Air Con R32 GTSt HELP

[Jax]

Air Conditioning stopped. I've traced faults a fair way, but now hit the wall. It's the fully auto system, though I don't believe any of the "auto" features are relevant to my problems. Not being in a metropolitan area, even if I get AutoLec help, I've probably got more chance of success if I can locate the faults myself.

Firstly, the basics of the parts of the circuits that matter, are fairly simple.

1. From ignition,thru an ACC relay,thru a fuze [#20], to the Air/Con relay, thru a pressure switch, to the ECCS unit, and PRESUMABLY to Earth.

2. From ignition, thru a fuze [#10] thru the Air/Con relay points [closed when relay called, above] to the Magnetic Clutch on the Compressor to Earth.

What happened? Magnetic Clutch windings ere "cooked", and though still working,draw too much current, and blew #10 fuze.

At the time,not knowing what the problem was, replaced fuze. Air/Con worked for a while, then blew fuze again.

Found problem with Clutch, and have obtained a replacement, BUT Have found that now the Air/Con relay [see 1. above] does not operate.

Have tested the Relay - O.K.

Have voltage to the Relay, thru the Relay, to and thru the Pressure Switch. A wire,thru a test lamp,after the Pressure Switch, to Earth, operates the Relay, and Air/Con works.

Question: After the Pressure Switch the circuit goes to the ECCS unit. Does anyone know why, and what happens there? it seems to me that all we need is an Earth, but I'm only used to old time auto electrics, and I'm obviously wrong.

This wire from Pressure Switch, I think, is supposed to go to terminal 46 on the ECCS unit, and is supposed to carry "Power Voltage" when Air/Con is 'off' and Zero Voltage when Air/Con is 'on'.

I have "Power Voltage" on terminal 46 'on' or 'off.'

Can anyone help?? I hope.

[tom_g]

Jax,

The clutch coil in my R32 is also stuffed. Any chance you could tell me where you found a replacement.

As for the wiring, im not sure why it goes through the ECCS but this diagram might be able to help you if you don't already have a copy. The diagram shows that it should connect to terminal 9 and 46 on the ECCS.

Thanks,

Tom.

[tom_g]

Just found some more ac stuff in the R33 GTR service manual. It looks like it uses ECCS for water temp signal, engine rev signal and throttle sensor signal. See attached page from manual. I imagine R33 would be the same as R32.

cheers,

Tom.

[Jax]

Thanks for the info, Tom, it will all be useful. Funny, in most respects the bits of diagram I have are more comprehensive than that which you sent, BUT yours has more detail in the ECCS area than mine. I think it 'mazing! I was just lucky with compressor. The day it failed, I looked on e-Bay, and there was one just removed from race car in Tassie. I was only bidder, and postage was more expensive than Comp. My Air/Con man said he could get one for around $1300, local Nissan Dealer also around that, I believe.

Thanks again

Jax

[lwells]

Jax,

I think I have a the same problem as you (did? all fixed?). Sometimes I can get my aircon to start and it will blow cold air for X minutes before a fuse blows (I think its always number 10) and hot air starts coming through I have tested the aircon relay (vehicle side): point 2 shows ~12V, but point 3 shows 0V.

My guess, based on my symptoms, is that the magnet clutch is not working properly (or at all). Does that sound right to you?

I had hoped to test the magnet clutch connector but I can't for the life of me find it as the picture is so bad in the digitised workshop manual. Are you able to point me in the right direction?

When you say the "magnetic clutch's windings", is there some way to test those (ie. I assume that testing the magnetic clutch connector won't test the windings as well)? Do you know if the magnetic clutch is standard across all R32s, or did it change constantly like the compressor? Can the "windings" be repaired, or should I just replace the whole magnetic clutch?

Cheers,

Lucien.

[Bazelinez]

Hey guys,

Are R32s supposed to "click" when you turn the a/c on? I think mine used to but since the air con stuffed up I can't hear it click on anymore. I was just thinking it was the gas...

[Bazelinez]

anyone know? could save me lots of diagnosis time if i know roughly what's wrong.

The revs don't fluctuate at all either when you first turn the a/c on. the climate control is making all the right noises and such and its kicking it, just no cold air?

[lwells]

Bazelinez: Assuming you have the LCD aircon panel, have you run the self-diagnosis tests? Also, have you checked all four fuses related to the aircon?

Lucien.

[Bazelinez]

No not for the aircon. How do you do that? All fuses are okay. How do you know if the big fuses in the engine bay are okay? the block style ones? sorry dunno what they're called....

I assumed the gas had leaked out but it was working perfectly one day, then the next is was completely warm...I would have thought it would have got worse slower then that. IT worked for 2 weeks after I got it re gassed.

[lwells]

Do a search mate, there is plenty of info about the aircon diagnostics: in fact there is a whole section in the R32 workshop manual.

The "big fuses" are called relays: again, the workshop manual shows you how to test that everything is AOK at the relay.

Lucien.

[PHATR32]

is there pressure in the system? if the gas has leaked out the aircon wont turn on at all, itll only blow air etc.

steve

[Bazelinez]

did the diagnostics, all good. That leaves gas or compressor I guess.

cheers for the help guys....

[Jax]

Sorry, have'nt been on site for a while. Sounds like burnt clutch windings. Dont keep switching it on as the current draw will get greater as the windings get worse, and you may damage something else, as mine did. Fixed now. I decided compressor too hard to get out, so i REMOVED CLUTCH ASSEMBLY OFF COMPRESSOR. gOT A MOTOR REWINDER TO REWIND COIL. oNLY COST $110. wORKS PERFECTLY. sHORT OF TIME AT MOMENT, i'LL LOOK IN AGAIN LATER.

