Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im about to chuck my lock bar in this weekend. i have done a lock on a 32 and it was locked on my old 33 as the hicas was faulty but i must admit i never new there was a computer in the boot that controlled the 4 wheel steer.

i knew that the hicas in r33 was electronic as opposed to the hydraulic set up in the r32 skylines but yer the computer is news to me.

i have recently pulled the hicas sensor off the steering collumn when i did a steering wheel change and only thing i can notice is the light come on when i turn hard if im dring over 80!

i guess i have 3 main questions ..

1. will removal of the disc sensor set-up interfere with my power steering???

2. will unplugging the electronic clips on the hicas interfere with my power steering?

3. will removing the ecu in the parcel shelf interfere with my power steering??

i want my steering to feel just the same as stock but with out the rear wheel steer.

You need a HICAS Bosskit for your steering wheel,

Leave the computer alone and it will be fine.

The only thing you remove is the bar itself and the bulb. Leave EVERYTHING else or you will have problems.

  • 1 month later...

what about removing the fuse?? where is the fuse located for the hicas? i read somewhere that its in the boot, but where in the boot? i have just put a lockbar in and it made so much difference to the handling of the car. i like i like.

  • 4 months later...

i took my hicas ecu out years ago in R33 GTSt. i guess u could say the steering was slightly heavier but im also running 19" rims which weigh shitloads more than the stockers.

i also never had the hicas light come up on the dash when i removed the ecu

some ppl think its weird but it was basically unplug it all and things were normal.

ben...

  • 2 weeks later...

Has anyone tried an RB25 PS pump in a 32 GTR rather than gutting the rear impeller? Has any one removed all the wiring from the rear (the disconnected bits) to free up some weight/clean up? Were upgrades to the caster bits necessary?

  • 1 month later...
Just tape them up and cable tie away nicely.. Or, if you CBF i think you can pull them up into the boot through the big ass grommet there.

Hi guys, i have recently bought a R33 with the HICAS motor being removed, and it's got a lock bar installed.

The steering feel is stiff when car is not moving, for e.g. when trying to do a reverse parking. When driving the car at higher speeds, its still stiffer than a stock R33 with the HICAS unit.

What I would like to know is, does the removal of the HICAS unit and the installing of a lock bar caused the power steering to be stiff ? I know the removal of the HICAS unit is to prevent the rear wheels from steering and the HICAS lock bar is obviously to lock the rear wheels into a locked position. But does this naturally mean the steering should be stiff ?

Or is there a problem with the power steering unit or pump ?

Is it possible to have the HICAS unit removed + installing the lock bar, BUT still retain the feeling of a power-assisted steering ?

I am totally not used to driving this car with the stiff steering, and would like to return to the original feeling of the normal power assisted steering. I asked the previous owner why the steering was so stiff, and he told me that its because the HICAS unit has been removed. Is that really the reason behind it?

Hope you guys can help out here as I am really new but I have searched through the forums on this topic but cant seem to find out the exact answers. Thanks guys !

Edited by Brabus

Hey dude,

Check in the boot and see if the HICAS ECU is still there and plugged in.

Fitting mine the steering didnt change at all. But i hear that if you remove the ECU, then it will go heavy.

so many variations with this hicas lol... i removed my hicas computer years ago when doing a boot install, the light never came on, the steering was light as usual i also got 19's with 245/265s on. recently i finally got around to fitting my lock bar. and again no issues at all.

Ben...

  • 1 month later...

what about the steering position sensor in the r33? located behind the steering wheel / boss kit. its the round disc with the tab that fits through the slot in hicas specific boss kits / standard wheel.

it was mentioned above that once removed, it had no bearing on power steering weight, etc.

can i get a confirmation or otherwise about removing this sensor?

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • 4 months later...

hey, awesome write up...plan on installing the bar in the next week or so. Was just wondering with the wheel alignment, would you be able to do it yourself? maybe with some string? lol i know it sounds dodgy but might not have time to drive it to a w/a place for a few days...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
×
×
  • Create New...