Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

or you can remove the ps pump, and undo the 4 bolts on the back of it.

then you can remove the little vane pump thing, (it slides out) and close it all up again.

then just block the outlet hose on the pump.

That way, it wont continually pump oil around for no reason.

steve

Ben, as always I prefer email as it is easier to track orders than PM.

I intend to open a website soon with all of the orders starting to come in, and use PayPal, which reminds, I must make another donation to Christian.

PHATR32, I am talking about the power steering fluid cooler that runs from the HICAS control solenoid (near the oil filter). What do you think the impact on the fluid temperature will be once this is removed (keeping in mind that fluid will now not need to be pumped to the rear of the car) and what will be the impact on the system pressure now that all of the fluid is being pumped through the power steer - what happens when that valve shuts - will there be an increase in the pressure of the lines?

I have no idea what would happen if that part of the system is removed - I am a little aprehensive - but would LOVE to see it gone!

What makes you think that on a 32/silvia platform that anything other than plugging the hydraulics or a connector pipe is required? Sure removing the rest is nice, but not necessary. It is just a basic hydraulic system.

For 33 and 34 the system is electric so no pumps, or perhaps you haven't had the opportunity to work on these yet.

I have no problem with a mechanic with a new workshop trying to make a buck...hell I spent a lot of years working as a mechanic myself before getting an engineering degree, but I suggest you specify the service you are offering such as the exact work on the car, whether you will provide an alignment and whether any other parts have to be payed for.

BTW good luck with the workshop.

mate if you can fit them for $50 more fool you, as your time must be cheap because they are not fitted as quick and easy as u say , this is not a new work shop i have worked on a r34 gtr as i own one and i also have a r32gtr so sorry i dont need the extra money u talk about just thought i would give the guys a hand any way good luck trying to sell them

p.s sold my r33 gtr at the end of last year

So this item here you suggest takes 2 hours to remove and replace and conduct a rear toe adjustment (see pic)? I'll allow the forum members to determine for themselves the truth of that. As to my value, I'd suggest it is way beyond your comprehension, but I still only swing spanners for personal enjoyment and to help out mates.

This is a DIY thread where info is offered for members to do it themselves so they only then need the rear toe adjustment. Sure I sell the items, for which I have selected suitable materiel and welding methods to ensure they remain stronger than the factory component, but members are free to buy wherever they want to and these are available from a number of sources. I just offer them at a price to recover my costs and make a little as well, as they are a very basic component.

There is no need to introduce negative comments or attempt to impress us with the cars you own. A quick search of the forum revealed your history on here, including your new workshop thread here so I'd suggest it is still a new workshop and I still offer you my regards on making it successful. Just quietly, helpful comment will bring more customers to your door than just being negative without supporting evidence.

As far as this thread goes I recommend you either help with appropriate comment or refrain from attempting to directly insult me and my intelligence or indirectly insult the forum members by trying to offer a service that they may not want or need. If you feel there is error in the method then by all means take your pictures and post the detail, for the benefit of the members. In future if you are offering services then post in the appropriate section of the forum.

Hey guys - you are f**king up an otherwise good thread. Should you like to bicker about who knows what you might like to do it off line. This IS a DIY thread and I would suggest that most people visiting here are only interested in finding out how to replace the HICAS bar.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
×
×
  • Create New...