Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh looking forward to getting 200+ with no major mods

there isnt a whole lot left in the R33 turbo im afraid if your on the 14/15psi mark now with it.

1-2psi more and i think thats where the power increase will stop (if it isnt there already)... and where the wheel spitting will occur :P

there isnt a whole lot left in the R33 turbo im afraid if your on the 14/15psi mark now with it.

1-2psi more and i think thats where the power increase will stop (if it isnt there already)... and where the wheel spitting will occur  :P

Id say this is true. Last time i was on a dyno i tried 1 bar = 183rwkw and 1.1 bar = 185rwkw

Ok, just posting a brief update on my car.

Took it out for the cars and also my first quarter mile action at Heathcote.

Really really bad axle tramp and wheelspin. The car was shaking so hard the boost gauge rattled off the dash! LOL. Couldnt do better than 2.5 60 footers. My initial plan was to crack 13s and 110mph. But just missed out on both. Ran 14.2/3 every run and 108-109mph.

Popped my drag cherry and will attack calder asap.

Ah yes R&D on a RB20 to make big power is good. makes you use ur brain than just opening your wallet. will make the end result (if all works out lol) more rewarding.

When is this thing goign to be finished. If someone can get decent numbers out of an RB20 then i may bother sinkign a couple of hundered a month into my spare RB20, though i dont see my TD06-20G ever cracking 270-280rwkws no matter what head/cams mods i run:blink:

lol yes ROY this build has been going on for a while, but ive turned a car i used in a wedding into a drift machine and that takes money. so stay tuned. i was going to do the engine first but decided to start at the rear and work forward. once i start on the engine it will only take a few weeks and it will be back in and making some numbers. I can pretty much promise you it will crack 300rwkw. its just a matter of having the spare time and money.

Close to the 200rwkw mark. Got a tune the other day and got 255 rwhp @ 1bar. Was hoping for more like 290ish but will have to wait for new fuel pump to go in! hopefully next weekend.

Has HKS 2530

32 gtr cooler

550? injectors

z32

lumpyrom retune/remap

Had magor ping before tune and had troubles getting it to the stage where it wouldnt. Was told fuel pump should cure this so am putting in bosch 023. What sort of boost are others with a 2530 running? I was thinking of going to 1.1 bar but would like to see 300rwhp.

r32 rb20det (late model) swapped into USA s14 chassis

RIPS intake mani

tomei 260/8.8 cams

greddy cam gears (currently zeroed out)

gt30r turbo with .63ar turbine

550 supra injectors

fmic 24x3.5x6

hks exh mani and gate

retuned ecu for injectors and z32 maf with tweaked timing map

from the looks of it the lag is proly caused by the lean condition on spool up, once i get my biki rom from bad biki life should be much better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...