[Jax]

To find out if windings are "cooked" or on their way out, run the comp thru an ammeter. If no draw at all,windings completely gone. Any reading above 1 or 2 amps means partly burnt out, and will only work for very limited time. TURN IT OFF UNTIL REPAIRED.

There are at least two different clutches [and therefore windings] If you want to disassemble clutch in situ, let me know and I'll try to write a description. I'ts rather tricky.

[lwells]

Jax: Thanks for the replies. A few questions though

* Does the system need to have the gas removed before the clutch assembly can be removed? I hope not as my system is full of gas

* When you say to test the compressor, can you be a bit more explicit: do you mean test the air-con relay, or the magnetic clutch connector, or something else?

* As I said in my post, I haven't been able to locate the magnetic clutch connector: any hints, tips or better yet, photos on where the hell the connector is? Can it be gotten too without removing items? Do I have to come from underneath the car, or can I get to it from up top?

* If you have time to write a guide on disassembling the clutch, that would be ace

Cheers,

Lucien.

[Jax]

To Iwells

Had a bit of 'puter trouble, back now. Re your questions, - If you can remove Clutch assmb., then gas remains in system. Test with Ampmeter? - Remove Air/Con relay, and connect meter between terminals 3 and 5. It's hardly worth bothering, if it's blowing #10 fuze [which must be replaced before doing foregoing test] as that is virtually certain to indicate Clutch winding.

Can't help you with connector - the only one I know is mounted on top of the compressor,just behind the pulley/clutch assembly, and is very difficult to reach.

CLUTCH DISSEMBLY IN SITU.

Basically the pulley/clutch assmbly is in three parts 1. The clutch pressure plate. 2 The driving pulley 3. The electro/magnetic coil winding assmbly.

They are removed in that order.

First,remove radiator. This is easy, remove both top brackets, drain water, Remove top and bottom radiator hoses from radiator ends,and wiring connector from R/H side of radiator, then lift it out. When refilling later, remove bleed screw,which you will see illustrated in Manual.

That's the last easy bit. For the moment, leave the belt on and tensioned. Remove the 'splash guard' from underneath. Now remove the stud from centre of clutch pulley [leaving the belt on helps to hold the pulley while you do this,and the next operation.] The stud you have now removed threads into the compressor drive shaft and passed through the 'clutch pressure plate'. you now need to tap a thread into that hole in the 'pressure plate'. 5/16 Whitworth is a suitable size.

You now need to make a suitable puller,which will rest upon the outer circumfernce of the pulley,allowing clearance from the outer circumference of the 'pressure plate', bridged across the centre,with a hole in centre bridge which will give clearance to a stud with a matching thread to that which you have just tapped.

Thread a nut onto a stud [set-screw] , with a thread on all it's length, pass the stud through the hole in puller and thread into the thread you tapped. Screw the nut down onto the puller centre bridge,which removes the 'pressure plate'.

Now undo the tensioner, and remove the drive belt.

The next item is the pulley[with bearings] This is held on a sleeve by a circlip. There are 2 types of basic circlips - internal and external, both of which need special 'circlip'plyers to remove. this is an 'external' circlip. Circlip plyers come in a variety of sizes [for each type of circlip] and in straight and bent nose. you will need both straight and bent nose to remove and replace the circlip. With the circlip removed, the pulley can be removed. May need gentle tapping with small hammer, while pulling to-wards front of vehicle.

Now only the clutch winding section is left. There are at least 2 types for R32. One is secured by circlip. Remove the same as pulley removal. The other is secured by 3 philips-head screws onto the alloy housing of the compressor. I would suggest that a screwdriver bit, adapted into a ratchet socket handle would be ideal,as slipping out of the slot in the screw head could damage the slot and make removal very difficult. After removal of the circlip or screws ,the clutch winding section will come away easily. Pull it out a little and unplug the connector AND YOU'RE DONE.

Reading through this, I think it's been almost harder to describe than to do.

I hope you can make sense of it.

Jax. :ufo:

[lwells]

Jax,

Mate, your a champ: thanks for the time and effort. I think I have a weekend project

Lucien.

[lwells]

For those interested -- and for the sake of propagating the guide in a few related threads so its easy to find with the search facility -- here is a guide for removing the windings in-situ on an R32 GT-R (I imagine its much the same across the R32 series and probably for 33s and 34s).

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=112597

Thanks again to Jax for the initial instructions

[rb180]

What happened? Magnetic Clutch windings ere "cooked", and though still working,draw too much current, and blew #10 fuze.

At the time,not knowing what the problem was, replaced fuze. Air/Con worked for a while, then blew fuze again.

Same thing happened with me. I replaced fuse 10 and the aircon worked fine for a bit then i smelt something funny and found that fuse 10 has melted. So i tried to pull it out and only 3/4's of it would come out which leaves 1/4 of it stuck inside still.

Anyway from reading the thread I'm guessing the windings have been cooked like you guys have said was the problem with yours. I'm taking the car to an auto elec as i would have abit of trouble performing the "R32 Gt-r In-situ Airconditioner Windings Removal" DIY. So what exactly do i tell the auto elec is the problem? Is it as simple as telling him i need the windings on the comperssor rewound? and can anyone suggest someone who would be good at this or has done it before? I dont mind paying good money for a good job. Any help would be great thanks. oh and Btw im in Melbourne, Victoria. Cheers