Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm after a pair of good tyres in the next week to start getting the R32 on the road. Probably going to get Falken RT215's, but any other suggestions welcome.. Only need R16's so shouldn't be easier on the wallet. Budget is about $400

I've heard Brannigans are pretty good down here, are they good on prices as well?

Any other suggestions? or should I just pickup the yellowpages :D

cheers peepz..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58797-need-some-decent-tyres-goldcoast/
Share on other sites

Branigans are the option you take when you have 50 bux to your name and wire poking out of your tyres... Cheap and nasty... Good service though...

Avoid F1 at all costs...

I found BBS to be good in the past, but they forgot to mention to me that they had moved last time I booked the car in, so my business went elsewhere...

Federals are underrated IMO...

Have you tried using the club sponsor Bob janes

Be interesting what prices you get compared to other tyre shops

Put them to the test!!

Let us all know the results.

Do not bother with the Federals unless you want cheap

I have tried both 235/40/18 and 245/40/18

Do not have very good grip

I Have some very worn out doggy 255/45/17 Nankang on the rear now, and they have ALOT better grip then the Federal ever had

Both are cheap tyres

I am going to try the Falken st112 next or something pretty soft

I am sick lighting up the back every time I go to the local shop!

thanks so much guys..

jax or action tyres sound great and they're close as anything, would prefer somebody who knows turbo cars.. and doesn't try and just sell me whatever they'd stick on the nearest commodore. I will probably go down to them today.

I'll probably check out bob jane too.. although I'm not a member :Oops:

Had dodgy tyres on the R33 and I hated it near the end, I want some pretty good ones this time - especially seeing as this car is not going to be daily driven..

May as well do something useful..

Here are the contact details of all these places:

Austyre N' Wheel

447 Nerang-Southport Rd Ashmore QLD 4214

ph: (07) 5597 0099 Wheel Alignment & Balancing

Action Tyre Service

12 Price St Southport QLD 4215

ph: (07) 5532 4599 Tyres--Retail

Southport - Bob Jane T-Marts

168 Gold Coast Hwy

Southport QLD 4215

Australia

ph: (07) 55912655

JAX Tyres Brakes & Suspension

Take Advantage Of Our "No Hassle Guarantee"

Unit 3/ 45 Nind St Southport QLD 4215

ph: (07) 5503 1233 Tyres--Retail

Coomera Tyre World

172 Siganto Drv Oxenford QLD 4210

ph: (07) 5502 9100 Tyres--Retail

Branigans Budget Tyres

Shed 5/ 41 Egerton St Southport QLD 4215

ph: (07) 5571 1366 Tyres--Retail

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...