Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?

[Interloper]

mine's arnt the best example of a remap, and sam used his new software on my car.. no one could figure out the probelm, not even the software designer..

its up to you what you do in the end how much u can afford etc,,

if you managed to get a year out of the remap then cut your loses...

really!!!!!!!!!!!1 think about it! also remember that even if you get a pfc, ap engineering fc are in demand and a second hand one you could always sell easily in the end

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what do you mean - "if you managed to get a year out of the remap.." how long did you have your remap for before you changed to the fcon?

So out of interest, what was your biggest problem with the remap?

Cheers.

[Roy]

That is crazy rich. Makes you think how much power is left in it getting better control of the A/Fs?

Also compared to Dyno Dynamics, how do the dyno that Dr Drift use compare? Higher , lower? Also the manifold pressure, i recall reading on another thread that its absolute pressure not gauge pressure. Can anyone confirm this?

[Interloper]

Also compared to Dyno Dynamics, how do the dyno that Dr Drift use compare? Higher , lower?  Also the manifold pressure, i recall reading on another thread that its absolute pressure not gauge pressure. Can anyone confirm this?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you want to compare then theres a dyno night on this wednesday 8th - tomorrow. starts 8pm. $30.

IMO, its pretty similar to a dyno dynamics in shootout mode, but this dyno is brand new so no one can say 4 sure.

Would be great to see your set up on that dyno tomorrow Troy, would give me a figure to aim for!

Cheers.

[Roy]

My car isnt even running the last time i saw it and im OS at the moment...so cant make it. Otherwise I would like to...as im curious to know the difference between 18psi vs 21psi

[Interloper]

My car isnt even running the last time i saw it and im OS at the moment...so cant make it. Othersie would like to...as im curios to know the difference between 18psi vs 21psi

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Oh, but don't worry there will be plenty of dyno days there in the near future!

I think SAU Vic will be having one very soon there. If Ash can finalise a date

[silver gts-t]

what do you mean - "if you managed to get a year out of the remap.." how long did you have your remap for before you changed to the fcon?

So out of interest, what was your biggest problem with the remap?

Cheers.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what i mean is that if u have had the remap for a year, then its done its time, you got your moneys worth, get an fc now, lol

dont u think its odd that after a year and its still not tuned correctly?

if it was up to me i would have gotten rid of the remap after the first tune, but i was told the same thing as you "ill fix it for free" which is good... but its never fixed!

[Gts-t]

what i mean is that if u have had the remap for a year, then its done its time, you got your moneys worth, get an fc now, lol

dont u think its odd that after a year and its still not tuned correctly?

if it was up to me i would have gotten rid of the remap after the first tune, but i was told the same thing as you "ill fix it for free" which is good... but its never fixed!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I think your being a bit hasty with your comments about Sam. I took my car to him about two weeks ago and was very impressed. My car was on the dyno for close to 3 hours and he charged me $350 including putting in a z32 afm.

He was great to deal with and kept me involved in what he was doing, in my case he spared no effort in getting the very best tune possible.

I say stay with the remap because he does produce excellent results, i know i will be having him retune the ecu for a rb25/30 in the future.

Dyno graph from his work on my car can be seen in the sticky rb20 turbo upgrade thread.

[FATGTS-R]

I work 2 minutes from Sams shop so might go get a run done if I finish work in time. Just had mine tuned on a DD so will be interesting to see what happens. As long as the ramp rate is fast and they have the sniffer up the pipe I will go on. I am a bit paranoid of slow ramping dynos like autosalon melbourne, they make me cringe.

[Interloper]

I work 2 minutes from Sams shop so might go get a run done if I finish work in time. Just had mine tuned on a DD so will be interesting to see what happens. As long as the ramp rate is fast and they have the sniffer up the pipe I will go on. I am a bit paranoid of slow ramping dynos like autosalon melbourne, they make me cringe.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

why is that? is there a greater chance of knocking occuring under a sustained load, where it could be different to a normal road scenario?

[rb20powersilvia]

My cars in the smash repaire's getting work done and a paint job. Im thinking now is a good time to take out the engine and give it a good freshen up bottom end and maybe head.

Ive read the engine is capable of making 400hp. im aiming at 280kw atw well around that figure and i wanna know what should i do to the bottom end without putting a big hole in the wallet.

My mechanic told me nitrate the crank and something else to do with it.

Also new bearings and rings. But if the bores have score marks, will have to bore it out and get oversized pistons.

Can anyone recommend or give me any advice on what i should do to the bottom end without going to crazy as ive read even the standard bottom end with more then 100,000km's travell'd can get a little more than 300kw's atw.

Is there a midway between standard pistons and forgies?

Will prepping the rods be fine?

Will the rb20 gearbox hold up with the occassional squirt of this power.

Cheers.

[Roy]

Best talk to the ppl who are going to build your engine. Just be sure to get someone with a little experience with RBs. If you go against their advice then its the perfect get out of jail card for them "we never would have used/done that"

Which is cool...if you are willing to bet that anything you know or read on the forum is more factual then your engine builders info????...but ying and yang.

