Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing boost gauge in r32


HCR32
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i have tried to search the forums but i couldnt find anything,

im installing my boost gauge this weekend on the r32, all i want to know is where i make the crucial cut, which rubber pipe, to fit the t peice into.

If anyone has any pics, they would help me greatly.

thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a small T from Supercheap, and T it just before the MAP sensor, as for tubing just get something similar to the existing stuff going in to the MAP sensor.

If you're not sure what the MAP sensor is, it's a little black box on teh firewall on the drivers side under the hood.

All mine is held on with cable ties with no worries, get hose clamps though if you're worried.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Ash,

thanks for that man. i got new tubing and T peice from bunnings ware house and fitted the boost gauge into the r32, works sweet! Running 10 psi and spikes to 11 some times.

Didnt know it was that simple.

All up costed me $4 to fit instead of $80 which i was quoted...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fun it off a vacum pipe from the intake plenum to see how much boost reaches the engine.

ps. skylines don't have map sensors they are air flow meters.

That's exactly where the "MAP sensor" is hooked up to, now call it what you want but that black box on the firewall reads engine pressure/vacuum, so my guess is both the ECU and std gauge read from it.

MAP & MAF tuning are not mutually exclusive, you can run a car with both, and my understanding is that's exactly what a RB20DET does. But, i am by no means an expert, and happy to stand corrected if presented with an authorative source.

Edit: btw HCR32, you're very welcome, happy to help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i thought that the idea of a map sensor was to eliminate the restrictive AFM so more boost could be run and could be tuned better. ie. car with AFM doesn't have/need MAP/MAF sensor and a car with a MAP/MAF doesn't have a AFM. i'm not being a dick i'm just trying to understand the difference between the two and what cars have them or don't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MAF-less tunes end up higher power when you've been maxing the AFM out, so you ignore it and tune soley on MAP, but as a general rule it ends up in being a worse "tune" as you have less resolution.

Now i stress the word "general", some are fine, with all these things it comes down to the quality of the tuner. As a side note, some of the 300 odd KW HSVs use a MAF-less tune whereas the regular GENIII variants use MAF (and possibly MAP).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just installed a Boost gauge in my 32, added a T-Piece just off the original Boost/Vaccuum gauge. Unfortunatley there is always a slight delay on the reading.

I'm guessing the only way to reduce this time delay is to drill a new hole through the firewall and make the hose length as short as possible. Seems like too much mucking around with too many possible negative side effects. I should probably keep my eyes on the road more anyway....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...