Jump to content
SAU Community

Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?


Recommended Posts

Hi Lithius

Dom's car runs dont quote me on this

Gt3071 turbo high mount 40mm external waste gate snd screamer 780cc injectors ,fpr.fmic,3' exhaust loud, forward facing plenum mod,haltec E11V2 ecu ,rb25 box and 5puck clutch and he was running hooser semi slicks

My car

Hks cams ,hks cam gears,hks manifold low mount ,35mm hks external waste gate plumbed back in b4 cat ,fpr,fmic,550cc srad injectors,stabdard air box with hks panel filter and cai to4e turbo but that is the problem dosnt flow enough for engine 2 turner have both stated same thing so must be true hence new turbo on order gt3040r and haltec E11V2 ecu .Both engines running standard bottom ends oh and i ran M/T ET street semi slicks that night to for those times.

BOTH CARS TUNED BY HITMAN

Roy

If you call standard rb20det bottom ends as stock yes both cars are just bolt on's bitl my gearbox is rb25 though both cars are cant see an rb20 box taking that punishment

my clutch is an exceddy puck clutch but organic it being the weakest link in the chain its stuffed now only 2000klm old to :-( Oh well new clutch again .Roy I'd bet you had a lot more wheel spin than ya mate of the line hence ur higher mph speed but his quicker time SARCUSM HERE" just "kick his butt next time you can do it

Cheers Peter

Edited by legend01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sp whats the verdict with regards to the better type of rubber between the hoosier and M/T???

Ill grab some 15" rims and try and get a tyre with a similar rolling diam as my semi slicks as i dotn want to change my overall gearing. Wrst case can go 15" rim but that requires way too much stuffign around.

I want an 11.999 god damn it...though ill never get it:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please run an 11 on a stock RB20:)

I cant recall reading if you are using the std gearbox? What clutch and diff is in the girl.

After the last track day in late October i want to hit the drags, my housemates poo RB25 thingie ran 0.1sec quicker then me, (but 3mph slower) cant have the quickest car in the house being an RB25:)

mine aim is 11 on stock box and rb20

dont think ill be too far off next time i get down there... getting off the line may be the biggest problem

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi waldo

the .82 its the housing im waiting on garrett "say " they dont have any in the country at the moment

dude,

the A/R .82 on a GT3040R is way too big for an RB20DET, it will be too laggy. you'll see full boost b/w 4600-5000rpm, not ideal for a street car.

fyi, the turbo itself is too big given the size of the comp wheel. i'd recommend a GT30R with a .63, much better combination for a 2L engine.

i had a GT3040R on my engine (2L YBD sierra cosworth) with an A/R .63 and it was still laggy. full boost ~24psi was at 4200rpm with a very fast ramp up, hence - plenty of wheel spin.

just my 2c, but it's up to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey roy

i've got some nice 256 poncam sitting next to me.....wanna test them out for me? You reakon a hks 2530 will spool up earlier with these cams?

btw you reakon the rb20 box with break with slicks on the rear???

I have no idea, but general consensus is that a small cam upgrade like the 256 poncams will see good results in mid and top end

As for gearboxes...i think it depends a lot on your driving styles :O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will be no different to the plain bearing to4 im using now

but thanks

              peter

and you're happy with that?

then why change turbo's?

fyi, a properly setup engine with the GT30R (A/R .63) will be able to make up to 300rwkw with much less lag than what you're used to but anyway, again it's up to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just some info i found out last night when speaking to my friend (tuner/engine builder for PET Modifications) about RB20DET's, he told me that they built an RB20DET a few years back with forgies, uprated rod bolts, slight headwork, cams, Autronic, etc and managed to get 388rwkw out of it.

this thing was running a garrett T66 (with P-trim exhaust wheel) and lots of boost and was quite laggy, but none the less the power was made which i was amazed with. i didn't think RB20DET's could flow that well.

so RB20DET's aren't all that gutless after all, have a nice weekend ;-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Come on ... dont be a tease, more details:)

What boost does it need to make that power, what does it drive liek, what other mods...and most importantly. How long have you been making the power for, and have you been giving it grief or looking after it at that power level???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cerbera.. where do you plan to lose 1sec from your previous best time?

Another 60+hp from 5psi more boost, power fc tune, new cooler etc etc. My car now with the pfc makes 1 bar of boost at 3500 instead of 4700+ than when i ran my 12.8 with the remap. Also hopefully a slightly faster 60" time :D

Its my aim... I'm not saying I'm going to be able to do it, I'll be happy with very low 12's for the moment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not sure if any one saw adpsi run at jambo, on the pass which a piston failed it went 12.60 @ 70mph. Half track mph was @ 110. Was looking good for a 130+mph pass. BTW this engine is using stock rb20 rods. New engine should be in the car soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Yeh it did 530atw on subzeros dyno last month on 35psi

but had issues at autosalon only running 25psi if pete turns it up it looses power, i no a fair bit about it as i have the same mechanic and i helped do a little work on it

it blew a no1 piston half track at jambo and was over 90mph at the half track mark so its going to run 10's i would say who knows maybe quicker

Edited by SLYAS 33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

im hoping to be in this elite group soon....ive got a fmic, haltek e11, and my turbo rebuilt with t04 specs (been informed its good for 400hp) which all goes in in a few weeks, ive also replaced the fuel pump with a 210 L/ph pump...ive just done my clutch also, an exceedy ceramic gtr button which im hoping will handle the power...i hope hehe ive also got a set of tien fully adjustables going in on wednesday...ive heard they r pretty good...so im pretty excited, cant wait to get it on the road :D

does anyone want to have a guesstimate on the power ill be making?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...