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The car is so much punchier to drive, for a completely std RB20 for the street and a bit of fun at the track...right now the TD06-20G is impressing the pants off me:)

Will someone hurry up and throw a HKS 2835, manifold and wastegate on their std RB20 so i can see how the results compare:)

....

When you sell your car I will put my hand up to allow you to fund the project on my car :(

Thats sooo hella nice tho hey. Im just thinking how much more you could do. More so in the way of just head work etc.

Im at work now downloading wiring diagrams etc so that i cna get the AVCR or PFC boost controller function working tonight. Ill give it a nudge this weekend at 18psi and see how it all goes. I like the idea of 22psi at the drags next Friday :(

If someone can tell me whether 256, 260 or 270/8.5mm Tomei Procams work best or if at all with std valvesprings then ill get some. If it means removing head and putting in new valve springs etc then why bother...id only be doing it to out of curiosity to see what power it makes, and realistically there are cheaper ways of making the power...oh and when i sitting on a beach in France this winter, it wont really matter how much power my car has:)

Different tuners so i have to overlay the plots myself:)

People always say too small an A/R exhaust hosuing chokes up top end, well the 8cm makes more power everywhere...makes me think whether the 6cm housing will give it more midrange without impaciting on top end...i suspect 6cm may be too small:confused:

TD06_Plot.jpg

LOL..at 4,000rpm it makes exactly double the power and is on full boost:)

Im very happy with the latest tune, but being fair with the previous tune, they tuned it to the level where they were comfortable the thing could be bounced around the track safely, hence plenty of fuel and conservative ignition...considering the trouble my car had getting out of the workshop its understandable....and seat of the pants the 10cm was always goign to struggle to match to 8cm housing no matter how good the tune.

Only have to look at the fact that the 8cm housing still has very strong top end to consider the other housing was just flat out too big. If power dropped off up top with the 8cm housing, then it could be a different story.:D

i just thought that i would post this up here as these parts are perfict for your RB20 power up, i have a HKS GT2535, GTR injectors and GTR fuel pump for sale. I want $1300 for the lot. All is in good working condition as i have just been making 240.6rwkw with these pieces (and a few other things)

I just thought i would let the other RB20 owners know this stuff is avaliable from me. This is a reasonable price.

As for my car just waiting on the fitment of the new injectors then its off to be tuned and i have my fingers crossed for some good numbers.

What boost were you running again to make those numbers…and isn’t your engine running cams and storker bottom end? Still I have long thought that 2535 would be a great setup on a std RB20, and pending turbo being in good nic then that’s a god price for turbo, injectors and fuel pump:)

Im at work now downloading wiring diagrams etc so that i cna get the AVCR or PFC boost controller function working tonight. Ill give it a nudge this weekend at 18psi and see how it all goes. I like the idea of 22psi at the drags next Friday  :D

If someone can tell me whether 256, 260 or 270/8.5mm Tomei Procams work best or if at all with std valvesprings then ill get some. If it means removing head and putting in new valve springs etc then why bother...id only be doing it to out of curiosity to see what power it makes, and realistically there are cheaper ways of making the power...oh and when i sitting on a beach in France this winter, it wont really matter how much power my car has:)

I would go for the 256's if you want to keep the standard valve springs and 264's if you change them.

You can change the valve springs without removing the head. Stick it at TDC on that cylinder and use the leak down tester to pressurise the combustion chamber. This holds the valves closed while you compress the springs and remove the collets and retainers. Swap valve springs and reverse the process, then move on to the next valve.

;)

i was running 1bar, the engine can handle alot more but i just like to play it safe. As for the running the strokeretc hense "(and a few other things)" lol. But as an upgrade these three things should be able to get any standard RB20 producing reasonable numbers.

I would go for the 256's if you want to keep the standard valve springs and 264's if you change them.

You can change the valve springs without removing the head. Stick it at TDC on that cylinder and use the leak down tester to pressurise the combustion chamber. This holds the valves closed while you compress the springs and remove the collets and retainers. Swap valve springs and reverse the process, then move on to the next valve.

Im thinking for $850 I can get 260/8.8 cams, thing is I don’t know of any reasonably priced valve springs, $560 form Tomei is about all I know:(

If someone wants to donate ahead for $50-100 ill do some DIY polishing, match porting with extrude honed inlet manifold, and perhaps throw a RB25 throttle body on it.So for approx $1500 it would be interested to see if the thing can make better power…

Does anyone know the std RB20 headgasket thickness. If I can get a thinner Gasket form some Jap company then I may be even able to wind some more compression into it 8.6-8.7 would be good.

Anyway…only if I can do it cheaply, as im happy with the power, its more out of interest then a need:)

Im thinking for $850 I can get 260/8.8 cams, thing is I don’t know of any reasonably priced valve springs, $560 form Tomei is about all I know:(

If someone wants to donate ahead for $50-100 ill do some DIY polishing, match porting with extrude honed inlet manifold, and perhaps throw a RB25 throttle body on it.So for approx $1500 it would be interested to see if the thing can make better power…

Does anyone know the std RB20 headgasket thickness. If I can get a thinner Gasket form some Jap company then I may be even able to wind some more compression into it 8.6-8.7 would be good.

Anyway…only if I can do it cheaply, as im happy with the power, its more out of interest then a need:)

Roy,

It would be interestering to see the difference between the 8cm and 10cm once a little bit of headwork + cams + higher rev range increases the airflow.

The 8cm may reach its airflow limit and only then begin flattening out the top end.

No idea really.. lol ;)

...No idea really.. lol ;)

lol...its all good, your an ideas man and i like that:thumbsup:

Only your best idea was also your worst...curse these 3.0L monsters lurking under 32 bonnets, lol...their is no development or fun being had with RB20s because of 'em :headspin:

This holiday is looking shorter and shorter:(

So whilst any power increase stresses an engine further, making power with less boost to an extent limits the stresses on the engine, especially if your able to control water and oil temps.

So budgeting:

- A running RB20DET head , $100

- Tomei Intake/Exhaust ProCam 260/10.25mm , $910

- Tomei RB20 Solid Lifters - $600

- Tomei RB20 Solid Valve Springs, $500

- Reco, Machining porting of head and manifold , $800

So $2910 later + gaskets and retune, on paper what would you expect the difference to be to:

A) Idle quality

B) Torque characteristics

C) Kw increase

Hoping some ppl with a technical understandign of engines can help. Solid lifters weigh less, and often get away with running softer valve springs because of it, correct? So do these things actually in themselves result in any more power, or is it just a less inertia ; revs quicker harder thing?

I understand that the solids allow you to run say a 10.25mm lift cam, i would have thought that a 260degree cam with such high lift would really help the RB20 breathe.

The other advantage as i understand it with solids is they dont pump up with big revs like hydraulic lifters do...but this is less appealing to me, as i dont really want to use more then 7,500rpm anyway.

So i suppose the question is what does the extra 2k get me over and above the bolt in 256/8.5mm cams in the way of power and driveability.

Its my understanding that once the RB20 has had its fun with this hardware...the 260/10.25 cams and solid lifters/springs etc could always be thrown in an RB25DE head. Can anyone confirm this?

Out of interest, wouldnt you also do a bit more to the head while it is off? Say maybe O-ring it (if your going to blow a block, why ring that... head is a smarter option) and maybe port it etc? Or is your head already had half that done???

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