Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do many of u have boost controllers. I was geting my car checked out at gavin woods the other day and he had about 5 skylines with blown engines in them, becasue of running 2 much boost. I was thinking about getting one, but now dont know anything about them. has anyone seen the sweet green gtr in there at his workshop, love the colour hmm maybe a respray of my car is in order.

My question is how much extra boost can u run on a standard line?. Also for driving around the street to save fuel can u turn the boost right down or even off? with a boost controller?

I have also been told they are illegal to be inside the cabin due to the fact u can change the porformance of the car so need to be under your bonnet or something, or u could just hide it under the dash i guess.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58421-boost-controllers-help-needed/
Share on other sites

I use a HKS EVC IV and it is great. The auto calibration is fantastic. Two power runs on a dyno and its good to go.

You can save fuel by not pressing the right pedal too hard :( But that defeats the purpose of owning the line, doesn't it ??

You should call a certification engineer if you have any queries on the legality of anything. I know a good one, if you want the number send me a PM.

I've got an AVCR but as an electronic boost controller it still spikes every now and then, but not as bad as a gated one (ie, turbosmart).

My boost is set on 1bar (14.7psi). I run this all day everyday and it's been like that for about 6 months now. Normally the "safe" level on a standard series 1 turbo is 12 max of 14psi.

Depends on what your game enough to run.

My car is one of those there with a blown engine but it wasn't from the boost controller, it was from a failed cooling system.

Boost controllers are a cheap horse power spend and as long as you aren't running ridiculous amounts of boost you should be right.

Anyone have experience with the Blitz SBC units?

Ive got a Blitz Dual SBC sitting in my gagrage, was in the car for a while and then got an after martket ecu which will eventually control my boost and the next tune.

Good unit, holds boost well, occasional spike, fairly easy to use.

In re to the question (sorry for whoring) when i had my boost controller i was running 14psi all day, now am running ~12psi.

Steve

Have a Greddy profec B specII EBC , holds real well once you have it set right , and you can flick too hi-low boost all day with the touch of a button, so I have low set at stock boost ( 7-9 psi) and hi set to 11-13 psi but leave it on stock most of the time for fuel saving, oh yeah I got it s/h for $400 and I think it is around $600ish new

alright well some food for thought thanks for all your help people. Now the question is do i wait till im on my opens which is in july, i think i will lose my licence with the normal boost rating anyways so might as well up it to 12 lol. Thanks again

Ive got a Blitz Dual SBC sitting in my gagrage, was in the car for a while and then got an after martket ecu which will eventually control my boost and the next tune.

Good unit, holds boost well, occasional spike, fairly easy to use.

Which dual SBC is it (spec R, spec S, DC)?

most are fine.... and have various advantages and disadvantages. Some are slightly better than others, but when it comes down to it - the boost controller is just one part of a whole system. If you do something stupid you can kill the car, so yes I guess they can be a bit dangerous in the hands of somebody who doesn't know the various ins and outs.

I think you QLD'ers must love blowing up engines, and seem to think just winding up the boost to 18psi is a great way to get more power :P

do not run more than 12psi on a stock ECU r33.. .

do not run more than 10psi on a stock intercooled r33..

maybe you can for a little bit but over time, something go bang, wallet go bang, fun of owning a turbo car out the window.

So what is needed to run boost up to 15psi?. I understand that the weak points of the rb25 at high boost levels are the pistons, head geasket and intercooler. I have a dual stage boost controller and the second stage is not yet dialed in. 1st stage is set to 9psi and have been told to go ahead and set 2nd stage to 15psi. The engine was rebuilt recently with (among other things) forged pistons, thick steel headgasket and has a large intercooler. Is 15psi reasonable?

So what is needed to run boost up to 15psi?. I understand that the weak points of the rb25 at high boost levels are the pistons, head geasket and intercooler. I have a dual stage boost controller and the second stage is not yet dialed in. 1st stage is set to 9psi and have been told to go ahead and set 2nd stage to 15psi. The engine was rebuilt recently with (among other things) forged pistons, thick steel headgasket and has a large intercooler. Is 15psi reasonable?

Is it the standard turbo? If so i wouldnt be running 15psi through it.

Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks  when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick.    so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?   I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me     
    • Thanks Duncan, I don't have a GTR these days mate. Gone soft..
    • Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
×
×
  • Create New...