HICAS removal bar fitting for R33

[Waldo]

i notcied on my r32 that if i took the hicas ecu out the steering went heavy then just plug it back in and it was fine

[GTR_STEALTH]

Ok...stupid question but, what does "HICAS" actually stand for?

[GTRgeoff]

I prefer Highly Incompetent Cretin Assisting Steering

Otherwise, no idea.

[siksII]

I have read from multiple US sites:

High Capacity Active(ly) (Controlled) Suspension

Edited October 21, 2005 by siksII

[jmac]

Help I Can't Actually Steer!!!!!!

:lol:

[siksII]

Help I Can't Actually Steer!!!!!!

:lol:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i think you have a more accurate description than nissan does!! that really makes sense!

[Duncan]

[Beer Baron]

ok here's a thought for us poor 32 owners. perhaps i should buy a tomei lock kit, and a bar. ie, use the tomei module to ensure the hicas computer doesn't stuff up my front power steering or activate the light, and use the bar to enable me to remove the weighty hicas unit and it's associated bits...hmm that could be the go. obviously it's the most expensive way, but should give the best result.

[GTRgeoff]

I should get off my ass and buy a Tomei kit to reproduce the module

BTW I will not be producing bars from Tuesday 15 Nov until after Thurs 16 Dec as I will be out of country. I'm pretty sure the Vic Copper staying at my place can't weld either so he won't help

Also, once I finish the current stock of about 4 R33/34 and 10 R32/180/Silvia bars I won't do any more until next year sometime.

[Beer Baron]

geoff, when i'm in japan (leaving in about 7 weeks) I'll pick up one of the tomei kits and bring it back for you to expose it's goodies.

[siksII]

geoff, when i'm in japan (leaving in about 7 weeks) I'll pick up one of the tomei kits and bring it back for you to expose it's goodies.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

are they cheap over there?

i would prefer to get one of them if they were the same price as the lock bar, due to the power assistance issues with r33's, which is why i still have not made up my mind to get a lock bar.. maybe u could get me one too

[No Crust Racing]

Yeah I'll raise my hand on this issue. I'm not a fan of feeling the rear end behave independent of what I'm doing up front. Wasn't sure what the best way to go about all this was. Is the consensus that the bar is effect and cheap, (and requires a bulb removal in the dash) or are people finding the Tomei kit preferable? I’m not too fussed about weight as I’m not out to pull 10’s or anything. As I understand it, the price difference is something like $60 or so for the bar vs $200+ for the Tomei kit?

Cheers

[Beer Baron]

are they cheap over there?

i would prefer to get one of them if they were the same price as the lock bar, due to the power assistance issues with r33's, which is why i still have not made up my mind to get a lock bar.. maybe u could get me one too

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

yeah i think they are about $120 or $130 from memory. i still think the lock bar is the best option, particularly for a 33, it's just that it needs a little more fiddling to fit on a 32. The tomei thing is certainly easy to fit, but it would be nice to get rid of the unnessary weight (which properly fitting the bar will do).

[No Crust Racing]

Ok so properly fitting the bar removes the hardware associated with the HICAS system and just leaves the ECU behind (which requires a bulb removal on the dash and wont effect the speed sensitive power steering)?

[johnblack33]

quick question probably sounds stupid but yeh... what would happen if u just unplugged all the electrical shit from the HICAS bar as u did in picture number 1... but left the hicas bar as is??

[justin911]

or if you yanked out the hicas fuse, what that do the trick ???

quick question probably sounds stupid but yeh... what would happen if u just unplugged all the electrical shit from the HICAS bar as u did in picture number 1... but left the hicas bar as is??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[Beer Baron]

no, neither of the above to ideas will work. without the rear steering rack being controlled you will have problems. both you guys have 33s so it's really simple. buy and fit a bar, remove dash light, get wheel allignment. But Geoff has more detailed instructions in his sig.

[johnblack33]

so this bar replacement that geoff supplies, is that like having a locked diff in replacement of the HICAS bar??? ... or the hicas and differential have nothing to do with each other?

[Beer Baron]

hicas and diff have nothing to do with each other. hicas is the rear steering rack. it changes the toe as it sees fit. replacing the rack with a solid bar stops this and gives a more predictable rear end.

[Waldo]

Hey guys on the hicas matter i have a 32, and i completly removed eveything to do with hicas and installed a lock bar, this includes chnagin the power steering pump, but one thing i did find is that as soon as you unplug the hicas computer the steering goes really heavy, and leaving the computer in makes the steering go heavy at higher speeds...now to the point....if you just want really light steering all the time i figured out using trial and error, that there is a little variable solenoid on the front rack, this is controlled by the hicas computer. if you unbolt the small solenoid (3 allen key bolts) you will find 2 holes which allows fluid to pass through when the solenoid isnt energized, and when you pick up speed this valve closes slightely causing the steering to get soft....so to have soft steering with the hicas computer out you have to take the solenoid off the rack and cut out a plate to cover the holes (steering is nice and soft when these holes are cover) this stops fluid travelling out one hole then through the solenoid and into the other hole....you simply have to bog up the holes with sumthing....i used a alluminium plate and just drilled 3 holes in it to line up.....and thats all there is to it to have soft steering with hicas computer removed!