Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?

[TTT]

Finally...

Look forward to videos.

[Roy]

Pretty stoked to crack 300rwkws with a std RB20

[wolverine]

Good stuff.

[TTT]

so was no restrictions..

just more boost and tune needed?

[Roy]

Nothing was changed that would make a difference. It blew out the turbo to mani gasket mid tuning so that had to be replaced. The areas of concern still need to be looked at but with tuner busy before he goes on holidays we had to focus on the tuning and fiddly bits. So when I get it back this weekend I am going to redo all the piping with Wiggins clamps as once the undertrays and brake ducts etc go back on buggered if I will ever be able to get to a blown cooler hose

[Roy]

Thought I would post the dyno run.

Got Phillip island in 10 days, then play with trying to optimise boost with a controller. May throw the bigger turbo on to see if I cant get 330-340rwks out of the std RB20 I really have no idea how long its going to last at this boost and power, I was mega comfortable at 260-270 but I am kind of in uncharted waters here

[SimonR32]

That's big power Roy, even when I pushed my RB20 as hard as I could I didn't get that much Do you still have the standard RB20 box? God knows how that is holding up, I had a wack less power and managed to break a RB25 box

In saying that I don't actually think you will have issues with reliability, pistons, rod and crank should be fine, E85 is the juice of Gods... The bearings may take a beating but who knows, time will tell.

[Roy]

Yeh std 210,000km gearbox. I take it pretty easy with shifts and only run a spring centre puck Exedy clutch and only run top of the shelf Castrol gearbox fluid. I feel as though I am living on borrowed time at present with the engine and the box. It has served me well IF it goes the way of the Dodo. Hope not, would be funny if it hangs around for a little while longer and gets some improved track times to boot.

[SimonR32]

The motors just don't seem to die!

I'm running the Castrol good stuff in my box at the moment but changing it out for some Redline shockproof because my syncros don't like keeping up all the time. People think Redlines shit for boxes but when it's likely to break sooner or later I really don't give a shit as long as it stops crunching haha

Edited June 14, 2012 by SimonR32

[GTScotT]

lol the redline will stop the crunching, and take the syncros with it (from what I have seen)

its an oil with abrasive qualities which end up deglazing your synchros and in theory keep everything in tip top form. On an old gearbox though it will generally strip away more than you want to.

If you want to try deglaze the synchros before you give it a try, do this:

with the motor on and car stopped hold the clutch on the verge of friction point (so it wont actually let you into gear)

then try to select the gear you want to fix, as you firmly attempt to select the gear you will notice the revs drop (if they dont drop your not doing it right)

only do it for 2 or 3 seconds at a time and i dont recommend doing it forever in a day. I got this from a high level gearbox fab guy, this trick fixed the box in my old Evo 4 to perfection.

[Rolls]

Interesting, I thought that would just make the syncros worse, might try it in my next shitbox.

[Wheezy]

It sounds like I need some injectors and some corn syrup. Luckily I'm about to move 10mins from a supply. But way further from my tuner.

Roy, what are the specifics of the new injectors and the nismo pump if I may ask?

I'm thinking my Bosch 023 would be better replaced by a stock fitting pump (ala nismo) and the injectors aren't upto the task anyway.

Edited June 19, 2012 by Wheezy

[Roy]

Its just a Nismo in-tank pump. Injectors are something or others around 800cc I think and for giggles Nismo fuel pressure reg. Nothing exotic about the fuel system at all. I am reading some of this stuff may not be E85 compatible but meh...I am also running 95 on the street so system is getting regularly flushed

[rx-line]

Anyone ever experience their rb20det running in and out of rich 10 afrs and then 12s switching back and forth?

I am assuming it runs 10's on cold start up map but will it go rich when too hot as well? Or is it my fan drawing to much power.

All of this was noted on idle.

Rx

[rx-line]

Also experiencing it want to die after any amount of revving, vaccum related?

[R_34]

Vaccum leak would make it lean not rich.

And you run very rich, on cold startup I have 12 and the engine enter close loop pretty quickly if the engine sees some lights revs/work.

Blown fuel reg maybe.

Clean you AAC valve for your dying symptom after some revving.

[rx-line]

Plugs were fouled so I changed them with the bcpr6es and the idle surging/spiking to almost dieing went away. Cleaned iacv, and messed with the tps, set it too .5v closed and it 4.2v wot. Ordered a new maf. Has a small miss and still runs 10's in afrs while cold.

For is set at 46psi not running and 36psi at idle with vacuum on.

Not sure what the deal is.

Rx

Edited July 13, 2014 by rx-line

[hellaflush7]

Stock unopened RB20DET out of an R32.

Kando TD06-20G 8CM

NZ Performance Himount manifold

Turbosmart 45mm Gate

Bosch ID1000 inj

United 107 Raceblend

Profec B Spec II

302kw @ 25PSI

Could have kept going but Cyl 5 is looking a little tired on the comp test... have backed boost off to 18PSI and she is making 273kw now

[White GTS-T]

Awww yeah. As an RB20 fanboi, this pleases me. How's it drive?

[hellaflush7]

like a bat out of hell... the engine is in my cefiro drift car

drove it home on permit... had a random 33 line me up... i couldnt resist... first to 4th are useless on 215/45/17 haha