Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant say that the engine will happily rev that hard forever, but the last couple of track days and a skidpan day i have been using about 8,200-8,300rpm (cant remember exactly).

I have my multi stage shift lights set between 7,500 and 8,150rpm. Im amazed how much i need the shift lights as with the external gate and the revs im pulling, my instinct is to grab gears way sooner...as it sounds like its about to take off into orbit. So i shift on the 8,150rpm light...and so far so good...

Though that want at that high a boost level, when i start runnign 20psi, i will pull the rev limit back to abtou 7,500rp, with perhaps one lap where i stretch it out all the way to 8,000rpm.

Quincy, the setup you have is one that is awesome. The power you have is very good and smack on the limit of pump fuel for your displacement from what I have gathered. Any more mods may yield you a little bit more power....but they will be much more expensive and plus youll lose drivability......I decided to stop at the stage im at with my NA block FJ20.....as 230rwkw aint bad on pump and high compression. The money involved in getting more oout of it just aint worth it.....displacement is the key for cheap power!!!

Well DONE again, its da shit!

Edited by 180bfj20det
ive found that my oil pump isnt too happy with me right now, fine metalic in the filter.

have been limiting trips to 8k and running 20w50 oil in the car and she seems to be doing better.

So you think its the oil pump thats causing the swarf in the engine?

When do you think you are going to get the tune / ignition sorted on your car? Im curious to know how much better response you can get ouyt of your turbo setup?

It seems you have about

- 100rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 160rwkws @ 4,900rpm

- 220rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 240rwkws @ 6,100rpm

- 280rwkws @ 7,300rpm

Do you think your setup when tweaked will better :

- 195rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 219rwkws @ 5,000rpm

- 224rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 234rwkws @ 6,250rpm

Just curious to know how much improvement in response is left in it, and also what boost level you were running when you pulle the 280rwkws?

So you think its the oil pump thats causing the swarf in the engine?

When do you think you are going to get the tune / ignition sorted on your car? Im curious to know how much better response you can get ouyt of your turbo setup?

It seems you have about

- 100rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 160rwkws @ 4,900rpm

- 220rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 240rwkws @ 6,100rpm

- 280rwkws @ 7,300rpm

Do you think your setup when tweaked will better :

- 195rwkws @ 4,500rpm 

- 219rwkws @ 5,000rpm 

- 224rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 234rwkws @ 6,250rpm 

Just curious to know how much improvement in response is left in it, and also what boost level you were running when you pulle the 280rwkws?

yeah i think that the oilpump is culprit because when i drain oil out of the sump its free of metalic where as when i pull the filter it drains off very fine flake......

as far as turbo response its a given that since this is a large turbo on a 20 its gonna be a bit laggy but im almost postive that with more fuel on spool up and some cam tweaking i should get a better response and more power over all.

right now as it stands im not making good power because of the emanage, the ecu has a hot timing map and by using the emanage it just messes it up so that its in the wrong spots on the maps........

ive got a BIKIrom on order from lucas in australia but being in the us means i get to wait for parts........however if i can enrichen the actual fuel map then i should see an even better response and more power under the curve which would make my day.

as for boost when i pulled 288rwkw it was at 17psi, so moderate boost levels with room to go......

Anyone here decreased the diameter of there intake pipes to increase spool time.

As you all know I am getting 1 bar at about 4rpm and not gett max power until 8250rpm. @ 22psi

If I decreased intake from 2 1/4 down to 2 inch would this help response and spool further AND choke the turbo earlier so peak can be made near 7500rpm not 8250rpm.

Cheers

Looking at you r boost curve...im guessing something can be done to improve response based around a better form of boost control. It seems to ramp up onto boost then the gradient slows, when normally its the opposite, isnt it?

I wouldnt go decreasing the diam of pipes though.

Also the dyno says 15psi at 145km/h, thats up around 5,000rpm isnt it?

