Jump to content
SAU Community

Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?


Recommended Posts

I cant say that the engine will happily rev that hard forever, but the last couple of track days and a skidpan day i have been using about 8,200-8,300rpm (cant remember exactly).

I have my multi stage shift lights set between 7,500 and 8,150rpm. Im amazed how much i need the shift lights as with the external gate and the revs im pulling, my instinct is to grab gears way sooner...as it sounds like its about to take off into orbit. So i shift on the 8,150rpm light...and so far so good...

Though that want at that high a boost level, when i start runnign 20psi, i will pull the rev limit back to abtou 7,500rp, with perhaps one lap where i stretch it out all the way to 8,000rpm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quincy, the setup you have is one that is awesome. The power you have is very good and smack on the limit of pump fuel for your displacement from what I have gathered. Any more mods may yield you a little bit more power....but they will be much more expensive and plus youll lose drivability......I decided to stop at the stage im at with my NA block FJ20.....as 230rwkw aint bad on pump and high compression. The money involved in getting more oout of it just aint worth it.....displacement is the key for cheap power!!!

Well DONE again, its da shit!

Edited by 180bfj20det
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive found that my oil pump isnt too happy with me right now, fine metalic in the filter.

have been limiting trips to 8k and running 20w50 oil in the car and she seems to be doing better.

So you think its the oil pump thats causing the swarf in the engine?

When do you think you are going to get the tune / ignition sorted on your car? Im curious to know how much better response you can get ouyt of your turbo setup?

It seems you have about

- 100rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 160rwkws @ 4,900rpm

- 220rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 240rwkws @ 6,100rpm

- 280rwkws @ 7,300rpm

Do you think your setup when tweaked will better :

- 195rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 219rwkws @ 5,000rpm

- 224rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 234rwkws @ 6,250rpm

Just curious to know how much improvement in response is left in it, and also what boost level you were running when you pulle the 280rwkws?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you think its the oil pump thats causing the swarf in the engine?

When do you think you are going to get the tune / ignition sorted on your car? Im curious to know how much better response you can get ouyt of your turbo setup?

It seems you have about

- 100rwkws @ 4,500rpm

- 160rwkws @ 4,900rpm

- 220rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 240rwkws @ 6,100rpm

- 280rwkws @ 7,300rpm

Do you think your setup when tweaked will better :

- 195rwkws @ 4,500rpm 

- 219rwkws @ 5,000rpm 

- 224rwkws @ 5,500rpm

- 234rwkws @ 6,250rpm 

Just curious to know how much improvement in response is left in it, and also what boost level you were running when you pulle the 280rwkws?

yeah i think that the oilpump is culprit because when i drain oil out of the sump its free of metalic where as when i pull the filter it drains off very fine flake......

as far as turbo response its a given that since this is a large turbo on a 20 its gonna be a bit laggy but im almost postive that with more fuel on spool up and some cam tweaking i should get a better response and more power over all.

right now as it stands im not making good power because of the emanage, the ecu has a hot timing map and by using the emanage it just messes it up so that its in the wrong spots on the maps........

ive got a BIKIrom on order from lucas in australia but being in the us means i get to wait for parts........however if i can enrichen the actual fuel map then i should see an even better response and more power under the curve which would make my day.

as for boost when i pulled 288rwkw it was at 17psi, so moderate boost levels with room to go......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone here decreased the diameter of there intake pipes to increase spool time.

As you all know I am getting 1 bar at about 4rpm and not gett max power until 8250rpm. @ 22psi

If I decreased intake from 2 1/4 down to 2 inch would this help response and spool further AND choke the turbo earlier so peak can be made near 7500rpm not 8250rpm.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at you r boost curve...im guessing something can be done to improve response based around a better form of boost control. It seems to ramp up onto boost then the gradient slows, when normally its the opposite, isnt it?

I wouldnt go decreasing the diam of pipes though.

