Top RB20 Club... do you have over 260rwkw?

[benm]

Time to head back to NSW Roy !

[R31 POWER]

Oh crap dude,I thought the same about all that white crap being bird shit also that bit of linning looks like a crow

Hope to hear everything is ok with it.

[Roy]

Well a keen eye from Geoff this afternoon picked a small hole in the heater hose near the dump/exhaust housing/manifold.

There is residue (green) in the engine bay. So when i get to work tomorrow ill look up some of the MSDS we have on ethylene glycol, in high enough concentrations and temperature the stuff is flammable. Just talking to a colleague at work, they say that a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol at temps around 100%, then with a leak the water/ethylese glycol concentration increases as the water vapourises leaving you with a higher concentration of ethylene glycol = BBQ

So if the hose ruptured and sprayed coolant onto the dump turbo.... Ill have to do some more reading tomorrow at work, but looks to be the cause:(

So if you have a 260rwkw RB20, be warned about the high mount setup, in fact anyone with an R32, i suggest you shield this heating line on the firewall.

Oh and another thing that sugests that this may have been the cause, i normally run at the track with the heater fan on high and at 32deg, so the line definitely had fluid cranking thru it.

Will have to wait and see what those MSDS say in the morning.

And thanks for the offer Chris, i will be in touch later this week when ive had a real good look and know which wiring is cactus

[dangerous_daveo]

Strange question, but do you have the heater on to keep the heat out of the engine, etc?

[Roy]

Some more info ive been able to find around the office on ethylene glycol...

Flash point: 110 C

Material will not burn unless preheated, and running at 94 deg C you would have to consider thats preheated:(

Above flash point, vapor-air mixtures are explosive within flammable limits of around 5-15% with air. The only thing im not sure of is if the water in the coolant mix would mean the fire was not possible. The fact that i think the leak would have bene like a mist in the engine bay, meaning it would have been easily able to mix with air.

It seems it may have been one of those things where 2 - 3 things had to go wrong in order to happen. Still if the high mount was properly guarded it would never have happened.

[Cubes]

Interesting stuff Roy.

[dangerous_daveo]

Well, my mate put a teacossie on his turbo, and he said it made a noticible difference. And well, given the other options, I know what Id be asking santa for. (other than a hot brunett...)

[dazzagtr]

the rb20 det engine can only hold 400hp, so you would need strengthen internals if you want over 260rwkw.

[Cubes]

If you could get the air in to the RB20DET with reasonable boost I think the RB20DET will hold 450hp no problems.

[Roy]

If you could get the air in to the RB20DET with reasonable boost I think the RB20DET will hold 450hp no problems.

Dido...thats my thinking. Its not a fact onl;y MY thoughts, but if ppl want to throw money at me im happy to put a ported head and cams on an RB20 with something like a TD06-25G, 2835/3037 etc etc and i think it could make 260-280rwkws with at least the same reliability as an RB25

[dangerous_daveo]

So once again out of interest, how much head work are we talking here? Also would it not be a good idea to o-ring the head (yes head not block as your gona blow blocks not heads, so you get one good head, and just keep swaping blocks)

As much as I know Im throwing money away, I still reckon Id be better off keeping the RB20 than going for an engine swap, so Im interested to know what needs to be done.

[Cubes]

You will need to speak to your cylinder head buddy.

I had my RB25 head ported, lots of work done on the exhaust side, most suitable valve jobs for both inlet & exhaust, Inlet valves deshrouded to aid in low lift airflow, inlet was left rough to aid atomisation, the exhaust was polished & reconditioned.

All up that set me back ~$1100.

For more work it was going to cost anywhere from $500 to $1500.

So if I wanted to go all out the headwork would have cost me $2600.

Say around $2100 minus the reconditioning.

I drew the line with the rb20. It wasnt going to make the power where and how I wanted.

I went with the larger motor, before you make any decisions take an RB25DET for a spin.

[DCIEVE]

Will have my hybrid td06/garret equipped rb20 on the rollers in the first few weeks of jan..keen to see what it makes. Have been cruising around with a street tune (ie tuned on the road) running bugger all timing but lots of boost and the old red top is coping with 20psi pretty well.

