Jump to content
SAU Community

Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?


Recommended Posts

yeh looking forward to getting 200+ with no major mods

there isnt a whole lot left in the R33 turbo im afraid if your on the 14/15psi mark now with it.

1-2psi more and i think thats where the power increase will stop (if it isnt there already)... and where the wheel spitting will occur :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there isnt a whole lot left in the R33 turbo im afraid if your on the 14/15psi mark now with it.

1-2psi more and i think thats where the power increase will stop (if it isnt there already)... and where the wheel spitting will occur  :P

Id say this is true. Last time i was on a dyno i tried 1 bar = 183rwkw and 1.1 bar = 185rwkw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, just posting a brief update on my car.

Took it out for the cars and also my first quarter mile action at Heathcote.

Really really bad axle tramp and wheelspin. The car was shaking so hard the boost gauge rattled off the dash! LOL. Couldnt do better than 2.5 60 footers. My initial plan was to crack 13s and 110mph. But just missed out on both. Ran 14.2/3 every run and 108-109mph.

Popped my drag cherry and will attack calder asap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah yes R&D on a RB20 to make big power is good. makes you use ur brain than just opening your wallet. will make the end result (if all works out lol) more rewarding.

When is this thing goign to be finished. If someone can get decent numbers out of an RB20 then i may bother sinkign a couple of hundered a month into my spare RB20, though i dont see my TD06-20G ever cracking 270-280rwkws no matter what head/cams mods i run:blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol yes ROY this build has been going on for a while, but ive turned a car i used in a wedding into a drift machine and that takes money. so stay tuned. i was going to do the engine first but decided to start at the rear and work forward. once i start on the engine it will only take a few weeks and it will be back in and making some numbers. I can pretty much promise you it will crack 300rwkw. its just a matter of having the spare time and money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Close to the 200rwkw mark. Got a tune the other day and got 255 rwhp @ 1bar. Was hoping for more like 290ish but will have to wait for new fuel pump to go in! hopefully next weekend.

Has HKS 2530

32 gtr cooler

550? injectors

z32

lumpyrom retune/remap

Had magor ping before tune and had troubles getting it to the stage where it wouldnt. Was told fuel pump should cure this so am putting in bosch 023. What sort of boost are others with a 2530 running? I was thinking of going to 1.1 bar but would like to see 300rwhp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

r32 rb20det (late model) swapped into USA s14 chassis

RIPS intake mani

tomei 260/8.8 cams

greddy cam gears (currently zeroed out)

gt30r turbo with .63ar turbine

550 supra injectors

fmic 24x3.5x6

hks exh mani and gate

retuned ecu for injectors and z32 maf with tweaked timing map

from the looks of it the lag is proly caused by the lean condition on spool up, once i get my biki rom from bad biki life should be much better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
×
×
  • Create New...