Jump to content
SAU Community

Differences between R32 and R33 GTR water pumps ??

SteveL

By SteveL,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know the EXACT differences between R32 and R33 GTR water pumps ??

Trade prices for these pumps are VERY different:

R32 GTR: $300+

R33 GTR: $120

I want to replace the pump on my R32 GTR as part of doing the timing belt, etc, and I'd much rather go with the R33 type if it will fit, for obvious reasons...

I've done a search and found no concrete answers. Some suggest the RB30 type will fit, but I know that the bolt pattern is slightly different and you run the real risk of a water leak and I'd rather not.

I would think the bolt patterns would be the same for the R33/R32 GTR's, but other possibilities are that the impellor is different (not a problem), the bearings are different (not a problem), fan offset/attachment flange is different (might be an issue)....and ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

of course a different impellor is going to be a problem, if your clearance is wrong then you risk destroying the pump and your engine.

I have a spare water pump which I am looking at right now.

If you can post a picture of your pump then I will tell you if it is the same. Otherwise you are gonna have to buy the right one (preferable).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
All RB25 and 26 pumps interchange but the RB30 has 1 bolt that is a few mill out but most after market pumps have this hole slotted but only use genuine pumps.

N1 pump is around $300 now,price changed 4 weeks ago was only $150.

So you've used an R33 GTR pump on an R32 GTR ??...if they interchange so easily (suggesting only minor differences), why the huge price diff ?? Also gtrken is suggesting a bolt location is different between the two

I'm not interested in the N1 pumps, they are designed primarily for best flow in higher RPM ranges.

Duncan: there's no doubt one bolt is in a different location for RB30 pumps. These can be used if you leave out that one bolt, but I'd rather not take the risk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted

No major difference, just the shape of the water pump on the timing cover is slightly different between early/mid R32 blocks and R33 blocks.

CAREFULLY check where the pump sits and have a close look between your old and new pump and it will become obvious where the elongated bolt hole is.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Beanie
      Hello from the UK

      By Beanie · Posted

      Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Beanie
      Hello from the UK

      By Beanie · Posted

      Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • r32-25t
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Buy one
    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...