On the note of lag...the td06 is lag city but looking at an old dyno sheet for the turbo (before it was rebuilt with garret comp etc) it made 1bar just past 4k while the old t3 used to make that at 3k...anyway to get to the point despite the lag of the td06 the graph shows it making 250rwhp at 4k as its hitting boost while the t3 took untill 7600rpm to do that...

SK; On the note of tuning, what sort of ign advance would you recomend running on the rb20 (while running high boost levels) and what sort of revlimit? Is set at 8k now but i want to drop that a little in the interests of longevity.

Roy; i know what you mean regarding the performance of the car fluctuating, mine is a shocker! Bad luck regarding the car, its the first time im glad i stuck with low mount! Is your exh housing etc ceramic coated?

[Sydneykid]

SK; On the note of tuning, what sort of ign advance would you recomend running on the  rb20 (while running high boost levels) and what sort of revlimit?  Is set at 8k now but i want to drop that a little in the interests of longevity.

I run heaps of ignition timing, everywhere. It makes the engine more responsive and builds boost faster. RB20's need that as the compression ratio is lower than RB25's and they give away 500 cc's as well. I use 8,250 rpm but I don't run a lot of boost, 1.25 bar is the max.

[Roy]

Yeh exhaust manifold and exhaust housing are all ceraminc coated, but in reality they dont make a huge amount of difference. Thats why i have all the exhaust wrap sitting in my bedroom, though i dont know what good it does sitting there:(

I would have thought running the bigger A/R housing that i am, perhaps it would be possible for my engien to take more ignition up high. Dotn know how sensible that was, but my engine is running very little ignition as tuner wants to be sure then engien holds together. Right now i dotn care about power, just want the car to run reliablyy so 222rwkws is where its at until i get 4-5 days at the track under my belt

[raz0r$harP.UK]

hey

i have an rb20det with td06... it has a hks fcon piggy back at the moment.. i was wondering what engine management everyone is running on thier rb20 and if it is worth upgrading to the full powerfc ...

currently mines putting out 250rwhp @ 10 psi but its a shitty tune ( too rich) and the diff is dodgy (what diffs are ppls running??)

[carl h]

ive got an ats 2 way in my rear end, works a treat.

[pitchd]

RB20 (180,000kms)

RB25 T3

GTR fuel pump

1.1 bar

3.5" turbo back straightthrough exhaust

Trust Pod

Greddy frontmount

Tomei cams (unknown duration or lift)

HKS FConV Pro

Sard Fuel Press Reg

car is on its way from jap so unsure of power but im estimating 210rwkw

when it lands throwing on AP engineering PFC w/ H/controller, Trust Td06-19c (rebuilt), high mount s/s manifold and 45mm trust gate, 550cc FC injectors, apexi avcr and a larger fuel pump... will be aiming for around 250rwkw on the rb20... then throwing a neo-6 rb25 in with the same above setup - 280rwkw then turbo upgrade

- adz

[DCIEVE]

I have a td06-19c also, its internal gate tho, what exh housing do you have?

Beware the standard 19c comp wheel is a diesel design and is very average, i doubt its ability to make the power levels your after. I was forced to change comp wheels since the original one was shagged and thankfully now have a larger garret comp wheel.

you'll need different injectors rb20-25 also

[pitchd]

8cm ex housing DCIEVE

it has been rebuilt with unknown internals (hasnt been installed since rebuild) so im going to be pulling it apart myself and taking some measurements... if it has been rebuilt within reason then ill reassemble her n throw it on... if not - may do some porting and larger wheels

do bare in mind that this is externally gate with a 45mm gate... so there wont be any restrictions in respect to that wastegate (can always upgrade to a 50mm haha)

the 550cc FC rx7 injectors are only a temporary solution - will be going some sard 740's a lil later down the track... also keep in mind the car has an adjustable sard fuel reg so i can always adjust fuel pressure to keep duty cycles a lil lower from maxing out on the 550's if it does happen

- adz