If they build an engine for you, you want them to be standing by their claim that it will do the job....wouldnt you?

That said

New bearings, check and balance all the bits that go up and down. Use good bolts and gaskets. Make sure your oil/water pumps are healthy.

And for that power, and you are stripping it then id say get some 40thou oversized pistons. If you can find 120thou oversized pistons at a similar price even better.

Last thing i will say, a good engine needs good ingredients + good understanding of the art of clearances etc that specific engines like.

Me like a few others could probably say a few things about some ingredients that others have made reliable power with, but doesnt mean the cook wont spoil the broth

I cant build an engine for quids, and im too tight to pay someone for the labour...so im hapy to keep pushing to see what a std RB20 can make:)

[rb20powersilvia]

Thanks for the info/help roy. Any one else have any info or experiance they would like to share? Has anyone had some head work done? Ive seen in this thread the head can let th engine down.How much would be a reasonable amount to pay and how far to go, just port polish or valve springs and things like that.

Thanks for any help

[Bl4cK32]

yer, rb cranks are nitrided from the factory, so it sounds like your engine builder hasnt worked on rb's before

About $200 on headwork (port'n'polish) is all you wanna spend. any more and it becomes expensive, and not worth the $$ spent for anymore gains.

[TurboX]

About $200 on headwork (port'n'polish) is all you wanna spend. any more and it becomes expensive, and not worth the $$ spent for anymore gains.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hmm... 24 ports / bowls - $200/24= $8.33 each valve bowl and port to be spent

Average Mechanic charges $75 - $120 P/Hr Say $100 = 60Min or $1.66 a Minute

$8.33 / $1.66 = 5 Minutes for each port and bowl should get you a real bargain.

If you live in the real world and go to someone like "The Head Stud" who have been doing this as a specialty for many years dont be surprised on the quote you will get.

Unfortunately I cant quantify the gains I got from the extensive work they carried out -THEN the twenty hours of work I did my self to the chambers to unshroud the sunken valvesHERE if your interested

One day we will probably fit this head to our drag car then maybe we can quote a actuall gain from all the work and expense but till then I probably have to agree head work is probably the last thing you should spend your money on.

[boostn32]

head work is not cheap, mine coast me about 2k with cams. if i wanted to go any further i would have to get over size valves, and since u need 24 of them it starts getting damn expensive.

all my machine work for the bottom end cost me around 1400, including bearings and arp rod bolts.

oh and i DID NOT USE RB20 MAIN BEARINGS, i used RB26 mains and the block was modified for extra oilling for the bearings. makes for a safer 8500 rev limiter

[Bl4cK32]

Well when cubes and myself had our heads rebuilt and ported etc, they did the full rebuild for around $700. For an extra $200 they did exactly what u said you had done to your head - 3 angle valve job, deshroud etc.

Ive got pics (or cubes has) of the finished job, and they reckon its good to flow around 700hp i think from memory.

The guys who done them have been doing it also for years, and they are expensive (they wanted over 8k for a full engine build), but their headwork was good and reasonably priced.

[Cubes]

The price was without valve stem seals, cam seals etc.. So slap another $270 on top and thats the real price of the rebuild.

All up mine came to $1070. I believe yours was $60 more due to shimming so yours was $1130.

I also remember Brenton said the 3 angle is only good for one of the inlet/exh. I forget which one, they did a different type of valve job on the other.

The cost of valve deshrouding, mild inlet port & cleanup, mild exh. port, cleanup & polish & valve jobs was up close to $500 from memory.

Then there was the rebuild being a few hundred + parts, being the vrs kit of $270.

Also don't forget this price was based on having 2 heads done at the same time....

Basically it was a stage 1 mild port with cleanup. If we were to go to the next stage we were told the bang for buck value spirals downwards, he said the rb25 heads flow awesome with a little playing here and tidying up there.. No need to go silly on them. BUT the RB20 head is a completely different story.. It needs all the help it can get.

Chris Milton Engineering is well known around the Group A circles for their headwork wizardy, so hardly cowboys.

A quick search shows a few results.... <clicky>

I don't believe massive mounts of porting is the key with the rb20 head as the ports are fairly well sized, its the valves that are the problem.

The R32 RB25's ports are not that much larger than the rb20's, you can even bolt up the rb20's inlet manifold without issues. The only real difference is the size of the valves, the rb25 inlets are 5mm bigger each and the exh. valves are the same size as the rb20's inlet valves.

I would rather spend a little cleaning up the head then the rest on a set of valves, the biggest I can fit. Much better off than spending thousands on port work when really its not the ports that are the problem.

[predator]

From what I've seen, the prices out in SA seem to be a fair bit less for this sort of thing (and well lots of other performance work) than the eastern states... Could have something to do with it..

[Bl4cK32]

good ol' cubes with the details

ive forgotten half the stuff we did on the build damn shorterm memory loss.....what was the question?

[Cubes]

What question... lol