I friend may have one for sale. I use to have the 10cm housing, i went to an 8cm housing and think its the way to go.

TD06_Plot.jpg

So if your making 260-280rwks , about the limit of the turbo allowing for differences in dynos...then id say there is jack in it with regards to the smaller housing being a restriction on a 2L

If the 8cm housing caused too much back pressure, i dont think the above plots would look like they do.

Its easy to drill and tap the exhaust housing and put a pressure gauge in there to see what the back pressure is....and when your don use the threaded hole for an EGT

And all my talk about the rpm at which my car makes boost, well i dont think its as responsive as the above plot suggests. The above uses a calculation to convert road speed to rpm, and i suspect the data on Dunlops website for the tyres i run is incorrect, or the tyres distort on the rollers chanding the gearing ?!?!?!?

But my dyno run was too the limiter which i think was set at 7,800rpm Using my calc it only goes to 7,000rpm for 182km/h which isnt right.

Next day at the track ill get the data from the data logger so that i can see rpm vs boost for each gear...that is far more accurate rather then converting road speed.

yeah i will be putting a pressure gauge in the manifold to measure back pressure during tuning, to much back pressure = heat and heat = damaged head and valves, not what you want when u have spent a lot of money on the head.

Edited by boostn32

after wanting to burn my car, i have finally got a decent power figure-244rwkw. this is with standard motor, standard cams and cam gears set at 5 degrees advance. my gtr injectors are now at 100% duty cycle, does anyone know what is the maximum duty cycle that is safe to run. i have no idea how to post up the dyno sheet.

after wanting to burn my car, i have finally got a decent power figure-244rwkw. this is with standard motor, standard cams and cam gears set at 5 degrees advance. my gtr injectors are now at 100% duty cycle, does anyone know what is the maximum duty cycle that is safe to run. i have no idea how to post up the dyno sheet.

well over here stateside we like to run ours at about 80-85%, i know some guys in japan and nz will push it up to 95% but thats just too much, the injector needs time to cycle and cool.

right now as it stands im not making good power because of the emanage, the ecu has a hot timing map and by using the emanage it just messes it up so that its in the wrong spots on the maps........

Hi Carl, can you give us any more info on this problem? Are you simply using the EManage to bend the AFM voltages? How much correction do you have loaded? What about ignition timing? Bascially any extra info you have would be useful.

:( cheers :)

PS, I would get the oil tested (Castrol Technical do it), that will tell you what metal it is in the oil filter. It would be nice to know if it's not bearing material.

well over here stateside we like to run ours at about 80-85%, i know some guys in japan and nz will push it up to 95% but thats just too much, the injector needs time to cycle and cool.

well i could probably turn my fuel preasure up and reduce my milli seconds but it will probably stuff up the map. is there any way to do this accurately without putting it back on the dyno?

Hi Carl, can you give us any more info on this problem?  Are you simply using the EManage to bend the AFM voltages?  How much correction do you have loaded?  What about ignition timing?  Bascially any extra info you have would be useful.

:D cheers :D

PS, I would get the oil tested (Castrol Technical do it), that will tell you what metal it is in the oil filter.  It would be nice to know if it's not bearing material.

hehe, yeah there is a place here stateside that will test oil for whats floating around in it......

yeah im using the emanage to fork with the maf signal (which it does do well) but since the ecu has an agressive timing map (actualy on the ecu) forking around with the maf voltage makes it feel terrible if i do it too much.

if i dont use the emanage to correct it runs too lean due to the timing map...... so its a catch 22 untill i can get the biki rom where i can see where i am on the maps.

there isnt that much correction on the map like +10 pts which isnt too terribly much but its enough to fork with the signal enough to really make it feel weird.

from what it looks like i might be able to get full boost at 4k assuming i can add fuel in the right spots (which i cant do with the emanage right now) and it should have a fairly beast/wide power curve if i can get it that way......

i will let you guys know my results tho for sure, because once the car spools its frightenly quick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...