Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know that this question has been asked many times before and I've done a search and have gathered some information but I still need some more specifc stuff.

I know these differences:

R33 gts4:

Engine: Rb25DE

Diff ratio: 4.36

brakes: 4 pot simiseto front and 2 pot rear ???

Suspension not has tough as GTR, i.e. softer sway bars etc...

R33 GTR:

Engine: RB26DETT

Diff ratio: 4.11

brakes: brembo's all round

What I need to know is the following.

1) Are the gearboxes exactly the same, i.e. ratio's and gear set strength

2) Are the drive shafts the same strength

3) Although the diff ratios are different, are the diff strengths the same,

4) Does the 4wd ATTESA system act the same way in both cars, i.e. sampling rate, torque split etc

5) do the GTS4's have a 5 stud wheel pattern (I read somewhere that non-turbos have a 4 stud)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58859-differences-bn-r33-gts4-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

1) Are the gearboxes exactly the same, i.e. ratio's and gear set strength-Yes-gear ratios different

2) Are the drive shafts the same strength-no but close

3) Although the diff ratios are different, are the diff strengths the same, yes

4) Does the 4wd ATTESA system act the same way in both cars, i.e. sampling rate, torque split etc-no

5) do the GTS4's have a 5 stud wheel pattern (I read somewhere that non-turbos have a 4 stud) 5 stud

Ant, u sure about the 4 stud hubs???

Yep, pretty sure, though I heard rumours that late 97 - 98 (ie end of R33 production) models got 5 stud hubs on some random cars - probably a parts run-out thing.

I've got an HPI article which compared the R32 and R33 GTS4's and the brake types are mentioned, will dig that up and check.

1) Are the gearboxes exactly the same, i.e. ratio's and gear set strength-Yes-gear ratios different

2) Are the drive shafts the same strength-no but close

3) Although the diff ratios are different, are the diff strengths the same, yes

4) Does the 4wd ATTESA system act the same way in both cars, i.e. sampling rate, torque split etc-no

5) do the GTS4's have a 5 stud wheel pattern (I read somewhere that non-turbos have a 4 stud) 5 stud

Are you referring to R32, 33 or R34 GTS4's?

Yep, pretty sure, though I heard rumours that late 97 - 98 (ie end of R33 production) models got 5 stud hubs on some random cars - probably a parts run-out thing.

I've got an HPI article which compared the R32 and R33 GTS4's and the brake types are mentioned, will dig that up and check.

i am a dedicated High performance imports (HPI) reader and i have the issue u have just mentioned. the r32 had 4 pot calippers while the r33 had 2 pot calippers for the brakes. generally the r32 has the better things as it also has a turbo, the r33 gts-4 is n/a

I have a 95R33 GTS4 It did have 4 stud hubs and twin piston calipers on the front and single piston on rears. The rotors are smaller and the rears are solid. I have upgraded to the turbo breaks all round. The rear drive shafts are smaller in diameter to the turbo GTS and GTR ones.I have a set of GTST shafts that I will be installing soon they are 3mm bigger in dia. The attessa computer is the same as R33 gtr (the wiring is different between r32 and r33 GTR's. Transfer case is the same and gearbox is as strong however they have different ratios to GTR. It has a clutch set up the same as R32 GTR.

The suspension set up is different. The rear struts are the same as GTST and the front is different to both. I tried to put Vspec GTR struts in the front so I could lower it but it stayed the same height (strange) I believe the lower mount for the strut on a GTR sits 40mm lower. I ended up buying bilstein height adjustables :headspin: made to suit. Has a front sway bar but unsure of size (can measure if you want) but had no rear bar at all. I have one from a GTST that will fit but will be using whiteline anyway. The rear of the tailshaft has a universal jount the same as GTST, GTR is different It looks more like a CV. All front shafts are the same as far as I know. The sump is the same. No R33 GTS4 has hicas but from what I have heard it is no great loss anyway (saves on weight). The speedo is the same tacco redlines lower and does not have GTR written on it and the surround is black not carbon look. has a different shape climate control unit to GTR as the 3 centre gauges sit at the top and climate control is in the middle on GTR. I have installed these gauges which meant I had to buy thr GTR climate control as well.

The rest of the interiour is GTS.

I have an RB30 with forged internals all ready to assemble and go in After I spent a shit load of time making an adapter plate for the 4wd sump to bolt on. :headspin:

I bought a pair of Trust TD05H 18G turbos from Advan ready for the manifold to be made.

So you can see being NA did not bother me as I would have ditched the standard engine and turbo anyway. As the car only cost me 14k it allows me to spend a shitload on the engine/gearbox/clutch etc. Hopefully I should end up with a 10-11 sec daily driven Skyline for under 40K

Hope this info helps. Any other questions send me a pm.

Gilly.

I'm refering more to r33 gts4's and also the r34 gts4 (I know that they aren't many r34 4wd's around so info on them might be hard to come by) but thanks for all the info guys....

gilly, u reckon that the attessa system acts the same way as an R33/R34 non-vspec GTR but darkrams69 reckons they are different?? Anyway 100% sure????

Also, if I bolted an Rb26 into an r33/r34 gts4, can I leave the gearbox, and diff as is. I guess I could bolt the front gts4 diff (ratio 4.36) onto the rb26 and leave the rear one in place. Would this setup hold up or would it break?????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...