounds reasonable.  Note the car has POD, no CAI or heat shielding mentioned.  So +17 degrees (28 to 45) due to hot air through the radiator and into the POD is not unusual.

So what your saying is that there is no abnormal dyno errors that is making my result seem inflated? And that my result is correct?

[Sydneykid]

So what your saying is that there is no abnormal dyno errors that is making my result seem inflated? And that my result is correct?

Based on what I have seen, Lumpy has no need to give out false readings.

[Baz]

So there must be something that I am missing then because if I'm not mistaken I shouldn't be producing that amount of power considering the mods I have. Took the kick panel to see if the ecu was chipped or not. Nothing unusual about it just had the nissan sticker in the corner with a 22 printed in the LH top part of the sticker. Could be chipped but I wouldn't know until I actually removed the ecu and changed it with another one.

What sort of things should I go looking for that may be hidden, giving me extra power?

[Cubes]

All of Hyperdrives dyno sheets appear to have a 40+ degree IT with a fairly cool 28degree AT.

Maybe its the positioning of the sensor?

I recently saw a friend mine have his R32 tuned at Boostworx (where I get mine done), bonnet open, pod with no shielding and big fan blowing.

The sensor was placed basically directly behind the headlight in a groove of the pods filter.

The AT temps were 28degree's. IT temps were pretty much always +5 degree's.

I really don't know.

Boostworx dyno room is seriously far from being optimal, its a small enclosure with limited exhaust suction that is located towards the back of a larger shed. Bugger all free clean air blowing around. I always leave Boostworx after a tune with my eyes stinging.

Their dyno probably reads slightly higher than the norm.

Which is exactly why comparative figures should be taken with a pinch of salt. Do a few mods and watch the gains then be happy.

You never know.. It 'may' be running an rb25 turbo or something.

[Cubes]

I've done a little searching..

It appears hyperdrives dyno's always run with an AT of around 25-28degree's and IT temps from 45 right up to 61degree's!!

Its consistant.. It is wierd.

[Baz]

So your saying that hyperdrive's dyno is giving a much higher reading than it should be? Also I was comparing my IT result to the HPI RB20DET and they had an intake temperature of 19 degrees. Would my high intake temp reading be enough to offset my actual power output?

[Cubes]

The idea of dynamic dyno's temperature compensation is that hotter air will reduce power, cooler air will increase power. The dyno makes a compensation to try and give a constant power level regardless the air temperature.

The dyno has a middle figure. Say 25degree's.

If the IT is over 25 degree's the dyno will apply its calculation and show an increased power level.

Anything under 25degrees and they dyno will apply its calc. and show a decreased power figure.

The aim is to try and keep power levels consistant across air temp differences.

This method is open to 'fiddling' as when the air temp sensor is placed in a location that doesn't indicate the true air temp the engine is ingesting.

I'm not saying your figure is way off as its not. It is around the mark.

After all a stock R32 with only an exhaust will make 135rwkw maybe 140rwkw if its in good nick and the fuel pump isn't supplying too much fuel killing power.

Installing a new fuel pump, I went from 155rwkw down to 130rwkw on 13psi.

12psi made 152rwkw, ebc then dialed in 15psi and it made 164rwkw.

The difference is your making 144rwkw with only 9psi.

Maybe you have a little bit of hidden headwork or possibly a cam gear is out a tooth allowing the motor to breathe easier in the top end, hence only 9 psi!?!? I'm not really sure.

Damn.. I'm spamming out this thread.. A mod of this section care to create a new thread out of my dribblings?

[Roy]

Perhaps he dynos the car with the bonnet closed:)

[Baz]

I believe my bonnet was closed when the dyno was being used.

[Cubes]

The temps definitely sound reasonable then.

Its probably a good thing to tune with the bonnet down. At least you get a semi-real world environment with real under bonnet temps and then you know it won't ping once you get it on the road.