Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HOLY BRAIN STRAIN BATMAN :D:D

Well that was informative while at the same time headache forming.

Anyway, I just recently sold my 91 240sx SE that of course had Super HICAS. After looking carefully at the wiring diagram for the car I found that all I had to do was remove a fuse (from the panel inside the car, driver's side) marked ELECTRONICS to disable the HICAS system. That locked it up, straight just as Nissan states, and had no further issues.

Now from what I've "heard" the Skylines use a better system but the premiss should still be the same as it's electronically controlled. Disable the system and it'll lock. So I'm gona try this option first and if it does'nt work out properly, I will look in to one of the bars being offered. I'd just really like a clear cut, no nonsense, step by step install (with pic's) for a GTS-t. Anyone willing to post up on this?

Thanks guys.

Cheers B)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Installed my lock bar today, went in pretty easy, very happy with it, doing the wheel alignment tomorrow morning.

thanks geoff, great product and from seeing 8 pages to this thread...plenty of support to anyone having troubles.

I'll be using my car for the drift training day this weekend so should make it easier to do massive dori dori circles!!!

cheers

abcent, glad you like. Hope the dorifto is good too.

Jon, slowly producing but the back has spat the dummy so I can't walk right now (lose the use of my left leg due to disc rupture crimping the nerve). usually takes a few days to sort out but I have plenty of stock to get bars out withing a week of ordering. Cheers.

TO HICAS OR NOT TO HICAS THAT IS THE QUESTION. OK. let me get this straight,if i replace the HICAS rack in a R33 GTR with

a HICAS LOCK BAR.

1. Will i loose power assist to the front wheels at low/parking speeds but it

will feel the same at higher speeds?

2. Will the HICAS warning light come on/stay on and require the warning light

bulb to be removed?

3. Which FEELS better for street driving HICAS OR LOCKED?

does anyone know the answers to this question ?

I thought this had been answered many times across the forum but:

1. No you won't lose power steer, it simply reverts to the slightly harder setting. Noticeable when cranking around a roundabout at about 50kmh. Fitting a set of castor adjustors in my case completely removed the effect and improved turn in dramatically.

2. Yes.

3. It depends. Some people shouldn't have a license and probably can't tell if the front or rear wheels do the steering on their car. Just about everyone else will get some benefit. If you ever get some oversteer at over 80 kmh (and it can happen even if not hooning, I came around a bend where some tool had tracked mud onto the road and had a brief moment in the GTR) you will find the rears turn in the direction of the slide creating a tank slapper effect. This has resulted in numerous loss of control situations.

Hope that helps.

  • 4 weeks later...
Next you need to remove the lock wiring on the rubber boots at each end, pull back the boots and then "crack off" the large 4 sided rod end so they are easier to remove later.

"crack off" is a term mechanics use to break the initial resistance a nut or bolt has. These are threaded but you may need a large mallet or bar to help if you aren't strong enough to get them to move.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...