Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Roy: on Mickey Thompsons 255/60/15, see attached time slip. I only got 1 run on the MTs as the previous 3 were on shity falken zeis... Next time im out im aiming for 11.999 (just so that i can say i have an 11sec unopened rb20).

thats exactly what i was hoping to run hahaha, first two runs on the brand new tyres *never launched on grippy tyres befor* i was only running 13/14 seconds because i couldnt get the launch right aka bog down

I finaly got it to launch with wheel spin through first but ran 12.05 so im more than happy to be so close to an 11.

standerd 20 box and rear cradle held up to the task which is anouther bonus :rolleyes:

heres a vid of the 12.05 run

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUBIE6C_OJc

Hey great work ppl. AD4M...any info on your RB20. Im going to have a go this Friday night (provided in can get some money to run the car) Have some worn but pretty new RE55s i can run so hope i can get around a 2.0 60ft and improve my previous 12.9

Roy as far as we know, and very confident on it.. the internals of the motor are as stock as they come, no cams, cam gears nouthing

it appears to be running the stock head gasket and the sump and oil pump dont show any signs of removal befor, we will be doing a comp test this weekend.

its very basic to an extent, trust td-06 with the 16c rear, EMS stinger ecu, 34 gtr injectors, tial 38mm gate, profec b spec II on 24psi high 20 low, 76mm china cooler kit then usual exhaust-intake stuff

maybe its just pure luck the motor is holding up or maybe the tuner hit the nail on the head with the tune :) the last run i had on the day after my 12.0 the car was having boost control issues. it appears the spring has lost its tension so i have no idea if it was running all 24psi for the 12.0 or if it was underboosting on the run

i can only hope the current package holds up for when the strip opens up again but pushing 20/24 psi into a stock motor will take its toll eventualy its only a matter of time till it pop's :D

do they prep the track for you guys over east for the street meets? i know they dont here and the best time i could manage on re01r potenza's was 13.1@ 113mph and shocking 60ftr with 2.2

Calder prep a track? LOL, i dont knwo what prepping the track is, but im pretty sure Calder wouldnt do it.

With 15psi i ran a 12.9 on my TD06 with 8cm rear. 2.2 60ft and 114mph. So based on the numbers you are running, in a perfect world it may be able to do an 11.9999. I know right now its running more boost and has never ran so well. So, looks like with the new diff i just need good tyres to be able to get down the 60ft time, as im pretty confident the car will easily run 3-5mph more then previously with upping the boost a little over the previous 15psi

What is the TD06 like with such a large housing on it. 24psi at 5,500rpm?

you'll run into the 12's, but a low 12 required stock rear strutts and coils, i ended up with positive camber on the back when we put them in which sqaured the tyres out on the launch.

and you'll need micky thompson e/t's

my 13.1 in street trim was on 20 psi aswell, when i up'd it to 24 i couldnt get it to hook up till 4th

the 16c rear isnt THAT bad hahaha, i see full boost 24psi by 4700.

Hmmm, theres some good time's being run here looks like im gonna havta hurry up and get this car of mine to the drags and learn how to drive it all over again

the 16c rear isnt THAT bad hahaha, i see full boost 24psi by 4700.

Interesting, i found when i webt 10cm t0 8cm i gained a lot of mid range

TD06_Plot.jpg

Different tuners too wirh me beinf far happier with the 8cm tune. So with the 16cm housing i imagine its worse again

At the risk of being a sceptic. Would you happen to have a dyno sheet using road speed rather then rpm. No doubt your thing has a good amount of stomp to be running the time you are. Its just that im really interested in seeing what the difference is between our setups as we are running the same turbos, only different exhaust housings.

You say your inlet pipe sucks close, so does that mean the dyn sheet stops for that reason rather then rev limit???? Does that mean you are still running std manifold? Also are you sure that the scale of the rpm on the dyno sheet is correct? If it is you will be makign way more then 366hp once you are able to rev the engine over 5,500rpm? Great results, just trying to get my head around your results so i can see how much is perhaps left in my setup

Last question...i cant readily read all the rubbish on a shootout dyno sheet. TN? What is that. Diff or final drive ratio?

