Jump to content
SAU Community

Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?


Recommended Posts

im not aiming at any great figures, instead a great road car with plenty of response.

Any details about the turbo / setup you are running?

And i hear what you are saying about a responsive street car, but dont be too afraid to throw a mid sized turbo on the RB20. :O

LOL, And again, here come all the disclaimers...i hear what you are saying about no major mods, and it is great power for so little work done, but i think a general trend is starting to emerge in this thread.

And this point isnt shot at anyones results, its just having a think about how/why we keep seeing similar numbers despite the vastly different dollars spent.

My turbo is what most ppl would expect to be laggy, it aint a ball bearing Garret / IHI etc either. Im kinda keen to see someone put a manifold, gate and 2835 on an RB20 :)

I am only using my setup as a comparison as its the only 350-420hp turbo setup on a std RB20 that i have a dyno plot for in 4th gear.

Comparing dyno results (not the most accurate approach i know, but its a start) In 4th gear at :

- 80km/h i have 5psi and 54rwkws vs your 45rwkws @ 6psi

- 95km/h i have 8.5psi and 78rwkws vs your 87rwkws @ 12psi

- 110km/h i have 17psi and 150rwkws vs your 125rwkws @15psi

- 125km/h i have 18psi and 204rwkws vs your 150rwkws @15psi

- 140km/h i have 18psi and 225rwkws vs your 180rwkws @14psi

- 155km/h i have 18psi and 234rwkws vs your 190rwkws @14psi

No doubt with a touch more boost, and the other mods you are considering, you will make more power...

But i plot in spreadhseets most RB20 dyno plots i see and i am starting to form the opinion that the RB20 it is never going to be a power house down low. Put a little 320hp turbo (2510-2530, GT-SS etc)on it and it will make a few more rwkws before 4,000rpm, but after 4,00rpm it will be comfortably overtaken by a slightly larger turbo.

And with too big a turbo, say 600ho GT30 it is never going to flow the numbers it should. So has that lack of low end mid-range, only never to deliver above 5,000rpm to make up for the deficit.

But if you size a turbo around the 350-420hp turbo it seems smack bang what i would consider a good compromise for response, mid range and a top end that gives the little RB20 that real turbo feel / flavour.

There are no doubts exceptions to the rule, and this is only an opinion i have formed based on results seen in this thread, but at the minute i think its a pretty sound theory. ;)

So what was i saying, :D lol, yeh dont be afraid of turbos liek 2535s on Rb20s, who is going to be the first to try the GT-RS :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

throw some cash this way, ill try it!

lol

wat im proud of roy is making that power on basically nothing but r33 turbo, exhaust, fmic, boost....

with minimal cost

turbo 350

exhaust 700

fmic 500

boost 50

everything has been installed by myself

so ill be proud to hit 200+ at a total cost to me of $2500ish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-7066-1123497253.jpgpost-7066-1123497319.jpgHi Roy

I agree with your statement that the rb20 will never have heaps of power down low and differing turbos will make different power though i do beleive that turbo positioning may also play a part in this though not to sure as there are the high mounts like yours the standard mid mount type and then there's the low mount type like mine with my to4e which even after the last turbo rebuild they still recon isnt flowing enough for the engine don't know how though its big enough anyway getting back onto subject yours is producing unreal hp with the mods you have i would have like to see what it would produce on and engine with cams and ported head adjustable cam gears 55occ injectors it could be a big hp producer as my last dyno graph no longer appears in this thread i'll repost it as you will see i think the hp with standard boost is really good so id have to say it has a lot to do with cams etc and still returning excellant fuel econamy just my thoughts anyway

Cheers Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i like it!

with the cam gears on mine i got more of a punch mid range.

where do you have your cam gears set?

i have a gt30 on mine and it is way to laggy, in hindsight i probably should have gone with a 2530 or 2535.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does depend on who tunes the stock ecu, generally with the pfc you will pick up mid and possibly a little top end with say a pfc as the tuner is able to push it closer to the edge with the use of the pfc's knock feedback.

I.e Chris32.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-7066-1123497253.jpgpost-7066-1123497319.jpg...though i do beleive that turbo positioning may  also play a part in this though not to sure as there are the high mounts like yours the standard mid mount type and then there's the low mount type like mine with my to4e

Yeh , thats my thinking as well, that the RB20 really benefits from a nice manifold. Also on paper i think the low mount would work a bit better as the exhaust flow out of the turbo would have less bends and be a straighter path...though who can really say for sure the performance difference between the two.

