Jump to content
SAU Community

sub questions


linxus40
 Share

Recommended Posts

ok im looking to put 10" subs in my boot running off an amp. if i had 800-1000watt subs what kind of power would i need from the amp to produce a good solid sound.

been looking at amps that have 2 by 200wat rms, is this too much or about right?

also still deciding on what brand/model components to buy. i have a budjet of about $700 for the subs and amp can anyone recomend some equipment that i could get within my budget that will sound good.

atm i just have a jvc head unit (4 by 50wat mosfet) running some clarion 6' splits in the front and 6' 2 ways in the back.

ps i know i should get an amp for the splits and 2 ways but thats all to come later on unless someone can recomend an amp that will run 2 subs splits and 2 ways all within my budget including speakers (doubt it).

looking forward to the advice

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you on a tight budget by the best 4 channel amp you can afford, aim for 4x75-100W RMS.

It would be a waste of time buying a 800W nominal speaker if you only have 250-350W RMS to power it, so I would look for a more efficient speaker, perhaps with a nominal power rating half of what you are looking at.

At the end of the day however speaker power rating will not mean much to you at all, I would be more concerned about the sound of the speakers you choose.

The 4 channel amp will allow you to run a sub and your front splits, less cost, wiring and hastle than running multiple amps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...