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Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?

RBsileighty

By RBsileighty,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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hellaflush7
hellaflush7

Stock unopened RB20DET out of an R32. Kando TD06-20G 8CM NZ Performance Himount manifold Turbosmart 45mm Gate Bosch ID1000 inj United 107 Raceblend Profec B Spec II 302kw @ 25PSI Could have ke

mokompri
mokompri

haha i knew those plates were familiar... Nismo_Boy, sounds like an animal, could you scan article and post up

random1jzmx83
random1jzmx83

Not quite 260rwkw but close enough. Rb20det Fmic Hks pod filter Hks 25/30 turbo Turbosmart boost t 3" exhaust Bosch 1000's E85 Made 257rwkw at 19psi

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Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Nothing was changed that would make a difference. It blew out the turbo to mani gasket mid tuning so that had to be replaced. The areas of concern still need to be looked at but with tuner busy before he goes on holidays we had to focus on the tuning and fiddly bits. So when I get it back this weekend I am going to redo all the piping with Wiggins clamps as once the undertrays and brake ducts etc go back on buggered if I will ever be able to get to a blown cooler hose

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  • 2 weeks later...
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Thought I would post the dyno run.

gallery_462_50_314527.jpg

Got Phillip island in 10 days, then play with trying to optimise boost with a controller. May throw the bigger turbo on to see if I cant get 330-340rwks out of the std RB20 :) I really have no idea how long its going to last at this boost and power, I was mega comfortable at 260-270 but I am kind of in uncharted waters here

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SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

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Posted

That's big power Roy, even when I pushed my RB20 as hard as I could I didn't get that much :) Do you still have the standard RB20 box? God knows how that is holding up, I had a wack less power and managed to break a RB25 box

In saying that I don't actually think you will have issues with reliability, pistons, rod and crank should be fine, E85 is the juice of Gods... The bearings may take a beating but who knows, time will tell.

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Roy Grand Master

Roy

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Yeh std 210,000km gearbox. I take it pretty easy with shifts and only run a spring centre puck Exedy clutch and only run top of the shelf Castrol gearbox fluid. I feel as though I am living on borrowed time at present with the engine and the box. It has served me well IF it goes the way of the Dodo. Hope not, would be funny if it hangs around for a little while longer and gets some improved track times to boot.

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SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

The motors just don't seem to die!

I'm running the Castrol good stuff in my box at the moment but changing it out for some Redline shockproof because my syncros don't like keeping up all the time. People think Redlines shit for boxes but when it's likely to break sooner or later I really don't give a shit as long as it stops crunching haha

Edited by SimonR32
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GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

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lol the redline will stop the crunching, and take the syncros with it (from what I have seen)

its an oil with abrasive qualities which end up deglazing your synchros and in theory keep everything in tip top form. On an old gearbox though it will generally strip away more than you want to.

If you want to try deglaze the synchros before you give it a try, do this:

with the motor on and car stopped hold the clutch on the verge of friction point (so it wont actually let you into gear)

then try to select the gear you want to fix, as you firmly attempt to select the gear you will notice the revs drop (if they dont drop your not doing it right)

only do it for 2 or 3 seconds at a time and i dont recommend doing it forever in a day. I got this from a high level gearbox fab guy, this trick fixed the box in my old Evo 4 to perfection.

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Wheezy Mentor

Wheezy

Posted
Posted (edited)

It sounds like I need some injectors and some corn syrup. Luckily I'm about to move 10mins from a supply. But way further from my tuner. :(

Roy, what are the specifics of the new injectors and the nismo pump if I may ask?

I'm thinking my Bosch 023 would be better replaced by a stock fitting pump (ala nismo) and the injectors aren't upto the task anyway.

Edited by Wheezy
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Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Its just a Nismo in-tank pump. Injectors are something or others around 800cc I think and for giggles Nismo fuel pressure reg. Nothing exotic about the fuel system at all. I am reading some of this stuff may not be E85 compatible but meh...I am also running 95 on the street so system is getting regularly flushed

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rx-line Enthusiast

rx-line

Posted
Posted

Anyone ever experience their rb20det running in and out of rich 10 afrs and then 12s switching back and forth?

I am assuming it runs 10's on cold start up map but will it go rich when too hot as well? Or is it my fan drawing to much power.

All of this was noted on idle.

Rx

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R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

Vaccum leak would make it lean not rich.

And you run very rich, on cold startup I have 12 and the engine enter close loop pretty quickly if the engine sees some lights revs/work.

Blown fuel reg maybe.

Clean you AAC valve for your dying symptom after some revving.

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rx-line Enthusiast

rx-line

Posted
Posted (edited)

Plugs were fouled so I changed them with the bcpr6es and the idle surging/spiking to almost dieing went away. Cleaned iacv, and messed with the tps, set it too .5v closed and it 4.2v wot. Ordered a new maf. Has a small miss and still runs 10's in afrs while cold.

For is set at 46psi not running and 36psi at idle with vacuum on.

Not sure what the deal is.

Rx

Edited by rx-line
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  • 3 weeks later...
hellaflush7 Apprentice

hellaflush7

Posted
Posted

10537363_10203468636890315_4752197572718

Stock unopened RB20DET out of an R32.

Kando TD06-20G 8CM

NZ Performance Himount manifold

Turbosmart 45mm Gate

Bosch ID1000 inj

United 107 Raceblend

Profec B Spec II

302kw @ 25PSI

Could have kept going but Cyl 5 is looking a little tired on the comp test... have backed boost off to 18PSI and she is making 273kw now

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      Oops my bad, here you go .
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