Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I've been a SAU forum junkie for a while know, and would like your opinions on an alright first car, cause I know you guys are *generally* free of the usual car bs. :)

I've read the other recent topic on this, and totally agree that a R33 GTR might be a dreamed of car, but certainly isnt the way to go while still on P's and an inexperienced driver. I'm after a NA car, with body shape and interior most important. I'd prefer something a little bit unique, so no pulsars, falcons or barinas.... i might consider a lancer.

Must be a manual, as I've been driving the parents' 323 auto since getting my license.

Cars that I've researched and considered myself, all below my absolute limit of 13k are:

- Honda CRX

eg: Example

- Hyundai Coupe

eg: Example

- Mitsubishi Eclipse

I know they're very rare here in aus, but still considered

- Some type of Silvia S13

Any thoughts or suggestions welcome

- Rhys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58404-suggestions-for-a-decent-sub-13k-car/
Share on other sites

i dont know about others but i loved my N14 SSS pulsar 2L front wheel drive so it had a good amount of power and was a great car to build up confidence and driver skills. you can get a decent aus spec one for like $7000 and a good jap spec for like $9,500 or so great car really reliable as well plus good fuel econemy. anyways just some food for thought :)

Don't go for a Hyundai. Most of them aren't too reliable and the build quality isn't to be desired. Honda parts are expensive. Mitsubishi Eclipse you probrably wouldn't find here and if you did I'd steer clear unless you're made of money. Finding spare parts would be a complete hassle. Non turbo S13's are a decent choice, but as mentioned the insurance costs are horrble. Personally I'd say go with something like a Nissan Pulsar or Mazda 323 or Mitsubishi Lancer. They're common, but this is a good thing. These cars are quite easily insurable, safe, and unless you buy a lemon theyre reliable too. I regret not taking this path myself as it's a great way to build up your insurance NCB so that you can insure whatever car you like without paying a fortune later in life. When deciding, I reccomend you get insurance quotes on each of the cars you're considering, also look around at part costs for most common items which are required for maintenance.

I am with Leech, I think the SSS is a great car. Enough power, a Nissan and can be made to look pretty good. Wouldn't be too hard to find one that has had an easy life as a grocery getter either. The 2L versus all of these 1.5s you have mentioned would be enough to make my mind up.

bought my ae86 for $650 :( you can spend the extra 12k on mods :)

Failing that import a 1989 R32 GTS (N/a), you can get one for about 10k on the road with no more work necessary with pocket change.

n/a rx-7 80's.Not piston i know but.Meh.And not new but neither is the bluebird or r31.A bridgeport with webbers extractors exhaust filter manual decent paint job for cheap price a fun car to drive when you want it to be.

Pretty shit on the body though ie.Kits.But a well painted 1 with chromies looks good.

bought my ae86 for $650 :P you can spend the extra 12k on mods :P

Failing that import a 1989 R32 GTS (N/a), you can get one for about 10k on the road with no more work necessary with pocket change.

I got my '89 GTST with Tein HA suspension, 3" exhaust, chipped, HICAS lock and stereo, for around 12K on road (10.5K car, 800 new engine, 300 stamp duty, 600 insure).

Paint's a bit rough, but there's no "damage", so surely a GTS is easy sub-10K else sounds a bit steep to me, but if people are paying it...

Edit: That wasn't imported, bought locally here in Melb, so with RWC it's stacks less hassle than importing. And you actually get to test-drive it yourself.

Whoa, thanks for all the input!

The S13 has been factored in now, and possibly the SSS, but im wary of a 80s skyline - most likely been thrashed sometime, and would end up being expensive to maintain. :)

I also saw a Eunos 30X recently, and it seemed alright, although a bit small for someone as tall as me (193 cm). If i could get the leather interior optioned model, i'd consider it.

Hmmm, its going to take more thought

-Rhys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But I think you missed mine.. there is also nothing about the 98 spec that supports your claim..  according to the fuel standards, it can be identical to 95, just very slightly higher octane number. But the ulp vs pulp fuel regulations go show 95 (or 98), is not just 91 with some additives. any claim of ‘refined by the better refineries’ or ‘higher quality fuel’ is just hearsay.  I have never seen anything to back up such claims other than ‘my mate used to work for a fuel station’, or ‘drove a fuel delivery truck’, or ‘my mechanic says’.. the actual energy densities do slightly vary between the 3 grades of fuel, but the difference is very minor. That said, I am very happy to be proven wrong if anyone has some hard evidence..
    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
×
×
  • Create New...