Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

or you can remove the ps pump, and undo the 4 bolts on the back of it.

then you can remove the little vane pump thing, (it slides out) and close it all up again.

then just block the outlet hose on the pump.

That way, it wont continually pump oil around for no reason.

steve

Ben, as always I prefer email as it is easier to track orders than PM.

I intend to open a website soon with all of the orders starting to come in, and use PayPal, which reminds, I must make another donation to Christian.

PHATR32, I am talking about the power steering fluid cooler that runs from the HICAS control solenoid (near the oil filter). What do you think the impact on the fluid temperature will be once this is removed (keeping in mind that fluid will now not need to be pumped to the rear of the car) and what will be the impact on the system pressure now that all of the fluid is being pumped through the power steer - what happens when that valve shuts - will there be an increase in the pressure of the lines?

I have no idea what would happen if that part of the system is removed - I am a little aprehensive - but would LOVE to see it gone!

What makes you think that on a 32/silvia platform that anything other than plugging the hydraulics or a connector pipe is required? Sure removing the rest is nice, but not necessary. It is just a basic hydraulic system.

For 33 and 34 the system is electric so no pumps, or perhaps you haven't had the opportunity to work on these yet.

I have no problem with a mechanic with a new workshop trying to make a buck...hell I spent a lot of years working as a mechanic myself before getting an engineering degree, but I suggest you specify the service you are offering such as the exact work on the car, whether you will provide an alignment and whether any other parts have to be payed for.

BTW good luck with the workshop.

mate if you can fit them for $50 more fool you, as your time must be cheap because they are not fitted as quick and easy as u say , this is not a new work shop i have worked on a r34 gtr as i own one and i also have a r32gtr so sorry i dont need the extra money u talk about just thought i would give the guys a hand any way good luck trying to sell them

p.s sold my r33 gtr at the end of last year

So this item here you suggest takes 2 hours to remove and replace and conduct a rear toe adjustment (see pic)? I'll allow the forum members to determine for themselves the truth of that. As to my value, I'd suggest it is way beyond your comprehension, but I still only swing spanners for personal enjoyment and to help out mates.

This is a DIY thread where info is offered for members to do it themselves so they only then need the rear toe adjustment. Sure I sell the items, for which I have selected suitable materiel and welding methods to ensure they remain stronger than the factory component, but members are free to buy wherever they want to and these are available from a number of sources. I just offer them at a price to recover my costs and make a little as well, as they are a very basic component.

There is no need to introduce negative comments or attempt to impress us with the cars you own. A quick search of the forum revealed your history on here, including your new workshop thread here so I'd suggest it is still a new workshop and I still offer you my regards on making it successful. Just quietly, helpful comment will bring more customers to your door than just being negative without supporting evidence.

As far as this thread goes I recommend you either help with appropriate comment or refrain from attempting to directly insult me and my intelligence or indirectly insult the forum members by trying to offer a service that they may not want or need. If you feel there is error in the method then by all means take your pictures and post the detail, for the benefit of the members. In future if you are offering services then post in the appropriate section of the forum.

Hey guys - you are f**king up an otherwise good thread. Should you like to bicker about who knows what you might like to do it off line. This IS a DIY thread and I would suggest that most people visiting here are only interested in finding out how to replace the HICAS bar.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...