No headwork for me, but i am going to be trialling some locally reground cams in the near future...if they work well im sure to be posting up the results. If they dont work as well as i hope then ill suck it in and get the Poncams/HKS...its just that im kinda curious how these other sticks will go as others have now trialled HKS/Poncams with good results, so will see if the cat still gets skinned when trying something a little different

As for 190rwkws from an R33 turbo, and chipped ECU, thats good bang for dollar, its kinda depressing actually. Be good to see ppl making the same power as RB25s with 500cc less, half a point less compression but the same turbo.

Actually this is going to be way interesting...come on get those cam gears and tunes going, will be very interesting to see the difference in power curve between a std turb R33 making 200rwkws and an RB20 with R33 turb making 200rwkws :P

It may help put into perspective all the claims that the RB20 is gutless, lacks torque etc, as i dont think they are near as bad as ppl make out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

throw some cash this way, ill try it!

lol

wat im proud of roy is making that power on basically nothing but r33 turbo, exhaust, fmic, boost....

with minimal cost

turbo 350

exhaust 700

fmic 500

boost 50

everything has been installed by myself

so ill be proud to hit 200+ at a total cost to me of $2500ish

Yeh but what about that bloody front bar you have that should have been mine...thats good for a few kws....i dont think i will ever swallow that deal you got with that bar...im still looking :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

legend01.....

What are the specs of your to4E and is it internal or external gated?

Your graphs look virtually identical to mine except my high boost setting is a little lower.

Mine is internal gated T3/T04E. T04 compressor housing and wheels and a T3 exhaust housing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As for 190rwkws from an R33 turbo, and chipped ECU, thats good bang for dollar, its kinda depressing actually. Be good to see ppl making the same power as RB25s with 500cc less, half a point less compression but the same turbo.

I agree about it being depressing roy, spent about 6k with all mods and tuning for the car and making [email protected] what fun those 207kw are!! :P

if anyone can get your hands on a HKS cast manifold.......i'll try it. And i'm hunting around for some 256 or 260 cams for mine to see if it make any difference to the 2530.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FATGTS-R

the turbo started out as a hks t4 had it rebuilt and hiflowed but that proved not to flow enough so it went back in and had a .63 exhaust housing fitted but had to be machined to take the exhaust impeller wheel as the hks item was to big and was kept on there advice the compressor side of things have been hi-flowed it a 50ar housing been machined for a 59 inducer wheel all bolted up on a hks cast low mount manifold with a 35mm hks external waste gate

Cheers Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, yeah, nah. Speakers have a nominal impedance of 8 ohm that looks more like 6.4 ohm when measured. The receiver's amplifiers (all channels) are all rated to 6 ohm (I think, it's been a long time since I cared). The real problem is that many modern class D amps have aggressive protection circuitry that cuts off the fun if they think too much current is being drawn. And with my speakers having series crossovers, as opposed to more typical parallel crossovers, and big TL enclosures, they can certainly dip down to lower impedances at some frequencies and that easily triggers the protection. Pioneer receivers are somewhat famous for it, but even Denon, Onkyo, et al, all have many complaints against them across various models. It only does it when listening to music at high levels. You have to be putting your ears at risk to do it. But sometimes I want to do that. If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.
    • yeah pretty much, stopped playing after lightfall, couldnt be bothered with the final shape...  ran that game into the ground for years... bit of a shame.. the  story was awesome. was playing a lot of trials but the hackers became tooo much, ruined the game.  
    • This is why you don't get invited to press events.         Kodi
    • For example, you’ll need this approval if: you’re a car enthusiast looking to import a specialist vehicle or an older car you want to bring your vehicle with you when you move to Australia you manufacture or import special purpose vehicles or a small number of trailers each year.       Tutuapp 9Apps
    • I reckon you are 100% right on the money. The only reason I bought Red Sport instead of the base VR30 is that I am investigating racing it in Production Cars, and they require you to run a (mostly) standard car....therefore knowing exactly what was in the RS spec was important to me and I paid the extra. Other than that, for sure I would have pocketed the $10k and spent them on mods instead. Plus the non-RS models are more likely to have had a nicer life prior. Just a warning though, mods always cost twice as much as they look like they will on paper BTW you should also consider the 400R imports, they are about the same price as a local RS but 5+ years newer. Of course that comes with the usual warnings about finding parts, unhelpful nissan dealers and finding insurance
×
×
  • Create New...