Also the dyno says 15psi at 145km/h, thats up around 5,000rpm isnt it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I friend may have one for sale. I use to have the 10cm housing, i went to an 8cm housing and think its the way to go.

TD06_Plot.jpg

So if your making 260-280rwks , about the limit of the turbo allowing for differences in dynos...then id say there is jack in it with regards to the smaller housing being a restriction on a 2L

If the 8cm housing caused too much back pressure, i dont think the above plots would look like they do.

Its easy to drill and tap the exhaust housing and put a pressure gauge in there to see what the back pressure is....and when your don use the threaded hole for an EGT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And all my talk about the rpm at which my car makes boost, well i dont think its as responsive as the above plot suggests. The above uses a calculation to convert road speed to rpm, and i suspect the data on Dunlops website for the tyres i run is incorrect, or the tyres distort on the rollers chanding the gearing ?!?!?!?

But my dyno run was too the limiter which i think was set at 7,800rpm Using my calc it only goes to 7,000rpm for 182km/h which isnt right.

Next day at the track ill get the data from the data logger so that i can see rpm vs boost for each gear...that is far more accurate rather then converting road speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i will be putting a pressure gauge in the manifold to measure back pressure during tuning, to much back pressure = heat and heat = damaged head and valves, not what you want when u have spent a lot of money on the head.

Edited by boostn32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

after wanting to burn my car, i have finally got a decent power figure-244rwkw. this is with standard motor, standard cams and cam gears set at 5 degrees advance. my gtr injectors are now at 100% duty cycle, does anyone know what is the maximum duty cycle that is safe to run. i have no idea how to post up the dyno sheet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

after wanting to burn my car, i have finally got a decent power figure-244rwkw. this is with standard motor, standard cams and cam gears set at 5 degrees advance. my gtr injectors are now at 100% duty cycle, does anyone know what is the maximum duty cycle that is safe to run. i have no idea how to post up the dyno sheet.

well over here stateside we like to run ours at about 80-85%, i know some guys in japan and nz will push it up to 95% but thats just too much, the injector needs time to cycle and cool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

right now as it stands im not making good power because of the emanage, the ecu has a hot timing map and by using the emanage it just messes it up so that its in the wrong spots on the maps........

Hi Carl, can you give us any more info on this problem? Are you simply using the EManage to bend the AFM voltages? How much correction do you have loaded? What about ignition timing? Bascially any extra info you have would be useful.

:( cheers :)

PS, I would get the oil tested (Castrol Technical do it), that will tell you what metal it is in the oil filter. It would be nice to know if it's not bearing material.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well over here stateside we like to run ours at about 80-85%, i know some guys in japan and nz will push it up to 95% but thats just too much, the injector needs time to cycle and cool.

well i could probably turn my fuel preasure up and reduce my milli seconds but it will probably stuff up the map. is there any way to do this accurately without putting it back on the dyno?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Carl, can you give us any more info on this problem?  Are you simply using the EManage to bend the AFM voltages?  How much correction do you have loaded?  What about ignition timing?  Bascially any extra info you have would be useful.

:D cheers :D

PS, I would get the oil tested (Castrol Technical do it), that will tell you what metal it is in the oil filter.  It would be nice to know if it's not bearing material.

hehe, yeah there is a place here stateside that will test oil for whats floating around in it......

yeah im using the emanage to fork with the maf signal (which it does do well) but since the ecu has an agressive timing map (actualy on the ecu) forking around with the maf voltage makes it feel terrible if i do it too much.

if i dont use the emanage to correct it runs too lean due to the timing map...... so its a catch 22 untill i can get the biki rom where i can see where i am on the maps.

there isnt that much correction on the map like +10 pts which isnt too terribly much but its enough to fork with the signal enough to really make it feel weird.

from what it looks like i might be able to get full boost at 4k assuming i can add fuel in the right spots (which i cant do with the emanage right now) and it should have a fairly beast/wide power curve if i can get it that way......

i will let you guys know my results tho for sure, because once the car spools its frightenly quick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...