2enqgwz.jpg

that was on the tuners dyno with the inlet pipe removed completly

yep thats what happend Roy, pipe sucked shut which chokes the motor becuase its getting fuel but no air. limiter is set at 7200 or close to that. i can only assume the scale is correct because as far as we know the ratios are still stock.

std inlet chamber and running a rb25 exhaust manifold, wastegate is mounted directly on the rear housing of the turbo

im not actualy sure on what TN is, i just told the operator its the std diff ratio and gear ratios.

Interesting, i found when i webt 10cm t0 8cm i gained a lot of mid range

Different tuners too wirh me beinf far happier with the 8cm tune. So with the 16cm housing i imagine its worse again

You'd think they bigger housing would help hold the power longer but it seems to drop off faster, why is that?

2enqgwz.jpg
gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

Your doing sh1t hot with such a large exhaust housing. The response doenst look too bad at all. Its a little down around the 4,000rpm point (about 105km/h) but catches up at 130km/h. But its making the numbers and top end. Just need to keep it over 5,000rpm. Shoudl really look at scoring a 10cm housing as no doubt it could be even better again. You are already getting good 60ft times so perhaps fattening up the 4,000-4,500rpm range is a waste of time. Top work oin the 12 flat...its so cool that a few of you are now doing those times :)

Also the power difference between 20psi vs 24psi is quite sizable. What sort of ignition are you running at the top end? LOL i want to know whether i can make another 20-25rwkws running the extra 4psi :(

haha cheers Roy :)

from what i recall when it was getting tuned, i asked for the boost to keep gettin put in and the only thing the tuner was touching was the fuel map making sure it was still safe. i know the base timing is set at 20degres but im not sure how he went about it in the map.. he was freaking out over the numbers it was pulling so i can only guess he wasnt touching the ignition to much.

theres no sign of detonation at all, and thats still running stock coils...! the ems has a function where you can increase the voltage output to them but we didnt need to touch it :(

dooo it Roy, im so keen to start seeing people REALLY leaning on there 20's, there a strong lil unit!

LOL...but i drive my car pretty hard at motorkhanas and track days so whilst i am 200% behind you in saying they are tough engines. I would be far more comfortable running 24psi on a drag strip then i would 20psi for 4 laps of a track. I ran 1.5bar at Sandown raceway last year and the engine didnt skip a beat. no blow by, no knock. Just headaches for the std diff :) But looking back thats a lot of boost for the over 8,000rpm rev limit i was using (Cant remember exactly, was 8,400-8,500rpm and you could hear me on the limiter in 2nd gear getting out of the slow corners onto the long straights.)

So, in hindsight whilst it all ran well, running that sort of boost/revs when your cylinder/combustion chambers etc is all getting hot with high coolant and oil temps, the engine is under big loads etc with laternal gs etc...well its a recipe to hurt a std motor at the track. Now at the drag strip i dont think its near as hard on the engine.

So when the lap times stop dropping the boost will go back up, perhaps with a better fuel to make better numbers to boot. But looking at my car now its pretty respectably quick without going ahead with the bigger displacement RB, so now getting the cotton wool and Bex ready for my current motor. It continues to surprise even me and i want it to last so that i can see how quick i can go at the track by getting the chassis/suspension up to the class of the motor.. :(

Oh and just found this

IT = inlet temperature

RT = reference temperature

RH = reference humidity

RP = reference pressure

TN = inertia setting

RR = ramp angle

PL = power loading

CK = check reference

So it looks like the rpm scale could be pretty right...so again, response is better then i would have ever imagined :)

Im really jelous of you guys at the moment and want to get my car back on the road ASAP and put some numbers up....

Ive been thinking about getting a quick dyno firgure before all the mods go on.... Currently the car is only running a pod filter, pipe from dump back and 14psi and it churned out 152rwkw back in the day.

I'll also be looking on closely and waiting to see this 11sec pass done... I'd be over the moon if my final results allow me to do that however im not holding my breathe, but will deff keep everyone up to date!

Had my first tune today with the new engine got 1500 klms on it so there more potential in it yet,tuner thinks the plenum is stoping it atm but very happy with the result

post-7066-1179388107_thumb.jpg

cheers Peter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...