Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive picked up my R32 GTR, absolutely great condition. However, after a descent run (but not always, its happened twice so far) the car will not rev past 2600 rpm, power completely cuts out as if hitting redline. Car works fine normally and this has only happened twice. Cant get into hypertune or racepace till new year so wondering if anyone had any possible causes?

My temp gauge usually shows a temp of 83 degrees... is this normal or high?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58775-r32-gtr-power-cuts-out2600rpm/
Share on other sites

When I first picked up my SR20 180SX a few years back I found an RPM 'window' from 3000 to 5000 where power all but died. It turned out to be a fuel pump that was on its last legs and pumping at 40% capacity. After replacing it, the car run beautifully and power delivery was restored to normal.

This fuel problem occurred 90% of the time. The frequency of your problem sounds a bit more like its electrical, but if you run short of ideas, perhaps get your pump tested?

Mark

the car will not rev past 2600 rpm, power completely cuts out as if hitting redline.

He said it cuts out completely

']more likely than not, its your intercooler piping. check all the clamps to make sure they are secure. also check that there are no hoses that are split.

How can a small leak do just that?

Please explain

Zahos: i blew the clamp off my cooler piping and it would not accelrate past something similar to GTSpec's rpm. It really does feel like hitting rev limiter. The fact that air was escaping and not going into the motor will make it run like shit.

did the pipe blow off completely or was it just enough to leak?

Coz I have blown my cooler pipes right off before, and I couldn't even drive the prick.

I have also had leaks, but it only made it hessitate (yes it did run like complete crap, but I could rev it well past 2600 rpm)

If his car drives fine most of the time, and twice (twice is a key word here), it has not revved past 2600 rpm, then it is most likely some sort of sensor crapping itself / not connected properly.

AFM is the first thing that comes to mind. It could be something else, but I dont want to be a keyboard tuner and say exactly what it was without looking at it.

well i dont know exactly what his problem could be but you would wanna hope it was something minor like the pipe. Its happened to my GTR, and my friends Soarer, Supra, AND Sti. Once it happend with just the leak without the pipe coming off and it wasnt able to rev very high at all.....when the boost hits.

Your ECU is running in closed loop, judging by what you describe. Usually caused by no signal from an AFM. Very common on BNR32's. Try swapping them out one at a time for a known good AFM. Then explore other possibilities.

Hi thanks for the replies. This problem has been occuring more frequently over the past few days. To elaborate, when the problem occurs, it will not rev past 2600 exactly so i am pretty sure it is a safe mode the comp is going to.

Also, just before the problem occurs, i can feel the power of the car is a little lethargic and suddenly its back to normal for a few secs then lethargic again and then into safe mode. I had a look at the airflow meter and the wirings not flash. Gonna see if i can secure the wires and see how it goes for the time being.

With airflow meters, if one of mine was shot, wouldnt it always run bad??

Have you given the ECU fault codes a look yet?

There's instructions on how to display and interpret them, I can't find them right now, have a search for yourself or hopefully someone else can point you in the right direction. Doing thsi first COULD save you a lot of time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...