Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Roy as far as we know, and very confident on it.. the internals of the motor are as stock as they come, no cams, cam gears nouthing

it appears to be running the stock head gasket and the sump and oil pump dont show any signs of removal befor, we will be doing a comp test this weekend.

its very basic to an extent, trust td-06 with the 16c rear, EMS stinger ecu, 34 gtr injectors, tial 38mm gate, profec b spec II on 24psi high 20 low, 76mm china cooler kit then usual exhaust-intake stuff

if the weather holds up for next wednesday im goin to return the car back to the drag setup and try and get a run in at the last street meet for the season, it feels like its a shit load faster now then when it was last on the track :)

im sorry but.. is there any outher 12.0 or lower unopened rb20 r32 in australia??

martini race fuel http://www.martiniracing.com.au/html/fuels110.htm thats what i'll be using if i choose to (at this moment i see pump fuel is a greater acheivement)

Sure is, my mates 32 which i sold on here a couple of years ago, ran a 11.8 @ 116mph. ON that run it popped the motor at 3/4 track but stayed into it.

That was stock motor, manifold, injectors & ecu (had a chip though). Was laggy as f**k but it ripped.

h.

Sure is, my mates 32 which i sold on here a couple of years ago, ran a 11.8 @ 116mph. ON that run it popped the motor at 3/4 track but stayed into it.

That was stock motor, manifold, injectors & ecu (had a chip though). Was laggy as f**k but it ripped.

h.

mint atleast i know what to aim for next week :P

conversion coming along slowly

i need some panel n paint done first

and a diff

finding a diff for a hr31 isn't easy!

then i can start collecting the cool stuff for conversion:)

i have front cut already though

What is wrong with the current diff in it?

R200 long noses are a mechanical 1 way diff from factory.

If its a single spinner get an LSD centre off a Z or similar and put your gearing in it...some new clutch packs and voila.....

That is what I am doing. Minus the LSD as I already have one.

If ya wanna know more speak to R31 Nizmoid or look at the array of info on the R31 club

hks 2835 is a nice turbo!

my mates s13 which i'm using atm has one on his sr

and i'm pretty sure the dude with the rb20 120y has done 11s adam and don't think he's opened the motor yet

i cant be bothered going for a look haha

I am running 20 thou low comp forgies... Top end is std tho :/ 11.0 @ 118

Juat reading through some of the first few pages of this thread. Around 30 months later its interesting to see how the goal posts have moved and thinking changed. 220rwkws with a GCG Hi Flow was thought to be about it for an RB20. We are now getting better response and more power out of them just by experimenting a little with setups.

If you could get the air in to the RB20DET with reasonable boost I think the RB20DET will hold 450hp no problems.

AD4M, lol 24psi is more then what i would call reasonable. But hey, its hanging together. Fingres crossed you pull some great times and it holds together.

Can i ask whether you think it will hold together at that boost? Or is it a matter of you not caring if she goes bang :/

Compressor:

- Wheel: 82mm w/ 56 trim

- Housing: .70 ar

- Type housing w/ 4" Inlet & 2.5" Outlet

This turbo incorporates the same GT40 compressor wheel found in the popular GT35, but runs the smaller 60mm w/84 trim turbine wheel from the GT30R. Appropriate for smaller engines where the GT35/40R feels too big, but the high amount of compressor flow is needed for the desired HP. Comes with a large T04S style compressor housing with 4.00 inlet and 2.50" outlet

These are the only spec's I could find on it

Cheers Peter

Whoops still logged on as daughterinlaw

if the weather holds up for next wednesday im goin to return the car back to the drag setup and try and get a run in at the last street meet for the season, it feels like its a shit load faster now then when it was last on the track :unsure:

Ill be watching this space closely !

Good Luck dude !!

QUOTE(RNS-11Z @ 24 May 2007, 02:00 PM)

Sure is, my mates 32 which i sold on here a couple of years ago, ran a 11.8 @ 116mph. ON that run it popped the motor at 3/4 track but stayed into it.

whats next... stock turbo? According to ur statement above it would have done an 11.3 if it hadnt blown 3/4 down the track.

Are we still talkin about a RB20?

Stock everything = 500HP LOLOL

Edited by jnr32r
What is wrong with the current diff in it?

R200 long noses are a mechanical 1 way diff from factory.

If its a single spinner get an LSD centre off a Z or similar and put your gearing in it...some new clutch packs and voila.....

That is what I am doing. Minus the LSD as I already have one.

If ya wanna know more speak to R31 Nizmoid or look at the array of info on the R31 club

i know all of the above but thanks anyway dude:)

car has been off the road for a while and i sold the factory lsd to a mate with plans of getting a aftermarket 2 way for it and i've been a member of the r31 club for a couple years now:)

thanks

AD4M, lol 24psi is more then what i would call reasonable. But hey, its hanging together. Fingres crossed you pull some great times and it holds together.

Can i ask whether you think it will hold together at that boost? Or is it a matter of you not caring if she goes bang :)

to tell you the truth Roy I'm not worried if it goes bang, got a few spares :unsure: the motor was running insanley rich but now its back into a more leaner tune so time will tell how it holds up

Yeh fair enough. I understand completely as im in the same boat. Happy to run 1.3bar with the occasional hits of 1.5bar as RB20s are so cheap and i have something better in the wings. But in no huury to throw in a stronger motor because at the moment the engine is faster then the suspension at the moment. So can go quicker yet once i get the suspension sorted. Something very satisfying about pulling away from built RB25s etc down the straights at the track :unsure:

Something very satisfying about pulling away from built RB25s etc down the straights at the track smile.gif

Haha this awesome feeling is what keeps u guys from going to rb25 or something :unsure: LOL

Edited by robots

roy mate i will be using the gt30r, the one with those specs which is the same core specs as the hks3037s

should be starting it tomorrow, need to tune it roughly and drivable, then off to JEM for the fine tune

i have:

autronic ecu 550cc rx7 series 5 injectors 044 pump CPC plenum port polished head/manifold 1mm oversized valves hks valve springs gt30r 38mm tial wastegate

hopefully i should get around the 240-260rwkw mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
    • It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 
    • Hopefully it's enough to help with the temps! I was also only shit stirring, regarding Murphy's Law basically. I've found, what ever spare parts I have, are the parts I don't break. Ever. Also have never had issues with oil/spinning bearings until I put oil pressure gauges on the car. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...